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03-19-2011, 02:27 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3
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Landing gear and slide outs won't work
After being left on our property for a few months, my husband decided to bring our rv back to our home. Mid way through the front jacks stopped working. Once he got it home, the front jacks, the slide outs, and the front lights wont' work. I have changed the 40 amp fuses in the fuse box and made sure there was enough water in the battery. The battery has been on charge over night. Is there a reset switch that can be reset? Does anyone have any suggestions at to what it might be. The test light shows the battery fully charged. It is very frustrating because is the camper is brand new.
Thanks
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03-19-2011, 03:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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What kind of test light shows percent of charge on a battery? I would do a good charge on the battery, let it "rest" for a day and then get a shop or autoparts store to load test it.
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03-19-2011, 04:32 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebandMeme
After being left on our property for a few months, my husband decided to bring our rv back to our home. Mid way through the front jacks stopped working. Once he got it home, the front jacks, the slide outs, and the front lights wont' work. I have changed the 40 amp fuses in the fuse box and made sure there was enough water in the battery. The battery has been on charge over night. Is there a reset switch that can be reset? Does anyone have any suggestions at to what it might be. The test light shows the battery fully charged. It is very frustrating because is the camper is brand new.
Thanks
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Were the 40 amp fuses blown???? The lights should be on a different circuit???? Using the slide or jack motors without a fully charged battery can damage them. There should be an in-line fuse near the landing gear also. (check that) Your battery may have a bad cell (if it was not fully charged and exposed to freezing temps) It may read 12v but drop off under a load as Bob mentioned above. It is a process of elimination starting with the condition of the battery. Good luck and let us know how you make out, Hank ....... Welcome to the forum.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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03-20-2011, 06:35 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego Il
Posts: 820
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Sorry for your issue with the camper. When raising the front legs did you have the truck connected to the 5er and running with the electrical cord, when trying to raise the legs? Did the battery sit in the camper when the 5er was in storage connected to the camper wiring? When in storage the battery should be disconnected, if not it will lose the stored energy in it. The battery is being drained by the electronics that are still using the 12V electrical power. Such as the Carbon monoxide detector, the LP gas detector and the entertainment display.
When we bought our first 5er the dealer instructed me that you should never rely on the coach battery to power the front legs motor and the motor for the slides. He instructed me to use either the truck battery with the engine running and the camper connected to the truck or shore power. This will insure that you are getting the full amperage to the motors as required. As they will require higher amperage rating then just the coach battery can supply when operated.
I would connect the shore power to the camper or connect the truck to the camper with the engine running. This will insure that you get full amperage to the motors and see if everything works correctly for you.
If not then you should look for damage wiring to the motors and or a failed inline fuse by the motors. These will need to be repaired. Also you may need to have the motors inspected to see if they were damage from low amperage being supplied to them. To resolve this issue.
Jim W.
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Jim & Jill
2010 318SAB Cougar
2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
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03-20-2011, 01:38 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7
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No one has mentioned checking and cleaning the battery terminals. Setting in storage for a time can result in a black hard coating to develop on the terminals and cable connectors. Scrape, sand, wire brush, to make sure connections and clean and bright. Coatings like this can even prevent vehicles from starting.
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03-20-2011, 03:58 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3
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Battery
All the fused have been checked including the in line fuse. My husband checked the battery it is not the battery and it is fully charged so i guess it is back to the dealer whenever we can get it there. Very frustrating!!!! Is there not a reset switch some where that will reset the system. I have checked all the GFI except for theone in the back because I can't get to it....
Thanks for all the replies I really appreciate. Will update when we find out what the issue is.
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03-20-2011, 04:12 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati,Oh.
Posts: 365
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What kind of camper is it, year and make? TT or Fiver?
__________________
2007 Dodge 2500 6.7 Megacab CTD 2011 Keystone Cougar 327RES
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03-20-2011, 04:20 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ludington, Michigan
Posts: 31
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No power
Hi make sure you check main battery cables were the wires are crimped to the ring terminals found mine very loose and pulled one off with my hand, just a thought Don
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03-21-2011, 09:27 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 3
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it was the remote resistor
It was the remote resister on the converter! How weird is that... Thanks guys for all the input. Now we gotta take it in because the won't just sell us the parts from the dealer!!!
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