2- or 4-point hitch?

[wegone]

I have the old hitch E2 1000 lb - 10K round bar that i towed my 2019 26RBIWE, never had an issue.

The new 20220 Radiance 21RB have very similar number, the only difference being the new trailer is 5 feet shorter and a hitch/tongue increase of 100 pounds more from 600 lbs to 700 lbs.

Would I be better off buying a 4-point equalizer 1000k - 10000k hitch?

The new trailer is higher up, I have scrapped the round bars a few times.

[chuckster57]

IMHO the equalizer E4 is the best for the money.

[wegone]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

IMHO the equalizer E4 is the best for the money.

Yes, after reading up on hitches, that was the one I liked the most, I guess the question I have is will I notice much difference, improvement between the it and what I have now?

I know I can install it, but 700 bucks is still 700 bucks

[chuckster57]

I’ve had fivers since 1989 so I don’t have experience using it. Going by what customers have said over the years.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by Island Eddie

I have the old hitch E2 1000 lb - 10K round bar that i towed my 2019 26RBIWE, never had an issue.

The new 20220 Radiance 21RB have very similar number, the only difference being the new trailer is 5 feet shorter and a hitch/tongue increase of 100 pounds more from 600 lbs to 700 lbs.

Would I be better off buying a 4-point equalizer 1000k - 10000k hitch?

The new trailer is higher up, I have scrapped the round bars a few times.

In theory, you don't need any WDH with that trailer and truck combo. There's a fairly lengthy thread on another forum now discussing this topic. Personally, I would never go without one, unless it's a quick 2 mile run to get my trailer out of storage.

I've only ever had the Equal-i-Zer 4 point and never had any issues. A buddy uses the E2 on a smaller 6K trailer and he's also never had an issue. For me it's piece of mind. I don't think a particular WDH is going to give you a better towing experience 99.5% of the time. It's the other .5% (high cross winds, emergency maneuver etc.) where I would want the better option, which would be the 4 point.

[Balvar24]

I'd probably try what I had and see if I still liked it.

I have the 4 point, but had never owned a WDH before, so I spent the extra for piece of mind.

[revrusty]

I have the Blue Ox wdh and have been very pleased with it. When we travel out west in the fall for our bird hunt, usually to Montana we always encounter some cross winds somewhere along the way. This was a massive upgrade from the 2 point hitch we had before. The 4 point may be even better but you might give this one some consideration as well.

[foldbak]

Originally Posted by Island Eddie

I have the old hitch E2 1000 lb - 10K round bar that i towed my 2019 26RBIWE, never had an issue.

The new 20220 Radiance 21RB have very similar number, the only difference being the new trailer is 5 feet shorter and a hitch/tongue increase of 100 pounds more from 600 lbs to 700 lbs.

Would I be better off buying a 4-point equalizer 1000k - 10000k hitch?

The new trailer is higher up, I have scrapped the round bars a few times.

Your trailer is only 7700 GVW and 26' overall length so your 2500 won't know it's back there.....until a semi passes you. I wouldn't be so concerned with weight distribution as I would sway control.



I used this Anderson on my last trailer, Cougar 27SAB @ 32' and 8800 GVW and it was amazing compared to my Husky which had duel sway bars. Well worth the money! Zero sway!

https://www.campingworld.com/anderse...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[CedarCreekWoody]

I doubt you would see a difference. Try what you have first.

[Retired Copper]

I have used the E2 and E4 both on the same trailer first with a F150 then a F250. there was a night and day difference. The E4 and the F250 was as good as a solid tow as I have ever experience. Heck I would even let the wife tow that combo it was that good.

[Balvar24]

Originally Posted by Retired Copper

I have used the E2 and E4 both on the same trailer first with a F150 then a F250. there was a night and day difference. The E4 and the F250 was as good as a solid tow as I have ever experience. Heck I would even let the wife tow that combo it was that good.

You used both the E2 and E4 with the F150and could tell a difference? How so? Thanks.

[Max23]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I doubt you would see a difference. Try what you have first.

I totally agree. 700 bucks is a lot of money to me for overkill. But, it's your money not mine. LOL

[JRTJH]

I'd also recommend that you "use what you have and see how it performs with your specific two vehicle/trailer combination". EVERY rig will perform slightly differently from other combinations.

That said, if you've only towed with the E-2 system, you have virtually no experience with whether that system performs below, above or similar to the E-4 system, so it's more or less based on what you know from your past experience. In other words, you won't know what you don't know....

I can't begin to list the number of people I've talked to that have experience towing ONE rig, who have NO COMPARISON with how any other rig tows, so they, almost always will tell you that their rig tows "great" unless they have had some significant issue that they couldn't resolve. It's only after they get behind the wheel of a different combination of equipment that they realize the difference. That's when they will say, "WOW, what an improvement" or "Hmmm, this hitch doesn't give me the improvement I was expecting and I can't justify the expense"....

In short, the only way you're going to know if the E-4 will perform better "WITH YOUR RIG" is to do a comparison test. The experiences of someone else with a different tow vehicle or a different trailer model won't reflect the performance you'll see with your rig. To be honest, even loading your trailer differently will affect the way either hitch performs with your rig.

Generally, most people will see a marked improvement in sway control when using the E-4 hitch compared to the E-2 hitch, but there are some "heavy duty vehicles with "almost perfect towing characteristics" who will tell you, "Hell, my trailer tows the same with either hitch", but those people are few and far between.....

As an example, I had an E-2 hitch with two "sway bar clamps" on a 1999 F250 SuperDuty towing a 38' Holiday Rambler travel trailer. NOTHING i did would reduce the sway above about 60 MPH. I switched to an E-4 hitch and completely eliminated my sway problems. Previous to that, I towed a 26' Airstream with the E-2 hitch on that same truck and NEVER had any sway issues. Different rigs will perform differently, regardless of the hitch installed.

[sourdough]

I would personally recommend the Equalizer 4 point. I've tried 2 point and it was sorely lacking (it had the add on friction bars on each side), and that was on a trailer about the same length as the Radiance but with a 1000lbs. less gvwr. I had too many white knuckle moments to count and dumped it.

Having a 3/4 ton truck helps the stability a lot but it still does not eliminate the need for the sway control....when you need it, you need it. I live in W TX where the wind always blows and thought I would pull my bumper pull to the dealer 55 miles away - bad idea. Felt solid until the winds kicked up on the return home, from the driver's side, and kept me fighting all the way home every time anything passed by me - didn't do that anymore. Moral of the story to me; it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. No matter the combo at some point you will hit circumstances that maximum sway control will come to benefit you if you travel enough - and having it sitting there waiting to help doesn't hurt one bit vs not having it IMO.

[wegone]

WOW.....

So grateful you guys, such awesome replies

I tow slow, I'm sure I've had a few fingers pointed at me that I missed.
And now that I see you can squeeze the brake controller, if need be, to assist over the set gain, that helps me to know I have one other tool in the event I need it.
I had one event coming back from Yellowstone last year where I drove into a 40 to 60 mile stretch on crosswind hitting my starboard side.
Guessing here it was 20-40 MPG with gust, as the trees were bending pretty good. It was heading west up I-90 from the Columbia River basin to Ellensburg.
Now that was with the Bullet, spread axles, and I never felt iffy at all.
Even thinking back to that day, I believe now I was a little too nonchalant and ignorant to the fact at just how quickly you can lose control in certain situations.

To error on caution has always seemed to me to be the better of two choices.... except in choosing women, take the chance on wild ride, don't ask me how I know

[Robear]

I just switched over to the 10k equalizer and it’s made a big difference. $700 is a lot of money , so I searched on Offer up and Craigslist and found a barely used set for $350. I was surprised how many used 10k and 12k sets were for sale. make sure all the parts are included. If there are parts missing, you can buy them on equalizer’s website.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Island Eddie

...
And now that I see you can squeeze the brake controller, if need be, to assist over the set gain, that helps me to know I have one other tool in the event I need it.
...

Depending on your specific tow vehicle, some OEM brake controllers incorporate the vehicle ABS, anti-skid and anti-sway systems in trailer sway conditions. Specifically, the 2011-2016 SuperDuty OEM brake controller is one that does that. In the 2011 SuperDuty owner's manual, on page 257 you'll find this:

" The sliding lever on the TBC should be used only for manual
activation of trailer brakes to assist with proper adjustment of the
GAIN. Misuse, such as application during trailer sway, could cause
instability of trailer and/or tow vehicle."

So, what "we all learned about controlling trailer sway" back in the days of the Hayes and Bendix controller days is "bad advice for todays sophisticated brake control systems".....

[wegone]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Depending on your specific tow vehicle, some OEM brake controllers incorporate the vehicle ABS, anti-skid and anti-sway systems in trailer sway conditions. Specifically, the 2011-2016 SuperDuty OEM brake controller is one that does that. In the 2011 SuperDuty owner's manual, on page 257 you'll find this:

" The sliding lever on the TBC should be used only for manual
activation of trailer brakes to assist with proper adjustment of the
GAIN. Misuse, such as application during trailer sway, could cause
instability of trailer and/or tow vehicle."

So, what "we all learned about controlling trailer sway" back in the days of the Hayes and Bendix controller days is "bad advice for todays sophisticated brake control systems".....

THANK YOU SIR