&@&$!&& auto level!!! (Again)

[Javi]

Some of y'all are comparing Apples to Oranges...

Full frame to 1/2 ton towable frame..

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by Javi

Some of y'all are comparing Apples to Oranges...

Full frame to 1/2 ton towable frame..

Is there a difference in the travel trailers?

[Javi]

Originally Posted by wrvond

Is there a difference in the travel trailers?

Absolutely, look at the weight of comparably sized trailers.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Are being on the level with us? Sorry, I just can't help myself.

yes …given it to you straight

[wrvond]

Originally Posted by Javi

Absolutely, look at the weight of comparably sized trailers.

I figured the weight difference was found in the roof, floor and counter tops mostly. Plastic faucets vs. metal, plastic sinks and toilets vs. ceramic. That sort of thing. Pretty much assumed the TT frames were all eight inch or similar.
Learn something new every day!

[TimC]

I thought the issues were behind me, but I guess not.

First, the tip suggested by Javi of making sure I’m nose high has worked every time. No crazy auto level since doing that. In fact, it’s worked flawlessly up until the last couple leveling attempts.

Second, I took a much closer look at the exterior door. I think that issue was mainly caused by the latch plate (or whatever it’s called) being installed so the door latch was incredibly close to the top of the opening. When leveled it seem to flex the trailer just a hair so the latch just fit in the hole (barely) and when not leveled a tiny amount of the latch was too high for the hole. I just re-positioned that plate and all is well.

Now on to the newest problem. When I auto level the system is working (sorta). The front jacks extend and do all the leveling (front to back and side to side)--at least on my driveway where side to side level is pretty good. But, the rear jacks are not extending at all. The system seems to think the jacks are going down as everything completes successfully, even the “verify ground” part. Funny thing is I can see the rear jacks extend just a bit when it does the verify ground step. But, it will complete “successfully” with both rear jacks not even close to the ground. Once the auto level completes I’m able to go into manual mode and lower the rear jacks to the ground with no issues, so they are definitely still connected to the system and seem to work fine other than during auto level.

I spent a couple hours on the phone with Lippert over the weekend and so far they’re stumped. Since it was the weekend there was minimal support so the guy I talked to is supposed to be checking with some colleagues and getting back to me. In the mean time, I thought it’d be worth checking here to see if anyone has any ideas. I’m thinking control board is shot.

If anyone has any thoughts I’d be interested in hearing them. Either way I’ll post updates as I learn more from Lippert.

I will also say that so far I’m happy with the support from Lippert.

[Stircrazy]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I’m with Chuck on this one. All the times I have talked to tech support, I was told best to be plugged into shore or TV with engine running. One test is to use battery only and monitor voltage with volt meter watching to make sure it never dipped below 12.0VDC.

ya if the told me that I would tell them to come get there crap equipment. for the record I love my ground controle three and I have never used it while being plugged in. I think they say that because they know most people use there RV's the same as they come off the lot and don't know how crappy the battery dealers sell the units with are. so yes if you go out in the bush with the one standard battery set up the dealer gave you then you could have power issues. when you have upgraded to two 6V or four and have solar you will never see power caused issues unless somthing else goes wrong.

[TimC]

Another update on this. I actually have not talked to Lippert again yet, will probably call them sometime next week to give them an update.

I was poking around in the underbelly to tie my lithium batteries into the 12v system better and investigate how hard it’d be to install some heat cable on the pipes in the underbelly (decided not to bother for now). While I was in there I noticed that the front sensor for the auto level system wasn’t really secured all that well. There was a metal bracket connected to the front of the frame. The bracket had a self tapping metal screw through one of the holes that also went into the plastic bracket of the sensor. But, the sensor was mainly just set on top of that screw. I think it held it good enough that the sensor wasn’t sliding all over the underbelly, but definitely was not secure. I also discovered a cut in the underbelly right next to the sensor (assuming from factory installing it) that was allowing a lot of water in.

So, in the process of poking around in there I secured the sensor much better (I screwed both sides of the sensor into the bracket). I also sealed the underbelly much better. Actually added some coroplast and reflectix I had laying around. Used some underbelly tape to seal up any cuts and edges as well.

I’m not sure if securing the front sensor much better solved my issues or if just having the power completely disconnected reset everything (I had all power off for a couple hours), but so far everything seems to be working well again. My rear jacks are again coming down during auto level, and auto level has been working flawlessly again (after I reset the zero point). I suspect the power being off for so long is the main thing that got the rear jacks working again, but I’m sure that sensor being secured so terribly before played a big role in the weird issues I was seeing. Either way, I’m glad everything seems to be working again.

[chuckster57]

If the sensors aren’t “solid” they play havoc with the system. If there are cuts in the coroplast it wasn’t done by Lippert. They sell the system and the manufacturer installs it.

[foldbak]

When I bought my 2018 cougar the self leveling system was all jacked up. It took a couple months to figure out that they ran out of the proper size screws that mount the sensors to the frame. They use larger screws which cracked the plastic and the sensors were just dangling. Once the sensors were properly secured it worked perfectly