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01-24-2012, 08:17 AM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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I agree with Hank. As I read through the thread, I thought about pressure buildup within the discharge plumbing between the dump valves and the end cap. With short runs, it'd probably be very insignificant, but with the plumbing runs on some RV's, there could be 10 or more gallons of "space" within that exterior plumbing and that could build up a good head of pressure in some situations. I have always traded my end cap out for one with a garden hose fitting on it (some places allow draining gray water onto the ground). With your pressure buildup "spray problem", you may benefit from one of these end caps. Just install it upside down (with the garden hose fitting on the top rather than the bottom) and crack the garden hose fitting cap to relieve any pressure in that space before removing the cap. Like others have suggested, I'd still use a bucket or old dish pan under the cap before removing it if there's any history of leaking. As for the storage tanks, all of them are vented through the roof (except fresh water) so if the vents are not clogged, there's no pressure buildup behind the dump valves (inside the tanks). If there is pressure building up in a tank, it needs to be looked at pretty soon. The last thing any of us need is a split black tank as we walk out of the rest area building in the middle of "nowhere"... What a "suprise" that would be.....
I'd suggest against drilling holes in the end cap for 2 reasons. In some areas you must be able to completely seal that fitting or you may get a ticket, but more important, I think, you need to maintain some moisture in the outside plumbing to maintain soft rubber seals. If you drill holes in the end cap or leave it off of the connection, in a dry area (desert, etc) you could dry out your seals and have an even bigger problem trying to prevent leakage. I'd suggest keeping the plumbing outside the holding tanks sealed with end caps in place to prevent damage to the dump valve seals.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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01-24-2012, 02:23 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: calif
Posts: 193
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Thats the idea I was looking for just crack the garden hose
cap a little, no need to drill a hole in it don't know why that
didn't come to mine when I was thinking of drilling a hole in it
Thats whats good about this forum always good
suggestions
thanks JRTJH
__________________
2500HD Chev 6.0
2011 326MKS Cougar
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01-25-2012, 09:57 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 422
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I'm on the don't do that venting thing side. I like seals, and leftovers in tank, to not dry out.
Note most valve lube is coconut oil, but I've found olive oil works better. After winterizing with antifreeze I put a cup of olive oil into each tank. and also pour some on toilet seal. Sure works good for us.
__________________
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Australian Shepherd
2010 Ford Expedition TV
2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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01-26-2012, 03:33 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Woodstock, Ga.
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck&gail
I'm on the don't do that venting thing side. I like seals, and leftovers in tank, to not dry out.
Note most valve lube is coconut oil, but I've found olive oil works better. After winterizing with antifreeze I put a cup of olive oil into each tank. and also pour some on toilet seal. Sure works good for us.
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Ok, ya got me on this one. How do you find that olive oil works better? Please tell me/us what the difference is and btw, I had know idea that coconut oil was even used, lol.
Thanks for the info.
Bo
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01-27-2012, 08:37 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado Mountains
Posts: 422
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Ok, why olive oil. Started with just antifreeze many years ago. Left some on top of toilet seal. Toilet seal stuck come spring. I got it working, but it was worrysome. Asked dealer, he gave me valve lube. Read ingrediants, coconut oil. It did seem to work on toilet and waste tank vales, smoother operation when dewinterizing. Coconuts are a pain to milk, so I tried corn oil. Worked just as good. Did that for years.
In 2010 bought a toyhauler leftover at a good price. Toilet did not hold water, even after sitting with corn oil on top for weeks. Guess I'll need to replace seal, grumble grumble. Asked wife what was a more expensive oil like coconut oil. She said her extra virgin olive oil was very expensive, so I tried it on toilet seal. Problem fixed in a week by letting maybe 1/2 cup sit on top of seal! I now use normal olive oil to lube waste tanks, and toilet, seals. No sense wasting extra virgins. Oh and toilet seal has held water fine ever since. Only a few years so far, but seems to make waste valves easier to operate also.
Trial and error sometimes works.
__________________
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Australian Shepherd
2010 Ford Expedition TV
2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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01-27-2012, 10:18 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
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Howdy All;
On small bit of trivia;
Wooden wine casks will normaly have about 2 or 3 liters of Olive Oil in them.
It floats on top of the wine and coats the inside of the barrel so it won't dry out and allow the wine to turn to vinigar.
hankaye
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Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...
Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
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