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Old 09-09-2021, 09:52 AM   #21
Mikelff
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Have the same on my 5er. It helps to lube the inside rail that the frame slides on. Makes sliding tire back and forth much easier. I think it even says to lube it in the owners manual. Had the same problem with the bolt. Had to replace mine as it stripped trying to get it out. Greased it and easy to remove.
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Old 09-09-2021, 11:14 AM   #22
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I made an aluminum holder for my trailer aid and used stainless hose clamps to attach it to the crossbars. Just got back from a trip to the western U.P. from southeast Michigan and everything stayed put. Frees up space for other less worthy stuff! LOL 😆
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Old 09-09-2021, 11:54 AM   #23
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I had the "not so brilliant idea" to put my blue tank on the rails. It's a 30 gallon tank, fit the rails, but I thought it was a bit too snug and I didn't want the wheels to push against the coroplast and rub holes in them and the fresh water tank, that's located just above where the wheels were pushing. So, I took it back off the rack and put it back in the truck bed, forward of the hitch.... I'm guessing if I had a 20 or 25 gallon blue tank (the old style without a wagon handle) it probably would have worked without rubbing the coroplast.

Just another idea of what else might fit on the rack along with the tire.

I also mounted my spare so the valve stem is pointing down. That way, I can lay on a creeper and slide under the trailer to check tire pressure without having to remove the bolt and pull the rack out... Thinking back, that's probably why the dang bolt rusted and the plastic handle broke LOL
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Old 09-09-2021, 01:21 PM   #24
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Showed it to the hubs and he is intrigued. We carry 2 spares and this might make it very easy. He's looking into it. Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2021, 03:53 PM   #25
Mr Mojo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I've had my BAL spare rack installed for about 8 years now. The only suggestion I'd add to "get one, they're great" is to make sure you keep some grease on the threads of the retaining screw. It's actually a 9/16" bolt with that plastic knob molded to the head of the bolt. Over the years, mine "corroded tight" around the threads. I broke the plastic knob trying to get it free. Once the knob was fully removed, I used a crescent wrench to remove the bolt.

I cleaned it up with a wire brush and "dunked it in "Sticky red bearing grease". Now, it's easy to remove with a wrench, no corrosion on the threads and the locking pin still keeps it from vibrating out....

I keep thinking I ought to order a new retaining screw, but, so far, between forgetting to try to find one and using the wrench, I just haven't seen the "priority need to replace what works'....

Anyway, if you've got the BAL tire rack, take a look at your retaining screw. No need to remove it, just turn it a turn once in a while to keep the threads from getting "sticky"....
Had the same problem with mine.
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Old 09-09-2021, 04:41 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I've had my BAL spare rack installed for about 8 years now. The only suggestion I'd add to "get one, they're great" is to make sure you keep some grease on the threads of the retaining screw. It's actually a 9/16" bolt with that plastic knob molded to the head of the bolt. Over the years, mine "corroded tight" around the threads. I broke the plastic knob trying to get it free. Once the knob was fully removed, I used a crescent wrench to remove the bolt.

I cleaned it up with a wire brush and "dunked it in "Sticky red bearing grease". Now, it's easy to remove with a wrench, no corrosion on the threads and the locking pin still keeps it from vibrating out....

I keep thinking I ought to order a new retaining screw, but, so far, between forgetting to try to find one and using the wrench, I just haven't seen the "priority need to replace what works'....

Anyway, if you've got the BAL tire rack, take a look at your retaining screw. No need to remove it, just turn it a turn once in a while to keep the threads from getting "sticky"....
I added mine 3 years ago because my spare was in the pass thru. Small enough rig and storage as it is. It wasn't hard to install and it works great. But, thanks for the idea of greasing the threads. Anyone come up with a better safety clip yet?
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:32 PM   #27
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I added mine 3 years ago because my spare was in the pass thru. Small enough rig and storage as it is. It wasn't hard to install and it works great. But, thanks for the idea of greasing the threads. Anyone come up with a better safety clip yet?
I don't know how much "better" these are, but they're a heck of a lot easier to get on and off the bolt. I've been using them on "Remove before flight" pins for years and they've always worked when expected and never "gone missing"...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7FNXV1...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:42 PM   #28
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I don't know how much "better" these are, but they're a heck of a lot easier to get on and off the bolt. I've been using them on "Remove before flight" pins for years and they've always worked when expected and never "gone missing"...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7FNXV1...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
That'll work, thank you very much!
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:46 AM   #29
anthonbloom
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Alternate Mounting

I had to move the spare from the rear bumper of my 2012 SAB 5th wheel after the bouncing caused the welds to the frame to let go and tore holes in the bumper. My solution was to mount the spare between the front legs using a tongue jack with a foot modified to pivot through the tire center mounted on a custom rack with 2" square tubing resting on top of the chassis rails inside the front cargo compartment. A 3/4" nut welded to the jack allows me to lower the spare with my impact wrench and has worked fine for the last 3 years. Very little loss of space and simple to operate.
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Old 09-22-2021, 01:32 PM   #30
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Did something similar but used a spare tire winch for a Ford dually. Mounted it in the front storage compartment on top of an 1/8” steel plate and cut a hole in the floor for the cable and hanger. 1/4” drive fits into the winch and a drill drops it and will pull it up but I finish with a ratchet to snug it up.

Figured it would work, the spare hasn’t fallen off my truck in 20 years. I have to add a 6’ section of 1 1/2”aluminum square tube to keep it from touching the aux LP gas line.
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Old 09-22-2021, 01:33 PM   #31
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The photos are sideways turn to the right.
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Old 09-22-2021, 02:15 PM   #32
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Figured it would work, the spare hasn’t fallen off my truck in 20 years. I have to add a 6’ section of 1 1/2”aluminum square tube to keep it from touching the aux LP gas line.
Funny you mentioned that!
Had a '04 Ford F250 work truck, heard a noise then the rear of the truck seemed jump up for a second, looked in the mirror to see the spare upright rolling towards the ditch, it had never been lowered, the cable was extremely frayed & finally broke, Ford replaced the carrier free of charge. Fortunately for me, Ford & everyone else I was on a desolate dirt county road & not on the interstate.
So the 1st sentence in the above quote is something I can't claim!
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Old 09-22-2021, 04:12 PM   #33
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Funny you mentioned that!
Had a '04 Ford F250 work truck, heard a noise then the rear of the truck seemed jump up for a second, looked in the mirror to see the spare upright rolling towards the ditch, it had never been lowered, the cable was extremely frayed & finally broke, Ford replaced the carrier free of charge. Fortunately for me, Ford & everyone else I was on a desolate dirt county road & not on the interstate.
So the 1st sentence in the above quote is something I can't claim!
First on an 01 to 16 and the second on a 2013 to today. I do check from time to time. I’ve heard of this type failing.
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