leaking water heater

BigBearRick · 04-12-2021, 07:57 AM

Ugh, a newbie PDI error. I purchased my used 2018 Sprinter Campfire at the start of winter. The dealer had already winterized and it was delivered right to my seasonal summer spot already closed up for winter. So my PDI was a bit limited.

Well, after getting everything de-winterized, I have noticed a very slow dip coming from the socket the anode rod screws in to. I've confirmed its not from the threads (i did use plumbers tape), but from the connection that holds the socket onto the heater tank. And a neighbor pointed out all the silicon build up on the heaters edge suggesting it had been an issue for awhile. Sadly, I did not catch seeing all that build up or I would have asked the dealer about it.

So my question is, as i have no warranty left on this - is this repairable? I'm kinda' thinking no.

I have asked the dealer if he will sell me a replacement at cost, and I may upgrade to a tankless as their doesn't seem to be a big difference in cost.

thanks

notanlines · 04-12-2021, 08:15 AM

Rick, I'm afraid I can't help you much on repairing the existing, but I can say that you probably have a 6 gal water heater, pretty small for your size RV. About $300 online. You might measure things to see if you possibly could fit a 12 gallon in its place. I believe in the $360 range online.

bobbecky · 04-12-2021, 09:00 AM

I had to replace our water heater some years ago, due to a leak. It isn't something that can be repaired because the tank is steel and glass lined. Ours was leaking from a weld where the burner tube is welded to the main tank. Replacement wasn't too difficult, maybe 3 hours by myself. At the time, I also investigated installing a tankless unit, but accessing the rear of one of these units to perform the annual recommended maintenance was not possible, so went with the exact same unit that was in original. This is a photo of the tank with the foam insulation removed.

BigBearRick · 04-12-2021, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbecky

I had to replace our water heater some years ago, due to a leak. ....... I also investigated installing a tankless unit, but accessing the rear of one of these units to perform the annual recommended maintenance was not possible, so went with the exact same unit that was in original. This is a photo of the tank with the foam insulation removed.

Thanks! .. yeah, I didn't have much hope of a repair option. I am lucky that I can access the rear -it is completely open from under my sink. I just need to decide how easily I can fit under there, or hire a thinner installer

mikec557 · 04-12-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBearRick

Ugh, a newbie PDI error. I purchased my used 2018 Sprinter Campfire at the start of winter. The dealer had already winterized and it was delivered right to my seasonal summer spot already closed up for winter. So my PDI was a bit limited.

Well, after getting everything de-winterized, I have noticed a very slow dip coming from the socket the anode rod screws in to. I've confirmed its not from the threads (i did use plumbers tape), but from the connection that holds the socket onto the heater tank. And a neighbor pointed out all the silicon build up on the heaters edge suggesting it had been an issue for awhile. Sadly, I did not catch seeing all that build up or I would have asked the dealer about it.

So my question is, as i have no warranty left on this - is this repairable? I'm kinda' thinking no.

I have asked the dealer if he will sell me a replacement at cost, and I may upgrade to a tankless as their doesn't seem to be a big difference in cost.

thanks

Rick, I've had only 3 Rvs. Bought them all new. I can say each one of them had/have that huge amount of silicone I see in your pics. I think it's there to prevent water from entering your wall thickness when you 1) drain your tank to winterize it, 2) drain and flush out your tank for annual anod inspection, and 3) when, hopefully it never happens, your pressure relief valve opens because the tank is too hot. All that water runs down there and the last thing you want is any of that water getting into your wall.

Are you sure your drip is from the threaded piece welded to the tank? It could be a slow drip from the pressure relief valve dripping onto the threaded part. I'd use a hair dryer to dry the entire thing and then watch like a hawk to see the where the first drip forms.

BigBearRick · 04-13-2021, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikec557

Rick, I've had only 3 Rvs. Bought them all new. I can say each one of them had/have that huge amount of silicone I see in your pics. I............I'd use a hair dryer to dry the entire thing and then watch like a hawk to see the where the first drip forms.

Thanks Mike - that does make sense, as draining the unit shure would fill it with water. And I will double check the leak with a dryer - It actually stopped this weekend!. There was a lot of grit in the threads, I thought I got it all out, but just a bit left could be causing this.

bobbecky · 04-13-2021, 01:23 PM

What I do when changing the anode is I chase the threads in the tank with a tap, not cutting threads but just clearing crud from them. I use a 3/4”-14 tapered pipe tap, and then several layers of Teflon tape and tighten the anode good and tight and you will never have a leak.

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