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Old 01-07-2021, 10:42 AM   #41
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by Stircrazy View Post
thats the Cdn price adjustment if I order LifePO4 cells here to build two 280ah batteries it will cost me 1899.00 if I order then in the US after the conversion to Cdn it will be about 1000.00 . we get hosed on pretty much everything.

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Old 01-07-2021, 02:47 PM   #42
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IMO the Self Contained OEM RV style outlets are junk. They meet the NEC standard but the amount of actual surface contact the wires make with the spring clips is marginal at best....

The industry uses these because they are quick to install and get the job done.. sometimes... IF the person using the SCD tool to install the wires into this type of outlet isn't experienced or doesn't check his work then you end up with a 120 volt AC outlet that may fail due to intermittent or no connection problem down the road

Additionally.. with many folks running inside space heaters and lots of high wattage appliances like an instapot, toaster, crock pot, hair dryer the outlet is drawing a lot of current with marginal surface contact at the wire to spring clamping feature on the back of the SC style outlet.

A simple low cost upgrade for all your 120 volt AC outlets would be to remove the SC style RV outlet and install in its place a "Old Work Box" SHALLOW style outlet box with a new 120 volt AC receptacle using the style with screws on the side to attach the wires.

This will give you an outlet that can safely and reliably draw current and wont vibrate loose after towing down less than stellar roads.

I've done this with my 2014 Alpine even though none of the OEM SC style outlets had caused any issues. I immediately noticed the outlet in the kitchen my wife uses for her appliances is much cooler to the touch..

I also removed the OEM fireplace and replaced that outlet as well.. a bit more work to remove the fireplace but worth the effort

The pieces and parts needed to upgrade your SC style RV outlets can be found at any Lowes or Home Depot or ordered on line

Old Work Shallow Box:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...RSWR/202077341

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-Ga...l-Box/50425678

***There are a few other style "Old Work Shallow" single gang boxes that may suit your particular RV better then the ones I've shown but these worked fine for my application

Replacement 120 volt 15 amp outlet:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-ECP/301361472

You can buy the outlets in bulk ( ten per pack) and save a bit... I bought bulk

Images of a typical OEM SC style RV outlet.. you can see there was minimal contact and one pic it looks like the spring clamp didn't penetrate the wire insulation at all

If you have some basic electrical skills this is an easy task to complete and will assure you that your RV 120 volt AC outlets are safer and more reliable..

And of course.. safety is paramount. Disconnect shore power or kill the 120 volt AC breaker on the outlets your going to work on
Chuck,
Thanks for your post. I was planning on doing this upgrade in the spring but when I went to my regular Home Depot I couldn't find the boxes. Following your link I see there is another location not far away that has them in stock.
Phil
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Old 01-08-2021, 12:21 AM   #43
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Hey Chuck,
Thanks for posting about self contained receptacles. I'm not an Electrician, but I've been interested in electrical wiring my whole life. I never knew that these cheap self contained receptacles existed. Automotive wiring has a similar connector some folks call a "Vampire Clip". This piece of crap cuts through the insulation just like the SC receptacles and they are always trouble. Especially when used in a high current application. They are quick and easy to install, but usually don't last. Numerous times I've had to remove these quickie vampire clips and replace them with a crimped and soldered connector.
I'm going to plug in a space heater into each one of my outlets and see if any one of them gets hot.
Thanks again for the great advice!
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Old 01-08-2021, 05:26 AM   #44
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"I'm going to plug in a space heater into each one of my outlets and see if any one of them gets hot."

That may work fine but be aware that it doesn't indicate it won't be an issue the next time you plug it in. A little wiggle of the outlet when you pull out the plug could cause an issue the next time you use it. The "earthquake" of driving down the road can cause issues "out of the blue" as well.
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Old 01-08-2021, 06:19 AM   #45
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This guy cuts apart the 2 receptacles and shows the difference between commercial and residential.
https://youtu.be/kX6xnOksQTc
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Old 01-08-2021, 09:15 AM   #46
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Really good video.. thanks for finding this and posting it..
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Old 01-08-2021, 05:39 PM   #47
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ChuckS, great advice!! This past Thursday I had to remove the fireplace on our 2019 Cougar 32RLI to replace the control board. I was surprised to find the receptacle was the normal RV type but was mounted in a scrap piece of paneling secured to the side wall just hanging there by one screw. It is now replaced with a "normal" receptacle, using the side screws and mounted to the floor in a proper box.
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Old 01-10-2021, 04:59 AM   #48
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I had a problem on my 2004 Cedar creek with my gfi circuit. It was the 2nd outlet in the line. When I took it out, contact was bad and there were burn marks probably from arcing. I replaced it with a standard outlet and shallow box. Now all work downline. I didn't replace the rest of them, but I do carry several with me in case there are more issues. I might get around to doing it one day, but at the time I had other issues that needed my attention more.
First off, Thanks Chuck for starting this post. You've brought up a real issue judging from the number of comments.
And Dallas, you've brought in another important consideration. The GFCI circuits. I seem to recall a post once from Gary Bunzer, "The RV Dr." who we lost to Covid-19 last year that the GFCI's that are used in RV's are really junk and the source of many circuit issues. His suggestion was when you get a new camper to always just replace the GFCI outlets right off.

As to the push in clip connections on outlets, yes junk and replace either all at once or as issues crop up (I recommend all at once).

I own a small four unit apartment house that was converted to apts. in the 90's. Over the last 4 or 5 years I have had to replace at least a half dozen outlets with the push in connections that have loosened up and caused connection issues. These apartments don't bounce down the road but there is minute vibrations in a/c circuits from the alternating current and the connection will loosen up. I had one two weeks ago that the white wire had come completely out of the outlet.

Good advice to replace all outlets with screw down connections. Safety now and less troubleshooting down the road when all the outlets in a daisy chain fail.
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Old 01-16-2021, 02:36 PM   #49
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This image is from a group member in another group.. it is for his residential fridge.. note the black wire has hardly any contact at all.. junk SC outlet .. fire hazard.. etc
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Old 01-17-2021, 01:32 PM   #50
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Alpine owner on another group is replacing his OEM self contained outlets... here is another one he found.. this was outlet for his microwave
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:47 AM   #51
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Finally started planning this mod and now I am stuck finding all the material I need to complete the job.

I have 2 locations with self contained receptacles (that I have found so far) that only have about 1.5" of depth behind the wall/cabinet. The old work boxes referenced earlier in this thread are too deep at 2".

The camper came with a GFCI receptacle in the bathroom that is also installed in a shallow depth wall of about 1.5". Keystone used a shallow old work box similar to this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-B...-UPC/100404058
but with flip up tabs to anchor it to the thin wall and then used a black surface mount box extender the same size as the face plate to finish it off. The result is this receptacle protrudes about 3/4" out from the wall. This is okay for the 2 locations where I need to replace receptacles.

Problem is I can't find a shallow box with flip up tabs or a surface mount extender with outside dimensions of a face plate. I have tried looking at Home Depot, Lowes and a local electrical supply house with no success. Local CW was no help and Keystone says they don't do retail sales.

Looking for assistance from the forum in locating a supplier. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2021, 11:27 AM   #52
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Try these https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-.../dp/B000H5SWT4 They are 1.25" deep. You'll need to use screws to attach them to the wall, but they are shallow enough.
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:56 PM   #53
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Try these https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-.../dp/B000H5SWT4 They are 1.25" deep. You'll need to use screws to attach them to the wall, but they are shallow enough.
Thanks John, but those are the same as in the link I posted. What I need looks like that but has the tabs that flip out to lock it on the back of the lauan panel. The front mounting holes on these are so close the edge that I worry that the screws will pull out when I pull a plug out of the receptacle. I could glue a wood strip to the back of the lauan to reinforce it if I have to but I would still need to find the box extenders.
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:53 PM   #54
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I've never seen an old work box with tabs that "screw tight to hold the box in place" that is shallower than 2". I won't say you can't find one, but the shallowest "tab box" that I've ever seen is 2" deep.

Take a look at using box supports along the sides of the box. I don't know of any place that would have them other than an electrical parts store. I've never seen them in Lowe's or HD.

Here's a link to how they work. Scroll down to "Method 2" to see how they're used.

http://waterheatertimer.org/how-to-i...cket-door.html
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Old 04-23-2021, 04:08 PM   #55
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Home Depot has old work box that is 1 and 1/4 inches deep.. but I see you need one with the flip out tab for your install
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Old 04-24-2021, 02:55 PM   #56
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I've never seen an old work box with tabs that "screw tight to hold the box in place" that is shallower than 2". I won't say you can't find one, but the shallowest "tab box" that I've ever seen is 2" deep.

Take a look at using box supports along the sides of the box. I don't know of any place that would have them other than an electrical parts store. I've never seen them in Lowe's or HD.

Here's a link to how they work. Scroll down to "Method 2" to see how they're used.

http://waterheatertimer.org/how-to-i...cket-door.html
Actually I have seen these at HD and wondered how they work. Now I know. Thanks
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Old 04-24-2021, 05:03 PM   #57
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Thanks John, but those are the same as in the link I posted. What I need looks like that but has the tabs that flip out to lock it on the back of the lauan panel. The front mounting holes on these are so close the edge that I worry that the screws will pull out when I pull a plug out of the receptacle. I could glue a wood strip to the back of the lauan to reinforce it if I have to but I would still need to find the box extenders.
Well you should consider getting one of these and trying it in the space. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...RSWR/202077341
We have one in the sidewall of our slideout, check your measurements, the simple 1.25” deep box will not have enough room for wires.
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Old 04-24-2021, 07:19 PM   #58
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Well you should consider getting one of these and trying it in the space. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...RSWR/202077341
We have one in the sidewall of our slideout, check your measurements, the simple 1.25” deep box will not have enough room for wires.
I am using the 2" boxes for some outlets but they are too deep for the available space in one wall and a cabinet. I realize there will not be enough room for the wires with just the 1,25" box that's why I also need the surface mount box extenders, unfortunately I have not been able to find the type that Keystone used for the bathroom GFCI.
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Old 04-24-2021, 08:33 PM   #59
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I am using the 2" boxes for some outlets but they are too deep for the available space in one wall and a cabinet. I realize there will not be enough room for the wires with just the 1,25" box that's why I also need the surface mount box extenders, unfortunately I have not been able to find the type that Keystone used for the bathroom GFCI.
Is this what you are looking for? https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Non..._bap_d_rp_88_t
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Old 04-25-2021, 06:22 AM   #60
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Small items are expensive at Amazon.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/outlet%2...pe=text&NCNI-5
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