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Old 01-26-2020, 11:41 AM   #21
chuckster57
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So I'm having issues with my heater, new fill of propane, turn it on and the fan blows immediately but it never lights, so the fan shuts off fairly soon. The intake and exhaust look clean and it is an airxcel suburban model. Any ideas?
If you ran out of propane, light the stove and the water heater to purge the air and verify you have LP flow. If they don't light then you may have turned the valves on the cylinders open too fast. If that's the case turn them OFF, undo the pigtails. Re attach them and open the valves SLOWLY the first turn.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:44 AM   #22
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I should have mentioned purging the lines by lighting the stove and fridge. I didn't try the water heater yet...on my way out. I'll try anything.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:46 AM   #23
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If the stove and refer lit, then your issue is probably at the furnace. Turn the thermostat OFF for about 3 minutes and try again.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:54 AM   #24
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Bingo, we have a winner! It is working normally now, thank you again Chuckster.
There must have been some air that needed more purging. Yes, PO ran out both tanks, go figure...
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:09 AM   #25
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Spoke too soon, would not fire yesterday. Back to trouble shooting...
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Old 01-29-2020, 10:07 AM   #26
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Spoke too soon, would not fire yesterday. Back to trouble shooting...
I had the same problem. Fixed it with a new board. Make sure it's a Dinosaur brand, they last forever.
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Old 02-12-2020, 10:33 AM   #27
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Okay, got back to it today. Gained enough access to see the top of the unit, remove 2 of 3 ducts and the duct panel for those 2. Turned it on and guess what?
It works without the duct panel on, so this is a clue, right?

Not sure how to get access to more parts by removing the cover. Can't really see all the fasteners...
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Old 02-12-2020, 12:34 PM   #28
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The amount of airflow from the ducts is DIRECTLY related to the amount of return air into the furnace. So, either you have "restricted outlet ducts" somewhere downstream that are causing an air blockage or you have a restricted air input into the furnace so there's just not enough air in to push air out. My guess is that if it works when you remove the outlet ducting, it's a blockage 'downstream" in the underbelly. It may be a crushed round duct that's caught in a frame member or it may be a crushed duct in the "molded in floor" that Keystone built. You can check the "in floor ducting" by removing a duct grate and using an inspection mirror/flash light to see down the run. You may also be able to use your phone in the duct to take photos rather than a mirror/flash light.
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:20 PM   #29
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Thanks, my thought also. The air in path looks good so I'll have to follow the ducts...
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:16 AM   #30
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I guess should have mentioned that the only connectors visible are for the limit switch and I did pull those off and replace, hoping to make better contact. Maybe that was it as it worked this morning, just now.

Question; do they bias the air flow for more at the lower level than the upper level? I did notice that right way. Or can this indicate a pinched duct?

Also, looks like I would have to pull the entire unit out to get at the sail switch and other components, not a fun proposition.
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:34 AM   #31
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"Question; do they bias the air flow for more at the lower level than the upper level? I did notice that right way. Or can this indicate a pinched duct?"

By "bias" I think you mean "balance" the air flow. No they do not, the runs closest to the furnace have less resistance and therefore move more air. Most fiver's take the front duct and "snake" it thru the basement to provide radiant heat to keep the water pipes warm.
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:38 AM   #32
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Thanks. I do have 3 ducts running out of the heater but have not traced them down yet...kind of feeling the pain of all this fixing up of this unit.
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:10 PM   #33
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Well it has lit 3 mornings in a row...
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Old 02-19-2020, 04:56 PM   #34
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It starts up every time I try now, so I'm going to zip it up and cross it off my list, fingers crossed.
The only thing I did was make sure good contact on the limit switch leads...of course getting to it was the challenge and getting to anything else will be a real B!
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Old 02-19-2020, 05:36 PM   #35
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I guess should have mentioned that the only connectors visible are for the limit switch and I did pull those off and replace, hoping to make better contact. Maybe that was it as it worked this morning, just now.

Question; do they bias the air flow for more at the lower level than the upper level? I did notice that right way. Or can this indicate a pinched duct?

Also, looks like I would have to pull the entire unit out to get at the sail switch and other components, not a fun proposition.
Too bad about the sail switch, ours is easily removed via 2 screws. Take the outside cover off and there it is front and center.
he odds are thogh that it's a faulty board. Get a Dinosaur brand, they are bulletproof.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:02 PM   #36
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Too bad about the sail switch, ours is easily removed via 2 screws. Take the outside cover off and there it is front and center.

he odds are thogh that it's a faulty board. Get a Dinosaur brand, they are bulletproof.


Sail switch is inside the fan case, I suspect what you saw was the limit switch.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:21 PM   #37
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Sail switch is inside the fan case, I suspect what you saw was the limit switch.
Hard to mix up. I adjusted the sail and the limit switch is way back and hard to get at. Attached are pictures of both. Sail is on the left or above, it is right in the middle of the motor easily removed by 2 screws. The limit switch is on the right or below, hard to see but it's above the exhaust pipe.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:31 PM   #38
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I stand corrected on YOUR furnace.
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Old 02-19-2020, 09:02 PM   #39
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I wish mine was accessible from the outside. I would have to pull it in under the sink area to get to the sail switch or anything else. I hope it keeps working as is...
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Old 02-20-2020, 04:18 AM   #40
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I wish mine was accessible from the outside. I would have to pull it in under the sink area to get to the sail switch or anything else. I hope it keeps working as is...
Both the furnace and water heater have hot exhausts that must be vented to the outside or you die of CO poisoning. One of us is confused.
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