City Water Fitting Leaks?

Twisties · 12-15-2019, 11:10 AM

Hi, more Noob?'s. I just hooked up my City Water for the first time and find that there is a pretty good drip from the fitting where my hose connects to the RV. I have the pressure reducer that the dealer supplied in line at the supply end and the drinking water hose the dealer gave me going into the RV's fitting.

It seems like it won't hurt anything, as the cabinet appears to be designed to handle wet conditions. Just wondering if I should make the dealer fix this, or if they all do that?

Thank you!

travelin texans · 12-15-2019, 11:24 AM

Tighten the fitting, replace the rubber gasket in the fitting & check the pressure at the supply spigot. Might pick up a brass 90 degree fitting at Walmart for the end of the hose, sometimes just the weight of the hose sticking straight out causes a leak.
Personally I wouldn't haul it to the dealer for a less than 10 cent gasket or a few minutes tightening fittings.
You should also buy an adjustable water pressure regulator then toss that "restrictor" they gave you as far away as possible before you start noticing reduced water pressure.
One other absolute necessity is a surge protector/EMS, hardwired or portable, for your incoming power.

**flybouy** · 12-15-2019, 12:09 PM

Like Danny said, go to Walmart, Home Depot, Dollar Store, whoever and you can get a handful of garden hose washers for a buck.

All the "stuff" in that "starter kit" the dealer so benevolently gives you is "dumpster fodder" in my opinion. The "regulator" for the water hose just restrict flow, the hose is cheap small diameter and the dump hose isn't worth...well the stuff that goes thru it.

wiredgeorge · 12-15-2019, 01:36 PM

Check the hose end where it screws onto the fitting on the trailer to make sure it isn't out of round or dented. Quality washers are also a must as has been pointed out as well as a decent pressure regulator.

Twisties · 12-15-2019, 02:25 PM

I tightened some more and made sure there was no strain on the line, wiggled it around some, and it stopped. The existing washer look pretty good to me. I had a bunch of replacement washers and tried one with worse results. In any event, it's hooked up and not presently leaking.

Sorry for all the questions. This is our first real day moving into the unit, as it has been doing what rainforests do in the rainy season since we got it. We have a three day dry window before "The atmospheric river" hits. I say dry. Things are still dripping and the ground is sloppy, but it isn't actually raining and we did actually see some sun today.

wiredgeorge · 12-15-2019, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

I tightened some more and made sure there was no strain on the line, wiggled it around some, and it stopped. The existing washer look pretty good to me. I had a bunch of replacement washers and tried one with worse results. In any event, it's hooked up and not presently leaking.

Sorry for all the questions. This is our first real day moving into the unit, as it has been doing what rainforests do in the rainy season since we got it. We have a three day dry window before "The atmospheric river" hits. I say dry. Things are still dripping and the ground is sloppy, but it isn't actually raining and we did actually see some sun today.

Since you are starting out, suggest you buy a potable water hose; hopeully the hose given to you by a dealer is such but if you continue to get drips, a drinking water hose is safer and the the brass end is likely not out of round which sounds like your issue. I have never bought a new camper or received any "free" starter kit items so not sure what type hose they would include.

Twisties · 12-15-2019, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Since you are starting out, suggest you buy a potable water hose; hopeully the hose given to you by a dealer is such but if you continue to get drips, a drinking water hose is safer and the the brass end is likely not out of round which sounds like your issue. I have never bought a new camper or received any "free" starter kit items so not sure what type hose they would include.

Thanks. It is a potable water hose. The end does not appear damaged, but I may pick up another and some fresh gaskets.

**flybouy** · 12-15-2019, 05:22 PM

I use the "Never Kink" brand that has an inside diameter of 5/8" to get the maximum flow. They have been lasting for about 8 years now. You should also invest in a water filter and as previously mentioned an EMS (Energy Management System). It's. much more than just a surge protector and it will protect the sensitive electrical components such as the air conditioner, refrigerator , microwave, etc.

travelin texans · 12-15-2019, 06:20 PM

Also a separate hose dedicated to finding the black tank ONLY.
Pick up a clear 45 or 90 degree fitting for the sewer hose also.

Twisties · 12-15-2019, 09:19 PM

Regarding energy management/surge protection, I ordered a Camco 50A Surge protector/circuit analyzer last week. It should be here tomorrow. I hadn't heard of an energy management system.

Is it adequate, or should I return it and get something else?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

**flybouy** · 12-16-2019, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

Regarding energy management/surge protection, I ordered a Camco 50A Surge protector/circuit analyzer last week. It should be here tomorrow. I hadn't heard of an energy management system.

Is it adequate, or should I return it and get something else?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. What you have ordered is a basic surge protector. Surges are not what causes most electrical damages in RV's.

Campgrounds have electrical issues that an EMS will protect against that a SP will not. Low voltage (brown outs). The EMS will disconnect power if it falls too low. This is one of the largest killers of air conditioner. As voltage drops amperage increases and that will burn up motors (I.e. the compressor).

Power drop outs. If the power goes off the EMS will "wait" for a period of time after power is restored before reconnecting. This "wait period" protects the AC compressor. When the AC gets shut of the refrigerant pressure is very high and the compressor can lock up or struggle to start again causing wear and possible burn out.

Mis wired or missing connections from the power pedestal. The EMS will not connect and will let you know of this potentially dangerous issue.

Most folks have had good results with the Progressive Industries units. Here's a chart with their units and what they offer. https://www.progressiveindustries.ne...ed-comparisons

Hope this helps.

**JRTJH** · 12-16-2019, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

Regarding energy management/surge protection, I ordered a Camco 50A Surge protector/circuit analyzer last week. It should be here tomorrow. I hadn't heard of an energy management system.

Is it adequate, or should I return it and get something else?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you read the product description on the Amazon webpage that you linked, the last sentence reads: "Does not protect against sustained high or low voltages.". That means it will allow power to continue even while your air conditioner and microwave "burn up from low voltage conditions"....

That CAMCO circuit analyzer/surge protector does not interrupt unsafe/unsuitable power, it only "lights a LED to tell you it's dangerous". In the reviews, there is one that gives a personal experience of his son getting shocked and he also got shocked when touching the trailer while wet. The CAMCO device did not interrupt power to protect against that "hot skin condition".

I'd urge you to go with a true "EMS" not just a surge guard/analyzer. The cost more, but one time of operating your air conditioner overnight on low voltage and waking up in a warm trailer will pay for the EMS "two times over" compared to the cost of replacing your air conditioner top unit.....

If it were me, I'd buy a Progressive EMS (portable or permanently installed). They will provide you with analyzing functions AND will disconnect power if it is unsafe for your rig.

Twisties · 12-16-2019, 08:52 AM

Thanks.... Do I need two, one for 30A supplies and one for 50A supplies? I read that these things must be connected directly to the pedestal, implying the need for two.

travelin texans · 12-16-2019, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

Thanks.... Do I need two, one for 30A supplies and one for 50A supplies? I read that these things must be connected directly to the pedestal, implying the need for two.

NO!
If your RV is 50 amp then use a dogbone 30 to 50 adapter into the pedestal then your EMS, this is if you have the portable. If you have the hardwired unit plug in the adapter then trailer cord & done.

Twisties · 12-17-2019, 08:54 PM

So, it looks like the hardwired units are cheaper, less exposed to weather, and less likely to be stolen... I know where my circuit breaker panel is, and I can probably figure out access to the wiring coming into it. Is this where I put the EMS, or does it need to be upstream of the converter, and where might I find that?

**flybouy** · 12-18-2019, 04:43 AM

Most people install it just upstream of the panel box. It will protect everything upstream from that including any failure of the trailer's shore power cable and plug. If you go that route write down what color wire goes to what terminal and take pics with your phone. It's usually a simple install and there are plenty of us on the forum that have done it if you have questions.

travelin texans · 12-18-2019, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

So, it looks like the hardwired units are cheaper, less exposed to weather, and less likely to be stolen... I know where my circuit breaker panel is, and I can probably figure out access to the wiring coming into it. Is this where I put the EMS, or does it need to be upstream of the converter, and where might I find that?

Hardwired are cheaper til you decide to trade RVs then you'll either be rewiring again or buying another.
We had a portable for 15+ years that was used daily full-timing for 10+ years of that on 3 different RVs, weather was never a problem & it never walked away.

gearhead · 12-18-2019, 02:54 PM

^^This x 2. I have a 50amp Progressive and use it for the 50 amp Landmark 5th and the 30 amp Bigfoot cabover. I just use a dogbone adapter for the 30 amp.

Jim2366 · 12-18-2019, 05:52 PM

I have had the same problem a number of times. One time had to purchase a new RV hose, I always use plumbers tape, and if there is a drip I use fise grips and tighten a little more. I carry three hoses so that I can reach a nearby water faucet at a State Park.

2019 Keystone Cougar 5th wheel 361rlw 39'4"

flrtrader · 12-22-2019, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twisties

Hi, more Noob?'s. I just hooked up my City Water for the first time and find that there is a pretty good drip from the fitting where my hose connects to the RV. I have the pressure reducer that the dealer supplied in line at the supply end and the drinking water hose the dealer gave me going into the RV's fitting.

It seems like it won't hurt anything, as the cabinet appears to be designed to handle wet conditions. Just wondering if I should make the dealer fix this, or if they all do that?

Thank you!

I had the same problem with mine no matter what I did, Finally bought the 90% brass fitting for 5'er or straight one for reg towable. But with these they seem to tighten better. Also be sure it is the plastic fitting, Mine was what I said above PLUS the connection on the hose right before the threaded piece dripping as well. Which was less than 6 months old from Camping world. Anyways thos brass fitting and a new hose did wonders. Also I don't see it mentioned much but get a 5/8 hose.

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