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Old 07-20-2011, 06:51 AM   #1
Bob Landry
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Water Heater Check Valve

Does anyone have the manufacturer and part number for the check valve that Keystone uses on the water heater? Mine is OK, but after reading a few posts about them failing and shutting off hot water to the faucets, I think it would be a worthwhile addition to the spare parts box.
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:08 AM   #2
hankpage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
Does anyone have the manufacturer and part number for the check valve that Keystone uses on the water heater? Mine is OK, but after reading a few posts about them failing and shutting off hot water to the faucets, I think it would be a worthwhile addition to the spare parts box.
I don't think this is a Keystone part. It should be from the water heater manufacturer. Check your Atwood or Suburban paperwork for replacement part #. They come pre-installed on residential W/H, I assume RV would be the same. Hank
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:27 PM   #3
outbackmac
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part

If they fail you can remove the white disc from inside and get through the weekend. I know cause i had to do it.
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:07 PM   #4
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Where is the check valve/white disk located?
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:40 PM   #5
Bob Landry
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I went by today and pulled the check valve off of the water heater so I could match it for a spare part. While I was looking at it, I got to thinking. This is part of the alternate way of setting the water system up for winterizing. My previous trailer used two valves, but the idea is the same, to prevent anti-freeze from going into the heater. I live in Central Texas so the likelihood of me winterizing my trailer is minimal. If we have a winter front, I'll open the low pint drains, enpty the water tank, and blow air through the lines to clear them. That being said... If I'm not going to winterize, is there any reason not to just replace the check valve with a 1/2" pipe nipple? The existing valve if kept closed, prevents cold water from back feeding into the hot water outlet.
The reason for all of this is to accumalate an assortment of spare parts that would replace a failure that might cut a camping trip short and the check valve is one that's on the ;ist after reading several post about them freezing up. I really see no need for it in my situation. Comments?
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:53 PM   #6
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just pull out the check valve and install the dual valve bypass. Winterizing is easy, and the check valves have nonlinear flow characteristics vs. pressure so often end up with water temp variations with flow in the shower/kitchen. removing the check valve eliminates the issue. Our dealer generally recomends doing this mod on virtually every trailer brand they sell for those who dry camp and do navy showers. years ago suburban didn't have a check valve, but at some time they started installing them and people stated complaining about water going cold when doing navy showers when the shower head is turned down.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:12 AM   #7
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I was leaning towards just removing the check valve since I won't be winterizing.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:58 PM   #8
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Bob Landry, Howdy;

Why not just go ahead and do it. Never know where you and it may find yourselves. May also help with the sale when you get your next one or you can isolate the waterheater if you need to work on it (Anode swap ect.), and still have water ...

Just sayin' ...

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