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Old 01-12-2017, 02:58 PM   #1
Blankman
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Remove belly pan panels

I have a 2017 3660fl. I want to put pipe insulation on the water lines in the lower belly pan as the froze the other night. On the panels there are screws which easily removed but there are also what looks like rivets? Any idea on how to remove them so I can lower one side of panel to slide insulation on the lines?

Thanks

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Old 01-12-2017, 03:59 PM   #2
bobbecky
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In November, I dropped the entire front coroplast to make a repair to our grey tank that was leaking. The only water line that was in that area was the black tank flush line, which doesn't have water in it except when flushing the black tank. On our 3402RL, there are quite a few lines located behind the rear of the large storage area and immediately behind the convenience center. Not sure how cold it was where you had the frozen line, but we have been down to single digit temps and never froze a line, but we did have the furnace running to maintain at least 65 degrees inside the trailer, which also provides heat the the belly area, keeping the water lines fluid.
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:15 PM   #3
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I think the real problem was my low drain lines were exposed and I believe they froze at the 4 degrees outside temp and it followed up the pipe just enough to stop the flow. I have insulated them very well and think if we use the gas heat more it should be fine. If I look in the holes where the hydraulics are for 2 main slides I can see the lines from the sink in that chamber.

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Old 01-12-2017, 04:44 PM   #4
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The use of electric heaters or other supplemental heat that does not also get directed to the belly will cause freezing of things in the belly area, and even though the gas can be costly, it ends up cheaper than the damage a frozen water line or fitting can cost. We were north of Kansas City, MO a few years ago, helping care for a relative, and prior to leaving for warmer weather, we experienced very low temps, and this was at the time propane was approaching $5 a gallon, so a 7 gallon tank was costing us over $30 for a fill, and was only lasting slightly over two days. We hung in there, and fortunately had no damage, but I think there were a few rigs that had to have repairs made. Some will say the ability of these rigs to survive cold weather as some are advertised to be able, is just hype, but they can, but it will cost you in propane.
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:15 PM   #5
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Well fortunately we had a close call with no damage using electric heat. Lesson learned for sure. Gas is cheaper than fixing something for sure. Thanks for your help and advice!!

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Old 01-15-2017, 02:46 PM   #6
mikell
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Use an oil filled heater in the basement and open the wall between the basement and crawl space. Small fan to move the heat around and plug all the holes you find air leaking in.

Will work did it for 5 years in Michigan winters

Insulating the pipes without adding heat will only make them freeze longer
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Old 01-15-2017, 03:22 PM   #7
hdxbonez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikell View Post
Use an oil filled heater in the basement and open the wall between the basement and crawl space. Small fan to move the heat around and plug all the holes you find air leaking in.

Will work did it for 5 years in Michigan winters

Insulating the pipes without adding heat will only make them freeze longer
^^ This is true^^

I've done the same thing in mine, but I also had to direct some airflow into the underbelly where the water lines run when they drop out of the basement before reentering conditioned space alongside the water heater. The Cougar 'Polar Package' ducted heat was not enough to compensate in below zero temps. With 2 fans blowing into the underbelly, I've been good down to -15* below zero so far this winter.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:02 PM   #8
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well I killed two birds with one stone!
I installed the Cheap Heat system in our 5er, the initial cost is not so cheap, but also not crazy for the quality of the product. This system for those of you that don't know is an electric add on unit to your existing furnace. Heated air from the electric add on runs through your existing duct work. The simple flip of a switch and you go back to gas!!

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:18 PM   #9
Steve S
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From my experience 9 out of 10 times the water pump freezes up. In the winter in take the top panel off and let it adjust to and stay at the temp in the trailer. This solves the problems but my pipes do freeze up, they're wrapped but it doesn't do much in a deep freeze. Sometimes if your water tank is full it won't freeze up and you'll still have water.
I've never winterized my trailer as I use it alot and yes I've had my lines frozen solid for a few weeks in Alaska and even down here but I've never had a split hose or any problems.
As for your question about the rivets just drill them out and the new screws fit perfectly in the holes.
If you're going to wrap your pipes wrap them in heat tape and they'll never freeze. They come in 120 volt and 12 volt. Hope that this helps
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:47 AM   #10
randyhoff
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Were you able to find a way to remove the "rivets"? I have the same thing on my unit.
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