Stop the Rock and roll

monica4patience · 06-26-2016, 09:11 AM

We're on a seasonal site. The trailer rocks and rolls whenever anyone moves. Doesn't bother DH but the rest of us hate it! Currently using the stabilizer legs and hitch post. Would using cinder blocks help eliminate the rocking? Don't want to get into expensive stabilizers since we don't travel with the trailer.

Thanks for any advice.

Festus2 · 06-26-2016, 10:33 AM

Monica -
If you don't move your unit or travel with it, then raising it up and setting the frame on blocks seems like a good solution to your "rock and roll" problem. Remember to use caution when jacking it up and using solid cement blocks might be a safer option than the hollow core variety.

TAZ23 · 06-26-2016, 10:51 AM

Yes cinder blocks Under the corner jacks will help with the up and down bouncing. The less your scissors Jacks are extended the better off you will be. Some of the motion is also from rolling back and forth. For that X-Chocks or some other expandable chocks will help greatly.

monica4patience · 06-26-2016, 11:05 AM

Thank you.

Hardware store for cinder blocks?

Mike484 · 06-26-2016, 11:22 AM

If the trailer will be staying in the same spot, cinder blocks will work great, make sure the holes are vertical and not horizontal. Also, put the blocks under the frame, not the jacks, takes a little longer, but much more stable.

malabarbob · 06-26-2016, 11:49 AM

Keep those scissor jacks as short as possible. I went to Home Depot and got some exterior 2x3 - built them 3 wide and 3 high and added a carry handle to each. Make a big difference. Will continue to build higher as necessary. Just screwed wood to wood below it.

Festus2 · 06-26-2016, 02:18 PM

Raising your entire RV off the ground and placing the frame on blocks so that there is no weight on the tires and/or suspension should solve your problem and eliminate the need for any additional chocking or stabilizers and adjusting the length of your jacks.

Cement blocks can be purchased at any building supply store.

notanlines · 06-26-2016, 03:46 PM

Don't waste much money on the x jacks between the tires. If your trailer is rocking forward and back just chock it. And I might add that "solid" standard sized concrete blocks will be hard to find. Normal 8x8x16 blocks will do just fine.

Mike484 · 06-27-2016, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Festus2

Raising your entire RV off the ground and placing the frame on blocks so that there is no weight on the tires and/or suspension should solve your problem and eliminate the need for any additional chocking or stabilizers and adjusting the length of your jacks.

Cement blocks can be purchased at any building supply store.

This is why you want to place the blocks under the frame and not the stabilizer jacks. The jacks are only for stabilization and will be destroyed if you place the weight of the trailer on them.

jkohler70 · 06-29-2016, 04:20 AM

Just curious, but is the frame of an RV robust enough to support it only at 5 points - 4 corners and the hitch? I think I would add blocks near the axles. I'd be worried about bowing the frame if supported only at each end. Not only will the frame be supporting the weight of the RV, but also the axles, wheels, and tires.

Mike484 · 06-29-2016, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkohler70

Just curious, but is the frame of an RV robust enough to support it only at 5 points - 4 corners and the hitch? I think I would add blocks near the axles. I'd be worried about bowing the frame if supported only at each end. Not only will the frame be supporting the weight of the RV, but also the axles, wheels, and tires.

Yes, that would be the best thing to do, there is very much a possibility of the frame bowing.

mfifield01 · 07-01-2016, 08:58 AM

I just installed the BAL stabilizers. My toughest critic, my DW, was skeptical. She mentioned today that it made a big difference. The longest part of the install was running to Lowes to get longer bolts for the foot. The diameter of the bolts included is too big.

Ken / Claudia · 07-05-2016, 09:06 PM

On my 40 ft park trailer, seasonal, I used 8 points of contact on the frame with cement blocks and 2x6 against the frame. Removed the tongue jack so it would not be rusted into place. High enough so tires were off ground. After leveled with blocks in place. I put 2x6s under the raised tires. I did the same on the 28ft as a seasonal. I took off the corner jacks so they would not be rusted into place. I never noted any difference from walking around on my stick built home or those trailers. Very solid and not much cost.

monica4patience · 07-08-2016, 06:42 AM

Thanks for all the advice! Just tell me how I would go about putting the blocks in place? Is this something I might want to pay An RV service to do? I wouldn't have to pay for a service call,

Festus2 · 07-08-2016, 08:26 AM

I wouldn't feel comfortable giving you any advice or "instructions" about raising your RV, placing blocks under the frame and then lowering it onto the blocks. While the process is not that technical or complicated, if not done properly, can result in serious personal injury and/or damage to your RV.

IMO, this is a job best left to someone who "knows what they are doing" and has some experience. If I were you, I'd leave it to someone else who is familiar with the process to make sure it is done properly and safely.

bobbecky · 07-08-2016, 08:31 PM

Maybe a better alternative to the cinder blocks would be get 6 or 8 of the jack stands that they use to set up mobile (manufactured) homes. That way, all you need to do is use a wrench to place and adjust the jacks, and you can have the weight distributed over the entire length of the frame, and won't need to have special jacks to raise the trailer to place the cinder blocks and need spacers to get everything perfect.

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