Battery disconnect and lock questions..

[{tpc}]

Ok so currently, every time we drop the unit off in storage, we disconnect and remove the battery. I then take it home and throw it on the battery tender. But I am thinking that it is overkill, and that should be more of an end of season type of deal. I want the battery to be secure however, and I also want it not to be drained by the radio and lp detectors that stay on all the time. So I was thinking of adding this:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...ery+disconnect

Along with this wire (for the ease of hookup - no need to make a cable):

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Battery-...TTWKR8YHTW135G

And mounting all of that on either the side or back of the battery box. It can be mounted multiple ways but as a surface mount, it would stick out about 3 inchs off whatever surface it was mounted to.

I was also thinking of adding this for security of the box/battery itself:

http://www.b-drvbatterylock.com/balocl.html

So my questions are simple:

Anyone use any of these products and had any good or bad experiences? Any suggestions for the mounting of the disconnect?
Should I disconnect the power tongue jack as well, or leave it connected for ease of use? (I don't fear it causing a drain unless the lighting is left on)

Or should I just save the bucks and hook it up myself everytime? I think the whole setup would cost me about $60. My only concerns are one, that the truck's alternator isn't effectively charging the battery while towing and that might mean I still have to pull the battery after each trip to put it on the tender, and two, that I am effectively giving any yahoo the ability to raise/lower my tongue using the jack. I have a tongue lock on it while in storage, but I'm sure with enough time just about any lock can be defeated.

Thoughts?

[JRTJH]

There are cheaper alternatives available from discount stores. Harbor Freight has a battery cutoff switch for $12. It may not be as "reliable" but then it is probably the same brand as what's installed in new RV's from the factory. I'm sure that Keystone isn't installing "top of the line" switches LOL The big issue as I understand it is arcing at the switch contacts when turning it off or on. With an RV, you're really not going to be activating the switch under a heavy load so you shouldn't have any significant arcing. I had a "cheapie from HF" on my Springdale for 4 years and never had a problem. Which to choose? That choice is really determined by the thickness of your wallet.

As for whether to leave the tongue jack powered or include it also, I'd urge you to consider that if the battery cutoff switch is used to completely disconnect the battery, you don't have power to the break-away switch. This means your RV won't apply breaking power in the event of a separation of tow vehicle/RV unless the cut-off switch is turned on. As a "safety reminder" to prevent you from hooking up without "battery power to the breakaway switch" I'd suggest that you include the jack in the cut-off. That way, you can't raise the jack to connect to the tow vehicle without turning the battery power back on. This would ensure you've got power to the break-away switch and the brakes without the potential to "forget"......

[{tpc}]

I agree about putting the tongue jack on the cutoff as well.

Anyone use the locking mechanism? Or just make your own somehow?

Any ideas about how long the battery might last if charged fully? I am fairly certain the 2300bh doesn't come with a converter that charges the battery, so maybe this is all just a waste of money and energy if I'm just going to be pulling the stupid thing in and out all the time.

It seems no matter how much or little I use it, the tender still has to charge a little. But from the night I put it on to the next morning it is fully topped off. So maybe its only using a little bit. Would the main breaker disconnect everything else but those two things? Or is that strictly AC, and stuff like the thermostat/heater/fridge etc still be causing some drain on the battery? Maybe its silly to put a disconnect in for just the radio and lp sensor?

Edit:

Do all the TT come with a converter? I don't recall a manual for it but my breaker panel looks just like this one:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...mp-brown/74212

and I do recall hearing a fan motor or something inside it making noise during our first trip, now that I think about it.

[JRTJH]

I believe that all Keystone products (and certainly all Passports) have an installed "converter/charger". You've got one, it's probably a WFCO 55Amp that's "tucked in behind the AC circuit breaker panel and DC power distribution panel.

If I recall, you have a 2013 Passport, that converter/charger is a 3 stage "automatic" charger that has a "boost" phase for rapid charging, followed by a "charge phase" where the bulk of the charging occurs and finally a "maintenance" or "Trickle" charge which is intended to protect the battery from overcharging as it "tops off" the battery. You should still check the electrolyte level in your battery at least monthly, more in hot, summer weather.

The battery, if completely disconnected from the trailer with a cutoff switch, should last at least 3 or 4 weeks with almost a "full charge" if it was initially stored in that condition.

As for a locking mechanism. You can build an aluminum strap lock similar to the one you posted in the link for about $10 with parts from your local hardware store, Lowe's or HD. The biggest problem you'll face is measuring to form the bends and drilling a hole for the hasp. If you don't want to build one, a bicycle cable lock will suffice to keep "honest people honest".

Yes, it is wise to lock your battery onto the tongue if you're in a location where things "disappear" regularly.

[GMcKenzie]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'd suggest that you include the jack in the cut-off. That way, you can't raise the jack to connect to the tow vehicle without turning the battery power back on. This would ensure you've got power to the break-away switch and the brakes without the potential to "forget"......

This is brilliant. I going to add a switch and was thinking about the jack. I think I'm just going to switch the ground wire which will kill everything.

[AlbertaRvMan]

TPC,

Please post pictures and describe what you decided to do.

I am also considering both the battery cut off switch as well as the lock for the batteries.

I think the surface mount is the way I will go. Currently I unplug the ground wire each time I leave. And when I return I hope I still have batteries and propane.

Thank you.

[{tpc}]

Was giving this more thought on the way home tonight. Any thought on using some bendable metal strapping (think the kind used to hold up garage door openers and the like) with the holes all over it? I could probably bend it around, and get two hole to line up at the top, to use to put a lock through.

Seems it would be inexpensive and maybe not as secure as something solid, but enough to keep "honest people honest". Thoughts on this? Too insecure?

Really if could find a way to keep the lid secure, the bottom of the box is bolted to the frame so it isn't going anywhere. Maybe I could just drill a hole or two and put a small lock on each side?

[SLIMSHADIE]

My 12v battery died last year at this time and been waiting to upgrade to 2 6v. So when I did upgrade, 2-6v interstate batteries, new plastic double battery box, blue sea 9003e on/off switch(rated for highr amps), new battery battery cables from 3 different auto stores.

I did Interstate Batteries cause I can get them for cost.

My box looks exactly like this:
http://www.modmyrv.com/wp-content/ga...atterybox1.jpg
Not real secure but I store my TT in my shed at home.
Probably upgrade to the Torqlift lockable box, kind of expensive though.

My switch is not in the most convenient place, inside the front a-frame under the camper. Have to get on a knee and reach in to switch on/off. I have rarely used it, again its in my shed with a 30amp plug in.

I replaced all the shotty original battery wiring with the auto store premade cables, same as OP. I think I needed 4 cables with different lenghts/colors. Going to 3 auto stores and a TSC, I found them all.

It turned really nice. Id say my battery box is the weak point, but not a real necessity, right now. Upgraded almost all my lights to LED. I think I went from hours of lights to days.