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05-15-2014, 04:59 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 35
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Expansion Tank Install
My wife and I do a lot of State Park camping and both were annoyed by late night bathroom visits and being woken up to the sound of a surging water pump. After pouring over several forums on adding an expansion tank I finally gathered the few supplies needed and jumped in. After about 30 to 40 minutes of work all I can say is WOW! We can now run our sink for 20 to 25 seconds before the pump turns on and when it does the pump seems to work less and is quieter than when under constant demand. That probably will equate to several toilet flushes per night with no reason to leave the pump turned on. I believe it will help the pump and my marriage last much longer! This was an easy mod that I highly recommend if you plan on staying at sites without full hookups. Not to mention with the tank I installed I now have about 4 extra gallons of water on hand. Win, win, win!
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Jeff & Theresa Barsotti
2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Megacab Laramie SLT
2011 Keystone Laredo 265 RL
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05-15-2014, 05:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lakeville
Posts: 156
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Can you list the parts used in your modification an maybe include some photos?
LZScout
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2012 F-350 SRW Lariat Supercrew 4X4 6.7L Diesel
2013 Keystone Alpine 3250RL
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05-15-2014, 06:54 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 35
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Unfortunately I didn't take photos but it is a pretty easy install. I purchased a 4 gallon expansion tank, a drop ear elbow fitting in brass for rigidity then used plastic ball valve and T fitting all sharkbite style that I purchased at Menards. You'll also need a short piece of pex which I had laying around. You just have to splice into the main line from your pump using the T fitting. It's not important where in that line just whatever works for your setup . After you install the T then install the ball valve and connect it to the drop ear elbow which attaches to the tank. I was able to keep my tank upright which should help when time to winterize. I think there are threads out there that have photos. Good luck on your install you won't regret it!
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Jeff & Theresa Barsotti
2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Megacab Laramie SLT
2011 Keystone Laredo 265 RL
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05-15-2014, 08:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 287
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With the valve between your T and the tank, should be easy to take the expansion tank out of the system (if needed) and/or to winterize it simply by removing, draining and leaving open.
Nice idea! Where could I find room to put an expansion tank...
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05-17-2014, 10:08 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
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What kind of pressure do you develop with the expansion tank?
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2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
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05-18-2014, 06:43 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 265
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An expansion tank doesn't change the cut-in or cut-off pressures. It just acts as a spring in the system to store up the pressure and release it when needed. The end result is that your pump run longer when pumping up then stay off longer as you use water.
If you're using enough water to match your pump's max flow rate, the pump will still run constantly once the pressure drops enough for it to turn on.
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05-18-2014, 06:52 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,739
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That was helpful information…the lightbulb just turned on. I can install that *anywhere*. The 4-Gallon tip is a good one. Now I just need to find a good spot. Probably under the kitchen sink where I have lots of oddly shaped empty space.
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-Scott, DW, DG, DB, and DD
2011 Passport 2590BH
2009 Ford F150 SuperCrew F X4 5.4L w/Max Tow
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05-18-2014, 07:00 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtyphoid
An expansion tank doesn't change the cut-in or cut-off pressures. It just acts as a spring in the system to store up the pressure and release it when needed. The end result is that your pump run longer when pumping up then stay off longer as you use water.
If you're using enough water to match your pump's max flow rate, the pump will still run constantly once the pressure drops enough for it to turn on.
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Thank you, that is quite informative. Now if I can just decipher what the install process was, hmmmmm.
__________________
2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
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05-18-2014, 07:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Reedsport
Posts: 322
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Logically, it could be installed just about anywhere in the cold water system where you have access and space. Ideally closer to the water pump. Just come out of the tank into a tee on the water line, adding valve(s), and or quick connects for convenience.
This one from Camping World is inline. Much smaller but easier to find a space to put it. It's effectiveness would be less than the larger one but better than none at all. Reading the reviews may be informative.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ator-tank/2290
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2007 Keystone Cougar 243RKS
2019 Ford F150 S/Crew ECOBoost
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05-18-2014, 06:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 265
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I don't know about RV expansion tanks, but home tanks are available with and without bladders to separate the air and water. Expansion tanks must start full of air, because compressing the air as the water is pumped in is what makes them work.
Knowing what kind you have may play into where to install it. If it doesn't have a bladder, then it will need to be drained every once in awhile, because the air charge will be slowly absorbed by the water. As that happens, the expansion tank becomes less effective. If it has a bladder, it will likely have an air fitting like a tire valve to adjust the pressure. You'll need to be able to get to the valve occasionally.
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05-18-2014, 08:24 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Upland, CA
Posts: 425
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the tank from Camping World has a diaphragm and air at the top of the tank. But they say the way we use RV's it will be drained and filled multiple times and replacing the air is not necessary, as there is no fitting anyway. The tech also said draining the tank would not be necessary. I don't mean to dispute you typhoid, just relaying what was said to me. Must be different for RV's.
__________________
2015 Four Winds Super C, Class C Motorhome
4 - 100w mono solar panels with MPPT40 to charge four 6v batteries with 440amp hours.
Progressive Industries HW50c surge protector
1800 / 3600 inverter with auto transfer switch,
The bosses: My wife and two Labradoddles 80 lbs each
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05-19-2014, 06:27 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemitebob
the tank from Camping World has a diaphragm and air at the top of the tank. But they say the way we use RV's it will be drained and filled multiple times and replacing the air is not necessary, as there is no fitting anyway. The tech also said draining the tank would not be necessary. I don't mean to dispute you typhoid, just relaying what was said to me. Must be different for RV's.
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That's good to hear. As I stated, I don't have any experience with RV expansion tanks.
It sounds like the one you're describing has a fixed air charge based on typical RV water pump pressure, with a diaphragm to keep the air from being absorbed into the water. It should be maintenance free.
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