Good ways to remove the underbelly of the all weather Trailer

[djac13]

I'm going to do some work under my 26BH passport and need to remove the black weather cover. Is there a recommended way to remove areas of this?

[chuckster57]

If it’s screwed in, just take them out. If it’s “nailed” in, pull the nails and replace with stainless steel screws/washers.

[djac13]

Thanks chuckster57, I should have added more info to my question, if I need to get to the middle of the trailer underneath, should I roll back the whole black or do people cut it?

[chuckster57]

Some cut it, and if you do, use “scrim tape” to put it back together. I just take down as much as needed to get the job done. It makes a clean surface to lay on.

[Canonman]

What is the best way to remove the nails?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Canonman

What is the best way to remove the nails?

I use a prybar and if they are stuck real good I grind off the head and punch the nail out.

[djac13]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Some cut it, and if you do, use “scrim tape” to put it back together. I just take down as much as needed to get the job done. It makes a clean surface to lay on.

Good point on a surface to lay on. I’m just looking at the front and it looks pretty tough to work around but we’ll see

[djac13]

Thanks,

I started the removal and came across two different size screws on my belly, the smaller size almost seems like a nail. I'll work on it and see if I can get it.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by djac13

Thanks,

I started the removal and came across two different size screws on my belly, the smaller size almost seems like a nail. I'll work on it and see if I can get it.

They are nails... There are two types (probably more than two) of fasteners used on RV belly covers. One is "screwed in" and the other is "shot in"...

Most people are familiar with pneumatic nail guns used to build wooden structures. The nails look similar to the bottom row of nails in this photo. What is used to attach the coroplast to the steel chassis rails on your trailer are the top row of nails seen in the photo. While the trailer chassis is "upside down" and before the axles are placed on the trailer, the coroplast is laid out and a worker on each side will "shoot nails" into the chassis rails to secure the coroplast. They then "use screws to secure the center portion to prevent the coroplast from sagging. The reason they don't use nails in the center is because it's difficult to locate the crossmembers. "Shooting nails" and missing the steel crossmember could puncture a tank, a wiring bundle or worse... So, nails on the rails and screws on the crossmembers is the typical construction.

[djac13]

Thanks JRJTH, that's helpful

For the nails, can they be reused if they aren't bent?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by djac13

Thanks JRJTH, that's helpful

For the nails, can they be reused if they aren't bent?

If you can get them out without ruining them, you are in the wrong line of work.

[gearhead]

You can go back with stainless steel self drilling self tapping screws. Use oversized washers. Fastenal carries them.

[JRTJH]

I don't know how you "preserve" or "destroy" a steel shaft with a head on it for future use in a hole that you just made bigger by pulling that steel shaft out of it..... In other words, trying to put a nail back in the same hole it came out of usually results in a flat tire when it falls out and you run over it (or someone else is following you and isn't lucky enough to avoid your debris)....

The easiest way to reattach the coroplast is to buy some self drilling screws with 1/4" heads and some 3/4" (unless the 1" are on sale cheaper) "fender washers" and use the nail holes to screw in the new self drilling screws. That way, "next time you need into the belly" you'll have a much easier process to drop the coroplast. Take one of the nails with you to a "screw and fastener specialty store" or even to Lowe's or Home Depot or any hardware store and buy the self drilling screws that are "just a tad bit bigger" than the nails that came out of the holes. HINT: You can buy a box of 100 or a pound of self drilling screws for less than buying 10 packs of 10 from a hanging rack in any store.

Don't "reinvent the wheel" by trying to devise a "new system to reattach the coroplast", rather just use the holes in the steel chassis and the coroplast that are already there with new fasteners.

[sourdough]

Well, I had replied right after the question was posed saying the same thing everyone else did but......guess senility is getting to me; I forgot to send it.

After you pull those nails the old holes will be evident and aids considerably in lining up the material and getting it back in place. If you have the time and/or means you might give the bottom a once over prior to buying the screws/washers to see if any of them have been "buggered" up or placed where they didn't even go through anything. I had to replace 7-8 on this one right after getting it that had been screwed through the coroplast into thin air missing any framing and others that had the area around the hole all messed up requiring some large fender washers. Might save you a 2nd trip to the store.

[NH_Bulldog]

Mine has screws down one side and nails down the other. The nails actually have a little hex head so I just spin them with a cordless drill to loosen and then pop them out with a mini bar. I go back with self tapping ss hex head screws and washers.

[Dhuhn]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

Mine has screws down one side and nails down the other. The nails actually have a little hex head so I just spin them with a cordless drill to loosen and then pop them out with a mini bar. I go back with self tapping ss hex head screws and washers.

This is what I did on mine

[Crookedread]

I had to take the coroplast cover off in the middle of a trip. I found a piece of wiring hanging out one side of the trailer and it was completely destroyed by dragging on the pavement. Taped it up and drove to the site where we were staying. Tried unscrewing the fasteners but every one of them broke off. Taped everything off for the remainder of the trip. Replaced with tiny bolts and nylocks, oversized washers and now I can get in easily if I ever have to. The wire?? Construction debris left in the trailer!!

[rlh1957]

Cut out the section you need to access, then use Scrim or Gaffers tape to seal it back. (both come in black).

Don’t mess with those nails to go back in, screws are easier, will make it easy to access again, especially on the road.

Even the factory fasteners that look like screws with hex head are actually a type of nail.

[Bill-2020]

#12 self-taping or self-drilling. Those are a smidge larger than the hole the nail made.

[djac13]

Yeah, thanks for the tips. Job is done. I added JT strong arm stabilizers. Those self tapping screws are much better to use to replace.