New Converter time?

[B-O-B'03]

Started DE-winterizing the trailer this weekend and filled the water tank to sanitize it.

I was running the pump quite a bit and noticed it slowing down, even though I was plugged in to 30 amp shore power.

Pushed the button for the battery charge indicator lights, on the panel and only 3 were lit.

I got my 15 amp battery charger hooked up and things started working normally, this leads me to believe both the converter and batteries are toast

The current converter is a WFCO 8950, just over 2 years old as of last month

I did some web searching, for a replacement converter, there are lots of choices, any recommendations from the collective?

A replacement board for WFCO seems to be the cheapest option, just not sure if that is the best option.

I am considering switching to 6V golfcart batteries too.

Thanks,

-Brian

[BuxCamper]

I've never heard of a situation such as yours but try disconnecting the battery and run the pump again. Maybe the converter was at its power limit trying to charge the battery and run the pump.

-- Mark

[PARAPTOR]

I would check the Battery disconnect switch and make sure you battery is connected to the Power Distribution Panel. Sounds like even though you are connected to shore power and I assume the breaker is on to the converter, you do not have a circuit from the converter to the battery (disconnect Switch). Yes it could be a bad converter, but would check position of the disconnect switch and make sure it is functioning properly .

Notice you said when you place your battery charger on the battery all goes back to normal, same thing should happen when your converter is connected and functioning. Have you put a meter on the battery going this process.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by BuxCamper

I've never heard of a situation such as yours but try disconnecting the battery and run the pump again. Maybe the converter was at its power limit trying to charge the battery and run the pump.

-- Mark

Hi Mark, it is supposed to be a 50 amp converter, doubt that I was hitting the limit, but I did put a clamp-on current meter on the positive battery cable and very few amps were flowing into the battery.

Originally Posted by PARAPTOR

I would check the Battery disconnect switch and make sure you battery is connected to the Power Distribution Panel. Sounds like even though you are connected to shore power and I assume the breaker is on to the converter, you do not have a circuit from the converter to the battery (disconnect Switch). Yes it could be a bad converter, but would check position of the disconnect switch and make sure it is functioning properly .

Notice you said when you place your battery charger on the battery all goes back to normal, same thing should happen when your converter is connected and functioning. Have you put a meter on the battery going this process.

Thanks PARAPTOR, There is no disconnect switch on my trailer and I did have a clamp-on current meter on the positive battery cable.

I am fairly confident in my diagnosis, just looking for replacement converter recommendations.

Thanks,

-Brian

[JRTJH]

Don't forget to check your reverse polarity fuses on the converter. Sometimes a surge will cause one (or both) of them to blow. If that happens, the converter will provide power but won't recharge the battery. Additionally, it's the time of year when a battery that's been sitting in the garage all winter will simply "give up the ghost" and need replacement. So charge the battery fully with your external battery charger, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested. You may need a replacement battery.

Good luck

ADDED: The WFCO 8950 is the AC power panel/circuit breakers. That's not the DC amperage rating. The converter is the "rest of that assembly" that is wired to the AC power panel. It is typically rated at 55, 65, 75 amps DC power. The WFCO 8950 is a "stand alone power center" designed to be used with a "stand alone converter". It's a 2 piece system.

[PARAPTOR]

Interesting!!! No factory installed Battery Disconnect Switch Thought all rigs had one As stated Reverse Polarity Fuses would also open the charging circuit.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by PARAPTOR

Interesting!!! No factory installed Battery Disconnect Switch Thought all rigs had one As stated Reverse Polarity Fuses would also open the charging circuit.

Lots of RV's don't have a factory battery disconnect. None of mine have had one. Thought about adding one to current rig, but thinking is about as far as I get LOL.

[BuxCamper]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Lots of RV's don't have a factory battery disconnect. None of mine have had one. Thought about adding one to current rig, but thinking is about as far as I get LOL.

Same boat here. I wonder if they're more standard in rigs that typically have multiple batteries.

I've added disconnects at the battery cables using heavy duty connectors called Power Poles. This let's me take the battery completely off the camper.

-- Mark

[chuckster57]

I think is more brand specific. For example every Grand Design unit comes from the factory with a disconnect. Venture doesn't install a switch, and neither does Prime Time.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Don't forget to check your reverse polarity fuses on the converter. Sometimes a surge will cause one (or both) of them to blow. If that happens, the converter will provide power but won't recharge the battery. Additionally, it's the time of year when a battery that's been sitting in the garage all winter will simply "give up the ghost" and need replacement. So charge the battery fully with your external battery charger, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested. You may need a replacement battery.

Good luck

ADDED: The WFCO 8950 is the AC power panel/circuit breakers. That's not the DC amperage rating. The converter is the "rest of that assembly" that is wired to the AC power panel. It is typically rated at 55, 65, 75 amps DC power. The WFCO 8950 is a "stand alone power center" designed to be used with a "stand alone converter". It's a 2 piece system.

Hi John,

I checked, the converter is an 8955, 55 amp unit, according to the label on it.

The fuses are all good, the voltage at the battery terminals is within .03 volts of what is at the converter, the camper is parked under a cover, on a pad, with 30 amp service, so it is plugged in all the time.

I have found some replacement units, on line, that just replace the converter part. One, made by boondocker, claims to be a direct fit, 4 stage unit and another made by progressive dynamics - also a 4 stage unit, but comes with a remote monitor/control panel.

I read some posts, on another forum, that the PD unit is better at quickly charging the batteries, if using a generator for short bursts, since it stays in boost longer than the boondocker.

I am thinking if I am spending money, I might as well get a better unit than the one that failed in less than 2 years.

Anyone using either of these?

Thanks,

-Brian

[JRTJH]

If I were you, I'd install a replacement from either WFCO (the OEM converter) or modify the system by installing a Progressive Dynamics converter/charger. If you're able to follow instructions and have any electrical/electronics experience, installing the PD converter is not difficult. Just be sure to "think through the connections" rather than just connect wires where they look like they go.... Nothing tricky, nothing particularly difficult, it's just that installing something that's "different from what was removed" makes the task not completely 'foolproof"...

Personally, I've never had any problems with WFCO products and all my experience with them has been that they are a reliable, quality product. Hopefully I haven't "jinxed" myself with that statement, but I'd be inclined to use the OEM converter/charger. However, either will work, probably equally well so long as you install it correctly...

You mentioned going with a dual 6 volt battery system. That will probably be your "best mod of the season"....

[JRTJH]

Brian,

After posting the preceding response I realized that you had stated in your post that the original converter had failed "in less than two years". There is a 2 year warranty provided by WFCO on their products. I've heard that they are extremely liberal with warranty replacements and offer excellent warranty support. If your trailer is less than 2 years old or even if it's close to the expiration date, you might want to give WFCO a call and chat with them. Often they'll ship you a replacement for no charge. Just a thought, but that's the price of one of your 6 volt batteries.....

[BuxCamper]

I agree WFCO converters quickly developed a great reputation. I just have a feeling something is being overlooked. However any electronic device can fail.

-- Mark

[Dave W]

I replaced the 65 amp version (WYCO WF9865) in our 5er with a 75 amp version (WF9875) last fall because their 5 buck (MSRP) computer fan was droning/vibrating and my DW could hear/feel it (I could hear it if my hearing aids were 'installed'). The added cost to upsize is negligible. It's a very easy job, but with that said, be sure that your wiring will support that larger capacity converter and that it will plug in the back side of the power center without replacing the plug. I also mounted the new converter on some rubber isolators. And that old converter - a 10 buck fan was ordered and replaced the bad one so I now have a spare

Oh and the battery disconnect - always a good idea for about $25. Ours has an OEM that will disconnect some things but there are a few circuits that stay live, i.e. the LPG monitor. My fix is to add a second disconnect that completely isolates the battery - I generally use a Marinco or Longacre two pole version

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Brian,

After posting the preceding response I realized that you had stated in your post that the original converter had failed "in less than two years". There is a 2 year warranty provided by WFCO on their products. I've heard that they are extremely liberal with warranty replacements and offer excellent warranty support. If your trailer is less than 2 years old or even if it's close to the expiration date, you might want to give WFCO a call and chat with them. Often they'll ship you a replacement for no charge. Just a thought, but that's the price of one of your 6 volt batteries.....

Hi John,

Thanks for the advice... the trailer is 2 years and a month old and I am not sure exactly when it failed, hence my less than 2 years comment.

It is worth a shot and I'll give them a hail and see what happens.

Thanks,

-Brian

[Outback 325BH]

This is the first thread I have read that has good things to say about a WFCO converter. Many folks have replaced their WFCO units with aftermarket (Progressive Dynamics being the most common) ones... even while the WFCO unit still "works." I of course say "works" in quotes because it is their lack of proper charging even when functioning.

I can't imagine anyone going through the process of replacing their converter and using another WFCO as the replacement.


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[Jetfixer03]

IMO, if you're thinking about upgrading to 6v batteries I'd consider either upgrading the charger, or choosing batteries that match the WFCO's charge profile. Each battery manufacturer will state the optimal charge voltages for the 3 charge cycles. By choosing a converter/charger that most closely matches the recommended voltages for your particular batteries you'll get the 'fullest', quickest, and safest charge. Charging at too high a voltage can result in excess "boiling off", too low in sulfation. I believe the WFCO's bulk charge voltage is 14.4v. Trojan T105's, for example, recommend 14.8v bulk charge. At 14.4v you may never reach their full charge capacity. At a lower voltage you could eventually get there, but the bulk charge cycle may time out before that happens. Interstate batteries, on the other hand, look like they more closely match the WFCO's charge profile.

Personally, I upgraded my charger when I upgraded to 6v's because I want to charge as quickly and fully as possible off my generator, plus I think it's healthier for the batteries. People upgrade to T105's all the time and keep the stock converter, no biggie, it works...just not as optimally as it could, as I understand it anyhow. Something like a Progressive Dynamics or IOTA charger doesn't cost much more, but you may end up upgrading the battery cables as well to meet their recommendations. That adds some cost and labor, for sure.

Here are a couple of articles I found helpful: http://popupbackpacker.com/state-of-...-battery-bank/
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

Having said all that, I have the brand new WFCO 8955PEC that I removed from my trailer. I had it plugged in for about 1 day before I pulled it. I'd sell it for about half of retail, PM me if you're interested.

[eds451]

My original 07 WFCO died last fall. Replaced with a Progressive Dynamics. 2 cooling fans and a remote monitor. Well worth the $20 more than a WFCO IMHO.

[B-O-B'03]

Thanks for the input everyone.

I contacted WFCO and they sent me a return authorization # for the defective unit. The trailer was 2 years old the 19th of March.

After some more research and the suggestions I received from members here I think I will go ahead and get the PD replacement main board that also includes the remote display/controller. I am not sure I want to fool with shipping the WFCO back and keeping it as a spare... the PD unit comes with a 3 year warranty... Maybe I should offer it up to anyone that wants a replacement, cheap?

Now I need to find a new battery box that will hold 2 X GC2 batteries - end 2 end, the existing space should accommodate that, any recommendations there?

Battery and box shopping I go, thanks again everyone.

-Brian

[Jetfixer03]

The only easy way to fit mine were end to end as well. I searched high and low, not many choices. I bought this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2721946...&ul_noapp=true

I wasn't crazy about white, but it is pretty thick and stout. I'm happy with it. I did just see this one as well, it's a bit more $$:

http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/dur...cI5hoCbRnw_wcB