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04-30-2016, 10:11 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: East Coast
Posts: 15
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Knotted internal shore power cord..
Hello All,
So, somehow, the last time I put away the shore power cord, it became severely twisted and knotted so that I can only pull out about 7 feet or so...
I tried (for over 1/2 hour) twisting and turning it and had some success (maybe another 2 feet or so), but that's about it. I can't even see enough to see if the direction that I'm twisting is helping or making things worse...
The compartment that the line cord is in is right above the generator, but I see no access to it at all. I might be able to remove the external cowling around the cord, but that's not going to get me much more room.
Does anybody have any tricks to try?
The RV is a 2010 Keystone Energy Toyhauler TT, if that makes any difference.
Thanks.
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04-30-2016, 10:22 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 449
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HA, I had that same issue last weekend. I've got a 272BHS TT. My cord is under the rear bunk. Well, out came the rear bunk and there it was. A huge knot. Way more cord than I thought I had! That thing should be on a reel...
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04-30-2016, 10:27 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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After going through what you are experiencing, I finally cut the cord right at the electrical junction box leading to the converter. I installed a Marinco connection kit at the exterior rear wall. No more tangles or knots.
Access to this box and to the compartment was fairly simple as it was located right behind a removable panel at the end of the RV. Somehow, the cord ended up in knots and I could only pull out 5 ft or so. I swear there was a gremlin inside the compartment who took great delight in tying knots in the cord.
These Marinco "kits" are available at marine and RV retailers as well as Camping World.
Ever since installing this 30A receptacle, my BP has dropped and am far less grumpy.
The compartment you are looking for has to be inside somewhere --- look behind drawers and for a removable cover held in place by screws. Good luck.
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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04-30-2016, 10:59 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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My solution was to build a bigger mouse hole. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=4938 Also, keeping the cord lubed with dry silicone helps prevent the knots. As Festus2 mentioned, there should be a removable panel inside so you can see what you are up against. I like my method because I didn't have to find another place to store that heavy cord.
Inside panel removed. cord is on left side.
Your panel will most likely be different but you can get the general idea.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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04-30-2016, 08:33 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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Great solution, Hank. Don't know if I have the nerve to do that. Dry silicone is good idea, also. And, yes, there will be an access panel inside somewhere. It may take removing other panels to get to it.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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04-30-2016, 09:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Whittier, Ca
Posts: 181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2
After going through what you are experiencing, I finally cut the cord right at the electrical junction box leading to the converter. I installed a Marinco connection kit at the exterior rear wall. No more tangles or knots.
Access to this box and to the compartment was fairly simple as it was located right behind a removable panel at the end of the RV. Somehow, the cord ended up in knots and I could only pull out 5 ft or so. I swear there was a gremlin inside the compartment who took great delight in tying knots in the cord.
These Marinco "kits" are available at marine and RV retailers as well as Camping World.
Ever since installing this 30A receptacle, my BP has dropped and am far less grumpy.
The compartment you are looking for has to be inside somewhere --- look behind drawers and for a removable cover held in place by 4 screws. Good luck.
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This was one of my first mods. Got the Marinco "kit" at Amazon. I have a rear livingroom with two chairs on the back wall. By doing this mod I was able to remove the little cabinet out which gives us a lot more room. One of the better mods I've done.
Jerry
__________________
Jerry
2008 Keystone Springdale 242FWRLSSR 5th wheel
2011 Chevy 2500 6.0 gas
16K Super Glide Sliding Hitch
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05-01-2016, 05:39 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,910
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Sometimes the kit from Marinco does not completely cover the existing mouse hole. I bought the individual inlet and plug and used a mounting plate made from a piece of Starboard. That also gives you a choice of inlets. The one supplied with the kit is a plastic cheapie. It will cost a little more to do it that way instead of buying the kit, but it will give you a result you will be happy with. Cheap and quality do not work well together.
__________________
2011 Outback 277RL
2013 F250 XLT Crew Cab 6.2L
Bitter Gun Owner
Bitter Clinger
Armed Infidel
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05-01-2016, 06:14 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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Removing the external cowling allowed me enough room to pull my knot through and get it untangled- twice
I love the Marinco idea- will look into that!
__________________
2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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05-01-2016, 02:12 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: East Coast
Posts: 15
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Quick update
Thanks for the suggestions.
I looked a little more and the only way I see access it to remove an internal wall behind the generator, underneath the bed. The bed plywood/chipwood appears to be stapled on to the frame, not screwed and with a headboard/shelf glued on top of that. Not very much room, but it looks like a couple hour job at least so I went back a took another go at untangling.
I was able to get the knot close enough to the opening to then use a wooden furring strip (that I cut a wedge onto) and worked it into the knot inside, loosened it up enough to then pull out 3 different sections of the cable through the cowling and then sort things out.
But I'm afraid it's going to happen again, right when I'm trying to set up camp, probably after a long drive and the exact time when I least want any hassles (tired and a little grumpy).
I looked at the Marinco kit. I think I'm going to order one, but I won't be able to reclaim the space currently used due to where it is. I'll just have another cord that I have to store and remember not to lose.
Now onto the next winter mystery (I define a "winter mystery" as something that was perfectly fine before putting away for the winter and is now broke).. That being why the stereo's outside speakers work and the inside speakers no longer have any sound coming out of them. Another adventure, I'm sure.. but one that we can live without for a while, if need be.
And I haven't even dewinterized it yet..
Thanks,
All.
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05-01-2016, 04:11 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
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Howdy All;
One thing I've noticed when attempting to coil and uncoil my electric umbilical cord is, if one thinks about it, it is like coiling rope, or a hose. By that I mean that if you keep rotating the wire/rope/hose it will coil from the resistance from the sides of the space into which you are coiling it. Same effect as giving the hose a flip & twist while you are coiling it up for storage. We just need to know which direction it wants to coil so ... if you can see into the space you can 'see' which way it wants to go then flip/twist to suit it's direction ... if the wire enters from the near right it will go across the front (side nearest you), then if you twist it to the right it will go back (away from you), to the rear of the compartment keep twisting it and it will continue to coil round and a round. If it comes in near the rear of the compartment it should go to the left, so twist accordingly...
Remember to twist in the opposite direction as you deploy the cord or you will create the same knots you just got rid of. Having a wee bit of a nautical background and having handled cordage for a number of years it sorta gets to be second nature...
hankaye
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Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...
Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
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05-02-2016, 04:48 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: North of Montreal
Posts: 227
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I had the same problem.
Here is what I installed:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...mart-led/69595
Now I have a removable power cord. Works great.
__________________
Quiroule:
2018 Ford F150 XLT
Your children and grand-children will not remember what you did for them, they will remember what you did WITH THEM.
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05-02-2016, 05:21 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Round Rock
Posts: 218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2
After going through what you are experiencing, I finally cut the cord right at the electrical junction box leading to the converter. I installed a Marinco connection kit at the exterior rear wall. No more tangles or knots.
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Yup! Like he said! One of many mods I've done to the trailer, definitely one of the more satisfying.
__________________
2013 Silverado 3500HD - Duramax/Allison - CC, long bed, SRW, 2WD
2013 Springdale 247FWRLLS - 1st 5er sold - 1 July 2016
2017 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
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