Cable pokes out from top of slide-out when extended

[tundrwd]

A cable (I assume part of the 12V wiring for the slide-out ceiling lights), has started poking out when the slide out is extended. It's a hassle trying to get up there to poke it back under the seal.

Anyone else have this problem and fix it yourself? I can't see the top of the slide-out when retracted, and haven't poked around yet, lifting the seal from the outside when extended, so not sure what it'll be like to get a fix on it.

I'm assuming this is a warranty item, but it's annoying taking it in for something minor. I'm thinking a zip tie to tie it back to some other existing wiring, or a zip-tie anchor with some super-huckum-pucky to attach on top of slide out and anchor it with a zip tie. However, I'd like to hear back if someone else has had this issue, and what they did to fix. If it's too much, or too much risk damaging something else, I'll take it in, but would rather not.

[PARAPTOR]

Not sure what type slides or configuration you have that you can not get to the top of slide when retracted? Not sure what you are going to be able to do from the outside by lifting that seal. If the issue is opposing slides can you open them part way to get a peek? Obviously it would Be nice to know what this wiring is have contacted the dealer for suggestions?

[chuckster57]

If your seeing 12V wiring sticking out, get the unit back into the dealer ASAP.

Wiring for slides is usually run underneath, and comes out of the framework into a bottom corner of the slide.

Run the slide 1/2 way out and you should be able to trace the cable(wire)

[JRTJH]

Typically the 12 volt/120 volt wiring for the slide enters through the bottom. I haven't seen any slides with power cables entering the top. My guess would be that you have a cable operated slide and one of the cables has come loose or you have a "reinforcement wire" that has torn loose from inside one of your slide seals. Either way, it does need to be repaired. If it's a slide cable, you may find your slide inoperable once it "breaks loose" and if it's a slide seal rod, you'll notice it once the rain starts dripping into your RV from the damaged slide seal.

I'd pull the slide in "part way" and use a flash light to peer around the fascia and see if you can locate the damage. If it's electrical wiring, it's a "danger" should it roll, tear the insulation and short out against the frame of your RV, if it's a slide cable, sooner or later you're going to be stranded and if it's a slide seal reinforcement rod, it'll only get worse. Inspect it to find the damage, if you can't locate it, then a trip to your dealer ASAP is suggested ...

[tundrwd]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'd pull the slide in "part way" and use a flash light to peer around the fascia and see if you can locate the damage. If it's electrical wiring, it's a "danger" should it roll, tear the insulation and short out against the frame of your RV, if it's a slide cable, sooner or later you're going to be stranded and if it's a slide seal reinforcement rod, it'll only get worse. Inspect it to find the damage, if you can't locate it, then a trip to your dealer ASAP is suggested ...

Not possible. The facia JUST clears the roof by maybe an inch, so no way I'm looking there (I've tried). Can't peer in from front, as the bedroom is there, and there's a partition wall there with sliding doors - so again can't look from the front. The only way is from the bathroom, and since the problem is about half-way along an 8' slide out, it can't be fixed from inside without removing facia.

Not sure WHAT cable this is - but the slide-out motors are on the bottom of the unit - right? That's where I can use a manual override. I'm assuming the two upper cables are on an inertial reel, and are used to help stabilize the slide-out from the top - and there are NO motors there. So that just leaves the 2 dome lights above the couch and the dining table in the slide out. I understood all lights are 12V, and run through the converter, so there shouldn't be 120V wiring on the top of the slide out. Shouldn't be.

Meanwhile, I've called the dealer to take it in next week. I've got a few too many things to deal with this in the next couple of weeks, so I guess I'll take it in. If it were simple, I'd deal with it myself. But I'm concerned this will turn into a "goat rope" trying to do this weekend, and I'd take it in anyway.

I'll confirm just WHAT the cable is, etc. when the dealer gets it and they're done.

[slow]

The power to the cable drive motor may not be secured to the inside wall above the slide box. I was not confident with mine so I added another anchor.

To confirm you have the same issue, remove the center trim above the slide on the inside of your unit. Use a flashlight to see if it is the wire to your drive motor that is no longer anchored to the wall.


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[tundrwd]

Originally Posted by slow

The power to the cable drive motor may not be secured to the inside wall above the slide box. I was not confident with mine so added another anchor.

To confirm you have the same issue, remove the center trim above the slide on the inside of your unit. Use a flashlight to see if it is the wire to your drive motor that is no longer anchored to the wall.


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They run the power to the drive motor OVER the slide-out? When the battery is on the tongue, the converter/inverter/fuse box is right on the floor by the reefer? Seems they'd run that power through the flooring, or better yet, between the flooring and the celotex covering below the frame. The slide out motor is mounted to the frame, about 6-7' directly opposite the slide out.

Anyway, I'll see, but I think the facia is stapled on, not screwed on, so that's going to be a mess to remove from the inside.

The next two weeks have just "blossomed" with stuff I've got to do (work and home stuff - just added this morning), weather moving in this weekend, and trying to get ready for our first long trip in the trailer in the middle of July. And still need some truck prep a couple weeks before we leave (so I have time to check the truck before it goes on a longer trip). Time just keeps leaking away...

[slow]

If your profile is up to date and you are referring to the 274BHS; it is a cable driven slide.

You should only have to remove the center trim held with two screws to view the drive motor area and associated wiring. On my model, I can actually see the wiring by looking from the ends of the slide with the slide retracted. You should be able to do the same by looking from your bedroom with the slide retracted.

On our TT, the wiring comes out the wall above the slide, loops a good 18+ inches before entering the drive motor on my TT. The wire loop is held with a plastic hose clamp to the wall. The single clamp was not enough to ensure that the wiring would not be able to drop onto the top of the slide.

[tundrwd]

Originally Posted by slow

The power to the cable drive motor may not be secured to the inside wall above the slide box. I was not confident with mine so added another anchor.

To confirm you have the same issue, remove the center trim above the slide on the inside of your unit. Use a flashlight to see if it is the wire to your drive motor that is no longer anchored to the wall.


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Originally Posted by slow

What model TT or FW do you have? Is it a cable activated slide?

If cable activated, you should only have to remove the center trim held with two screws to view the drive motor area and associated wiring. On my model, I can actually see the wiring by looking from the ends of the slide with the slide retracted.

The wiring comes out the wall above the slide, loops a good 18+ inches before entering the drive motor on my TT. The wire loop is held with a plastic hose clamp to the wall. The single clamp was not enough to ensure that the wiring would not be able to drop onto the top of the slide.

I have a 2016 274BHS. It is cable operated. I haven't sliced open the celotex at bottom of trailer, but have been told that the motor is below, in the frame area, and that's where one needs to go to override a non-functioning motor. I think a 1/4"(?) flex cable hooked to a driver/drill to operate it in or out. Appears you connect that to the end of the motor and operate directly on the motor shaft. That's what I've understood.

On mine, the clearance is so tight that I can tell there IS cable up there by feeling around, but cannot see it.

I'll check tonite and run around with a flashlight and find screws that hold that top facia in place. I'd honestly rather deal with this myself, but don't want to turn what seems to be a 1/2 hour project into a multi-hour project and 2 trips to the hardware store. I don't live in town, so it's a journey no matter what, and despite having a shop full of all kinds of fasteners, etc. - I never seem to have just what I need at that moment.

The window seal is simple, just a painters 5-in-1 tool and gently press it back in is all...

[slow]

I believe you have been misguided on the slide motor location.

This is what you are looking for above the slide:


Note the long service loop of wire to the drive motor.


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[tundrwd]

Update:
Dealer finally got me in yesterday, and fixed the issue of the electric cable snaking out under the weather stripping on the slide-out. Found out that what I’d been told in the past, as well as “help” videos on Keystone’s site are incorrect as to location of the motor for the slide-out. It is indeed on the top of the box. Also found how to get into the area, my slide-out has some trim caps at the corners and in the center that ARE stapled and need to be removed. Once removed, you now have access to the screws for the other trim pieces.

Anyway, it’s now fixed. What I am interested in is if anyone has removed any of these trim “caps”, and simply put them back up with Velcro to make them easier to remove when/if necessary. Does that work?

[slow]

Search "facia" and a recent post will come up.


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