|
My solution for easy access under the couch
Conversion of the Outback 210urs space under the couch
My objective was to allow easy access to the compartment under the couch both for the sake of the water valves and to use the open space under the couch. If a person does not really care about extra storage space and just wants to be able to periodically access the valves; I suppose the easier alternative would be to just remove the 3 plastic grommet covers and take out the screws, whenever access is necessary. Below is what I did to gain storage space and access.
In order to obtain a better view of the entire area, I removed the couch, although that is not necessary. The couch is in two sections, and each section is connected by two nuts on each side. I used a ratchet wrench, and started with the back section, then took off the seat section. Underneath the couch are the two metal brackets and the veneered wood sheet that covers the space on top. They are secured by screws, which can be removed. Before removing the metal brackets, you might make pencil marks for the screw holes, and notice which holes in the metal brackets were used (for my trailer, they used the front and back holes). They can be set aside to reveal the entire space. These should be replaced after you complete converting the space. When replacing the metal brackets, I aligned the brackets along the side of the top veneer sheet on both sides (since they had been installed somewhat cockeyed), drilled new smaller holes, and added a ¼ inch washer underneath each screw. An additional problem I had was that the left side of the couch was not secured; so I screwed a 2 ½ inch deck screw through the forward 2x2 into the rear wall, which solved the problem of a loose couch.
For the sake of converting the space, the first step is to pry off the 3 small plastic decorative covers from off the screws from the padded cover. This reveals the 3 screws which, when removed, will dislodge the full-length padded cover in front of the couch, which can be set aside, The thin baseboard at the bottom (about 5 inches wide) is connected by staples on each side and needs to be reused. I used a wider slotted screwdriver to carefully pry it loose from the inside; it is connected by staples on each side. This should be taken outside the trailer to carefully separate the 1x1 from the thin baseboard, which is also connected by staples. The 1x1 can be discarded, since I wanted to reconnect the padded cover with Velcro at the bottom, and move the thin baseboard to the top. Then I removed all the staples from the thin baseboard by pushing them with linesman pliers out far enough to pull them out the other side with needlenose pliers.
Next I reset the thin baseboard at the top of the opening with the stapled edge on the bottom where it won’t show (it will be covered up with the padded cover below it. In order to make it look good, I had to pry apart the front veneer on each side to pull out enough staples to make room for insertion of the thin baseboard underneath the front veneer. After slipping the thin baseboard under the veneer on both sides, I used a few brads across the top to nail the veneer and baseboard into the front at the top.
In order to make the padded cover look nice, I replaced the long screws with ½ inch wood screws to attach the grommets to the cover, but not protrude any further. Then the plastic decorative covers can be put back onto the grommets. At this point, it is ready for the padded cover to be positioned in front at the bottom and Velcro used to keep it in place on both sides. It looks like the Velcro adhesive backing may not be strong enough, so I may need to use small screws to keep it in place.
__________________
2017 Outback 210URS
2013 GMC Sierra 2500 6.6 Duramax
|
Linear Mode
