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Old 03-29-2020, 05:09 AM   #21
chunker
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I'll add this, hand install. Don't put the socket on the anode and try to install with a drill driver. Great way to cross thread and now you will have damaged threads. Just like with tire lug nuts, start by hand NOT a driver or impact. I wouldn't use any power driver on the water heater anode at all myself.
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Old 03-29-2020, 07:06 AM   #22
rhagfo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post
I needed to remove the anode from the water heater in DD house, I could start to move the full HW tank with a 24" breaker bar. I got out my impact wrench and a couple burst had it loose!
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I did the same thing a couple years ago. I got the anode rod out of our S&B water heater, tank fitting and all. $500 later we had a new water heater and all is good again. I'm not sure if the breaker bar "broke the weld" or if the impact wrench "tore the weld out of the corrosion weakened tank"... Either way, sometimes buying a new water heater is the only "reasonable repair"......
Well if you took the fitting most likely the tank was already shot. I learned a real lesson about impact wrenches about 50 years ago.
I was replacing the alternator on my 68 Mustang GTCS, needed to swap the pulley over and could not get the nut loose! Took to local Ford Dealer whom I had a good standing with. Parts guy took me back to the shop, placed a shop rag over the fan blades put his hand on the rag, hit the nut with the impact wrench and off can the nut! I find I break far fewer rusted bolts using impact than breaker bar when removing.
Something else I have learned, with hard start bolts and nuts, and anode rods I turn slowly backwards until the thread drops then start turning in works very well!
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