Best Hitch for Cougar 24RDS

[RollaMo]

Originally Posted by grizwilson

does anyone know if the BW will attach to the gooseneck ball in my truck or does it require the square turnover ball mount?

The B&W does NOT attach to any gooseneck ball.

Is your gooseneck ball removable? If so, then perhaps it leaves the same square hole that is required for the B&W hitch base to mount.
If however it leaves a round hole, then the B&H base will not fit that.

[RollaMo]

B&W makes two versions of their Companion 5th wheel hitch.

One version for the each manufacturers factory puck system.
And one version that uses the B&W turnover ball system.

If you have the factory puck system in your truck, then I would stick with the Companion system that fits that puck system.

Lots of YouTube videos showing the installation process.

[grizwilson]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I would think, based on this post, that you've already excluded the dealership as having any ability to provide accurate information regarding their product and their ability to support what they sell.....

It further supports the often stated comment: "If the salesman's lips are moving......"

Are there any other dealerships around the area that might also sell the same trailer line ?????

Oh but he used to be a "youth minister" so....

[grizwilson]

wrestled between the B&W and the Demco.... after much thought went with Demco mostly because I could get a good deal and I can break it down and and remove. Thanks so much to all

[grizwilson]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

You might want to check out the Demco Recon hitches: Click here.

If you go with the non-slider, the entire assembly (not including the hitch rails) weighs about 80 pounds and it comes apart in 3 sections if you want to remove it that way. I can lift the entire thing, but because of the bulk size, I can't. With a second person, there's no problem at all. Mostly, I go ahead and take it apart in 2 sections (the head and the base) and I can handle both with no problems that way. It has adjustable height, and can actually get pretty high to adjust for bed rail clearance.

I've never worked with the slider version, and I can't find any information on how heavy the complete assembly is.

I've been very happy with mine. No issues at all in almost 5 years now.

At least, give this one a consideration before you make a final selection.

And I "think" Demco has a version that adapts to the Puck system now too.

I certainly like the way the hitch works. The only issue I have is the base will shift just a bit. I torqued it to the ball at 30# as the manual says, on a 500 mile run it shifted clockwise about 2" I applied some grease to the trailer puck, and lined it up and torqued to 40# 2000 miles later it has shifted about 1/2" used two different torque wrenches to insure accuracy. Anyone else have similar issues? Thanks

[sourdough]

I've got an Andersen that attaches to the ball like the Demco. I had read of some Andersens and others that attach to the ball wanting to shift while towing. I used a B&W ball with the chain attachments that go in the rear pucks (toward the tailgate). The Andersen fits exactly right between them and it can't move. Something like that might work; I don't know the width of the Demco however.

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-H...SABEgLu-PD_BwE

[grizwilson]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I've got an Andersen that attaches to the ball like the Demco. I had read of some Andersens and others that attach to the ball wanting to shift while towing. I used a B&W ball with the chain attachments that go in the rear pucks (toward the tailgate). The Andersen fits exactly right between them and it can't move. Something like that might work; I don't know the width of the Demco however.

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-H...SABEgLu-PD_BwE

Thanks, I had been eyeballing that, will give it a try.

[grizwilson]

Contacted Demco, This is their reply:
"...Good afternoon. This rotation is rare, but on occasion I have run across this. The Recon is designed to be pulled tight to the truck bed and have contact the full length of the two side surfaces to the truck bed. The resistance to turn the 5th wheel plate on top of the hitch head is normally less than the resistance to turn the base on the floor of the truck. Thus, the hitch base stays in place.



A couple of trouble shooting items to check:

Make sure you are not using a rotational pin box. (Example: Reese Sidewinder/Revolution, Lippert Turning Point or Mor/Ryde Orbital)
Use a lube disk on the pin box or lubricate the top of the hitch head with grease. The lube disk or grease will reduce the friction between the pin box skid plate and the top of the hitch head plate.
Make sure there isn’t any caked on or dried up grease around the king pin itself. Caked on dried up grease on the king pin will increase the resistance of the king pin within the jaws of the hitch.
Remove the plastic caps in the bed floor of the truck that are covering the 5th wheel prep mount holes. If the hitch base is on those plastic caps, the hitch isn’t making full metal to metal or metal to bed liner contacted the entire length of the truck bed. By removing the caps and re-torquing the hitch over the goose ball with put the full length of the hitch directly to the metal bed or the full length of the hitch to the bed lined floor. This increases the contact to the bed and increase the friction to keep it from turning in the truck bed.


I normally start with the lube disk or grease if you aren’t using that currently. #4 affects some users, but not all. If 1-3 don’t apply, give #4 a try. If questions, please feel free to drop me an email or give me a call...."

I still have the plastic hole covers still on the truck for the safety chains, they would not fit with the hitch but I did remove them. Bet it solves the issue. Thanks