2021 Alpine red light above switch in electrical panel

[BDove]

Hello. I have a 2021 Alpine. Bought new. Has been a nightmare. Aside from shoddy construction, plumbing, ac issues, hydraulic issues, been in shop half the time I have owned it. Now the in command doesn’t work, doesn’t come on at all, and on the electrical panel in compartment aft of battery compartment, I removed the cover on the electrical panel and notice, at top of panel two switches side by side. The one on the right has a red light illuminated above it. The only time we have been in there was to manually extend the slides when we finally got it back from the shop and the in command was dead. Any ideas? I am afraid to take to a shop after last experience.

What is red light telling me?
Why won’t in command control function?
Will a bad battery cause this, I am plugged in to shore power at my house, 50 amp.

[LHaven]

Mine is an NCSP35, and the maint manuals for that model show no switches or lights at the top. What model is yours? And a photo of the switches you're talking about would help.

[BDove]

3700FL, Alpine, 2021

[BDove]

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by BDove

3700FL, Alpine, 2021

Sorry, I meant the model of inCommand. But I can read the sticker on your board. I'm not familiar with that model.

You can get all the neat maintenance manuals from their website that will tell you what every switch and light does. Start at https://in-command.net/control-systems/ and choose the model that looks like yours.

[BDove]

Thanks for the info!

[bobbecky]

You don't possibly have the battery disconnect turned to off?

[JRTJH]

That red light is supposed to be on. It's the "12 VDC power LED" and indicates that battery/converter power is being applied to the BCM.

You can download the troubleshooting manual here: https://in-command.net/wp-content/up...ting-guide.pdf

And, here's a photo of what you're seeing with an explanation contained in that manual...

Heck, from what you've posted, that red light might be the only thing on your trailer that is working correctly.

[ChuckS]

Since you have 12 vdc to the BCM a simple HARD RESET of the BCM and In Command display will normally correct your issue..

Hard reset means removing BOTH Battery power and shore power for a minute or so and then reapply battery power.

The DC ( display commander ) should now come to life when you turn it on and the BCM functions should now work..

If not then you have bigger issues if the Display is still dead

[BDove]

I will try the hard reset today. I have downloaded the manuals, thanks, and yes, the batteries are on.

[BDove]

Really, this trailer has been a nightmare, you don’t know the half of it. I’m stuck with this, but I would not buy another Keystone product. Quality control is non existent.

[BDove]

Ok all, thanks for the help, the hard reset brought the in command back to life! Thanks again.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by BDove

Really, this trailer has been a nightmare, you don’t know the half of it. I’m stuck with this, but I would not buy another Keystone product. Quality control is non existent.

Tell me about it.
The mistake is thinking that the problem is specific to Keystone.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Tell me about it.
The mistake is thinking that the problem is specific to Keystone.

That's what I was about to say!
There's no such thing as a trouble free quality built rv, regardless of make, model or price.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

That's what I was about to say!
There's no such thing as a trouble free quality built rv, regardless of make, model or price.

Yep... EVERY Airstream ($100K+) dealer has a service/warranty department and even Bowlus, at $250K+ per trailer comes with a warranty to repair problems for a specific time period after purchase.... And, for the most part, their warranty departments are just as hard to book an appointment as it is at a Keystone warranty department.....

[LHaven]

The issue is industry-wide and year-dependent.
My old rig (1998 Sunnybrook) had its share of problems, but by that I mean a NORMAL share, like I might have with a new car. When I downsized 20 years later, I was appalled at how often I had to fix stuff. In the four years I've had this one, I'm not sure there have been six months in which all major systems were working properly at the same time. I probably could have identified 40% of delivery issues had I done a proper PDI, but I had no idea I was expected to do that (and I simply didn't have delivery issues on my previous rig).

[BDove]

Yes, the industry is broken.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by BDove

Ok all, thanks for the help,the hard reset brought the in command back to life! Thanks again.

Glad the Hard Reset corrected the issue.. Remember that for the next time your In Command does not respond or things don't work right from the Display..

Any glitch along the 12 vdc power source and the BCM may "Hang Up" and not respond correctly...

I would also highly recommend you spend some time and download all the various manuals to every appliance, slide outs. etc on your Alpine..

If you have the Equalizer Hyd system instead of the Lipper Hyd system spend some time on their website and learn how to set the Null point, how to manually operate the system using a cordless drill..

For your Schwintek In Wall slides learn where the controller is, the 3 different ways to manually extend or retract those slides..

If you have the IW60RL on demand water heater it is a poorly built appliance with a track record of failures.. And if not correctly winterized YOU WILL freeze the recirculation pump and crack it.

I have owned my Alpine for ten years now.. very minimal issues with it.. I DIY on anything and everything..

**.. and if you are still running the factory installed Oracle HiSpec tires take them to the trash NOW and install either Hercules H901 ST series tires or Sailun S637 ST tires...

You can enjoy trouble free RVing if you educate yourself, become proactive with routine care and upkeep AND STAY OUT OF THE RV SERVICE CENTERS FOR REPAIRS

** We just returned from our first outing of the year, 1300 miles round trip. ZERO issues ( as usual ) and everything worked flawlessly.. All original appliances, ACs kept the RV cool at 68 degrees in 95 to 100 degree weather. Dometic RM 1350 fridge temps at 33 degrees, Old style Suburban SW12DEL water heater worked like a champ on elec mode..

[BDove]

Thanks Chuck S. Great advice. I do try to do as much as I can. Unfortunately mine is a 2021 and the attention to detail in construction just isn’t there. I bought it new, we were staying in the camper in Va, got to campsite, after a couple of days water coming out of bottom. Gushing. Unfastened membrane, a flood. Took of panel on aft side compartment to find shower drain plumbing disconnected because drain after elbow too long, the must have just bent it over to force connect at an angle and it came loose. I fixed that. Also AC wasn’t blowing in front, pulled AC and plenum full of expanding foam blocking airflow, unit was a big block of ice. Thawed out, cut out foam, taped up the plenum to reduce leaks, got some airflow, doesn’t freeze but doesn’t put out much volume either. Return barely pulls air. Need to pull again and make sure return is not crossing with outflow and no ducting is collapsed or broken. Also the cables for the black water and gray water eventually got where you could not move them. Pulled membrane looked at valves, no problem, lubed and checked cable routing, got them to move with effort, and my tanks were flushed well, no paper products, well digested before emptying. When back to Texas, in shop 6 months they replaced cables and valves, work now but I don’t trust it. Also hydraulic pump was puking oil out they did replace it as well under warranty, but won’t touch the AC, I’ll have to do that myself. I’m glad you got a good one. I do have all the hard copy manuals, refer to them often. Thanks for your help, I do appreciate it. During COVID debacle I guess they were just slapping them together.