Keystone 239ML Hot Water

[SGTravel]

Dometic Water Heater Model GC6AA-10E, 6 Gal, Gas/Electric.

City Water connected, have cold coming out of all the faucets. (Ran both hot and cold faucets to get water through them).
Turned on hot, same thing.
All Breakers on, gas on and full.
Clicked on the Gas Water Heater Switch - went around back - ignited, stayed on a few minutes. There is pressure in the tank as I opened the relief valve and pressure came out after heating.

No hot water still.

Turned on the electric water heater, waited 1/2 hour with both electric and gas on, still no hot water. No blown circuits.

Checked the pump (it's not on but should not need to be as I am hooked up to city, eventually turned it on as well nothing changed). Opened the winterization panel by the front left of the couch/bed - no bypass that I can tell (line for city, line going to the fresh water tank and lines for the pump.

Any suggestions? How can I check there is water in the tank? Is there a bypass somewhere totally not obvious (I checked under the sink, under the bathroom sink, around the outside shower and in the back with the water heater panel open)?

[Sawtooth]

Go outside, open HW tank door. Lift (partially) the pressure relief LEVER and stand aside (first). Water in tank will spew outward if tank is full AND the water is under pressure from water pump being on and all inside faucets are closed.

[Sawtooth]

Just re-read ur Post. Said there was "pressure in tank". But no water came out, cuz water in tank isn't up to top of tank yet. Or you may have a plugged water feed line near the HW tank. Possible since Delaware can be cold in winter time and the HW tank is not in an insulated space. Use a.hair dryer on the circular routed lines at rear of HW tank.

[sourdough]

Watching a video of that trailer (you don't say what year it is) it appears the water heater is at the back of the trailer under the bunks. Is that where it is and have you inspected the back of the water heater for the bypass? That sounds like your problem.

[NH_Bulldog]

Our 240BH has a similar layout. You will need to lift the bottom bunk cushion, lift the plywood mattress base and get to the bypass valve/valves at the back of the water heater. Mine has two valves, one at the water inlet and the other at the water outlet of the tank.

[SGTravel]

Yes, after unpaneling everything I could, checking behind the outdoor shower / fridge the light bulb went on, other comments confirmed, there are two valves under the bunk which has a srewed down wood top, not easy to get to, will check tomorrow morning if that fixes it. Thanks!

[Bill-2020]

Bypass is under that bunk. I had a 2020, I cut a hole in the side wall in the cargo are to give me access to the bypass in the event I ever needed it. Then bought an access panel from Lowe’s and it looked factory after that - better than factory actually because it’s mounted level. Just sayin’.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by SGTravel

Yes, after unpaneling everything I could, checking behind the outdoor shower / fridge the light bulb went on, other comments confirmed, there are two valves under the bunk which has a srewed down wood top, not easy to get to, will check tomorrow morning if that fixes it. Thanks!

As stated above, if you turned on the electric element "for half an hour", you very well may have burned up your electric heating element. Also, if you ran the gas heating for the water heater long enough to get steam (pressure) when you opened the pressure relief valve, you may have "melted something in the gas burner tube"...

So, today, when you "go out to check it" don't just expect that "things will be OK if you find the bypass valves and fill the water heater".... It may (quite probably) will not be OK.

Human error, lack of experience, simply forgot until you realized there was no hot water at the faucets... Whatever the reason, be sure to check things out carefully because your water heater has very likely been "overheated and internal parts may be damaged or burned up".....