Your thoughts please....

[wegone]

Now that I am settled in with a trailer, I know we will keep it till I can longer pull it for my diminished mental capacity
I will turn my attention to my TV.

Truck is a 2011 F-250 6.2 6-speed 3.73 FX4 SC SB. Yellow sticker cargo capacity, 3095 lbs.

Milage 140K, all stock, all original equipment other than filters and plugs/wires, which I had changed out, as well as all fluids, etc, when I bought it with 90K miles 6 or 7 years ago. I have never had a moment of trouble with it.

My trailer is 25 feet overall, 21 foot cabin, 5345 dry, 2350 cargo capacity, 700 hitch.

3 trips pulling it thus far, over the highest pass in the state of Washington, easy.
Lots of trips in the future.

Should I consider any upgrades that would improve it over what I have now?

I know all the suspension is original, I'm thinking maybe time for shocks, or (?) but it rides just fine, a little bit stiff with no loads, seems to ride better when working, but again, nothing major.
No steering slop or vibrations, no funky noises, tires were brand new when I bought it, looks like I have 90% of the tread left and no strange wearing.

So.....I know so many of you have so much more experience towing, have seen a lot and been through many situations, and with my wife and I really planning on trailering a lot, I just want to take advantage of your knowledge if you are willing to share it.

One other thought, if I may.

We have two vehicles, the truck and a Honda HRV (great car) that is ours that sits a lot. We just don't drive much.
I was tossing around in my mind of selling both vehicles (both ours/paid for)
A buying a F-150 3.5 eco boost 10-speed with max tow and only maintain one vehicle (insurance, registration, etc) as opposed to two.

Your thoughts?

Thank you

[jsb5717]

IMHO there's no real right answer here. As long as your TV is within the weight limits for towing your trailer then the rest is pretty subjective. For me the biggest issue is reliability. I've had vehicles that I've lost faith in for various repetitive mechanical issues and I've gotten rid of them. No body wants to break down mid-trip. Although, there are no guarantees that you won't break down with any truck. But previous and ongoing reliability make me feel better when starting out on a trip.

Sounds like you've got a reliable rig that performs well with your trailer. To me it doesn't appear that there are any compelling reasons for replacing that truck except your own personal preference. If you want something newer, then choose a properly rated truck and enjoy. As long as your current truck is performing well then you don't have to be in any hurry to make a rushed decision.

[DaveAlb]

I’ve had an F150 3.5 Ecoboost for 147,000 miles now. It’s been a good ride for us. I’d be happy to talk to you about it if you’d like.

[wiredgeorge]

To buy or not to buy; that is the question. Whether it is nobler to retain a positive bank balance or... well you get the idea. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just my very humble opinion. OK, you save a few bucks on insurance but will be making payments on a new truck which means negative dollars. I have a 2006 and just put on some new Cooper tires and Monroe shocks. Don't drive the truck all that much and have to think that it might be better to buy a 2023 F350 but why buy a truck that costs as much as my home did many years ago. I say ride it out with what got you there.

[jasin1]

if your worried about suspension and general wear and tear you might consider getting it inspected by a reputable mechanic…tell them to go over with a fine tooth comb and see if they notice any issues you may have missed..explain that your not selling it just want to have peace of mind.

they will give you a list and you can decide if it’s worth fixing or it may sail right thru inspection…they will inspect u joints and bushings etc..things you may not think of or notice.

if it passes inspection then you have an additional tool if you decide to sell it yourself as inspected vehicles usually sell quicker and at a higher price then similar used vehicles in the inspecting state.

also if it passes or only needs a few things then it should give you a sense of security that at least it’s safe and all parts are up to the job.

i wish i could have kept my old truck that was paid off and relatively problem free at a little over 100000 miles

i would not buy a new truck in this sales environment now because in the next year are two there is gonna be a ton of people under water on loans because of the markups to new vehicles in the last year or so…id be willing to bet some people will just walk away from the loan as opposed to coming up with 10-15k to get out of a vehicle early

[FlyingAroundRV]

We have a 2015 F250 6.2 gas 2WD dual cab standard bed XLT. So far we have done around 30,000 miles pulling a 27’ bumper pull trailer. We service the truck regularly. The user manual suggests oil change every 5,000 miles when pulling a lot. This year we were up and down the Rockies.
We've had no issues with the truck at all.
When we were researching trucks to buy, I looked for design flaws with the 6.2L engine and all I could really find was praise for their strength and reliability. Also, that marque Superduty, from 2011 to 2016 (I think) are regarded as good solid units.
For a 25 foot trailer, I think you have a solid rig as long as you have a WDH (if it's a bumper pull) and I wouldn't change a thing.
On the trailer side of things: before the trip this year to the Rockies, we upgraded our running gear, adding a wet bolt system and disc brakes. The brakes especially, were useful in the Rockies. The Tow/Haul system can be a bit brutal on the engine and transmission on the steeper slopes. On a couple of occasions, we were going down hill and T/H had the transmission in 2nd gear at 60+ MPH and the engine doing 5,000+ RPM. So there were a couple of times I used the trailer brakes to slow us down. A short pull on the brake controller would bleed off some speed and bring the revs back to something sensible. If I touched the truck brakes, the Tow/Haul system would always shift down another gear which wasn't ideal, so I'd just use the trailer brakes. We checked and the brake lights do come on if you apply only the trailer brakes via the controller.
HTH

[wegone]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to share, much appreciated, and as always, good stuff

I am a firm believer that you don't leave biting fish to go look for other biting fish

With that said, I've never been in this spot in my life before where I have the luxury of "choices" rather than limited by what circumstances dictates.

The trailer is a done deal, and it will be paid off hopefully next year.

I love my truck A LOT, only question mark is age.

If I went for the second generation 3.5 and 10 speed it would be 2018 or newer and paid for.

I've noticed lately the used F-150's all trims and power options are coming down in price, with the smaller power trains, they are pretty affordable again in certain markets (locations).

The biggest concern I have is giving up my weight to a lessor platform.
No doubt the newer 3.5 and tens have the grunt, it's the anchoring and downhill exposure that raises doubt in my mind.

Well that and my wife driving it again.

I used to drive a beater to work, and we had a different F-150 (2005 5.4 SRW Lariat Super Crew) that she loved banging the fenders on from trying to park, et.

And I don't think I'd be exaggerating by saying I don't think her truck driving skills have improved any.....

Love the advice reminding me I'm in no rush, time is on my side, be a fool to waste that advantage.

Thanks all!

[wegone]

Thanks Scott...
Wet bolts a sure thing, I'll look at the disc brakes.

Hwy 20 in Washington after you pass the summit, going east over the "North American Alps" https://www.onlyinyourstate.com/usa/...tain-range-wa/

Is a good decent and I've experienced that high rev which can be unnerving at first until you realize its being pushed, not loaded and a well-maintained motor is doing well within its design. I have used manual shift before and that works good too.

[Max23]

Originally Posted by DaveAlb

I’ve had an F150 3.5 Ecoboost for 147,000 miles now. It’s been a good ride for us. I’d be happy to talk to you about it if you’d like.

Hey Dave, how many of those miles have pulled your trailer?? Just curious as you see my TV is same.

[DaveAlb]

I would estimate 40,000 pulling camper. Plenty of mountains in that. Still on original brakes. We’ve had our share of repairs, but not a ridiculous number. I drive 60 mph on the open roads, so I don’t drive real fast.

[rlh1957]

Have a Weight Distribution hitch setup, airbags if you have much bed squat.

Correcting Bed Squat (if you are within weight and loading limits).
Bags don’t increase capacity, they help out with springs that sag under normal max load.

Key is doing the weight calculations correctly.
Going to a CAT scales will make it easy, confirms the math and you know where you’re at, if you’re safe and legal.

[travelin texans]

Personally! If it ain't broke don't fix it!
That TT will have a tongue weight nearing a 1000lbs + 100lbs for the WDH on a 1/2 ton truck with 1500-1700lb payload carrying you & whomever & whatever else loaded into it pulled by a 6 banger that's designed for good gas mileage not high torque which is what's needed for towing. Then if you have to add enhancements to the truck to comfortably "tow/carry" that TT their weight comes directly off that already limited payload. Yes that truck can "tow" that a rv all day long, but "carrying" that much weight how long will it hold up being loaded to the limit every time.
If you're wanting a new truck get a new 3/4 ton, it's basically the same size as the 1/2 ton so shouldn't be difficult for the DW to drive or you to commute & park anywhere the 1/2 ton could. It may be a bit of overkill for your TT, but better to have too much than barely enough.
Just my .02 cents!
Again your $$, your truck!

[crowbar]

Hi Ed - I live a little north of you and pull a trailer similar to your size with an F150 with the 5 litre. It's a very comfortable truck to drive both unloaded and loaded. Mine has all the towing options and quite a high cargo capacity. I think finding a used one with the towing options you want might be a challenge but if you're not in a hurry, just keep an eye open and you never know what you might find. - Roy

[Max23]

For 2011, Ford's all-new 6.2-liter gasoline V-8—and produces 385 hp and 405 lb-ft of torque.


The high-output 3.5L V6 EcoBoost engine is rated at 450 horses. Additionally, the H.O. V6 EcoBoost provides 510 lb-ft torque. This is for a 2022 HO motor. Not so sure todays six bangers can be put in the same category as the six bangers of 2011.

Those numbers are ONLY for the motor. As stated, there is a weight factor also to consider. As, you current TV has a towing capacity of just over 12000 lbs. The 150 has 10500. My tt is 27 ft weighing in about the same as yours total dry. My hitch weight is rated at 500lbs. Yes you add more weight for the added items you put in. As was stated, your money. Make informed decisions. Do your research.

[wegone]

Good stuff guys, so much knowledge here.

I haven't scaled this new trailer, but I did the old trailer and I recall having way more than 20% cushion with the numbers.

I like the weight of the truck, just have that nagging doubt of being pushed around with a 150. No doubt the 2nd gen 10 speed can pull it.

I really have no complaints on the current TV, not a dent on her, not rip on her interior.... think I'll just keep her until/if, I have a need to address it later.

Also with the sketchy economy, who knows what is going to happen if a recession hits hard and folks need to dump their toys and stuff.

[NMRandy]

Be aware that the F-150 will not have as good of brakes as the F-250, and you will be more dependent on the trailer brakes to stop in an emergency situation.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by NMRandy

Be aware that the F-150 will not have as good of brakes as the F-250, and you will be more dependent on the trailer brakes to stop in an emergency situation.

In addition, the F150 has a semi-floating rear axle vs the F250 full-floating rear axle. If you've ever seen (or experienced) a rear axle shaft loss due to the "retaining C clamp" failure on a semi-floating rear axle, you'll have another potential catastrophic failure that "could" (not will) occur when you load a semi-floating rear axle to "near the RAWR"...

https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/full-f...floating-axle/

[NMRandy]

Some 3/4 tons have "semi float" rear axles also. Don't know that I have seen or even heard of a "C" clip failure in a lot of years. A more common failure is the axle bearing itself, since there is only one, and it is much smaller. I have seen it on dirt race cars.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by NMRandy

Some 3/4 tons have "semi float" rear axles also. Don't know that I have seen or even heard of a "C" clip failure in a lot of years. A more common failure is the axle bearing itself, since there is only one, and it is much smaller. I have seen it on dirt race cars.

I don't know of any "current or recent American made HD truck from Ford, GM or RAM that has semi-floating rear axles. I do believe the Nissan "diesel wanna-be" (no intention of insulting any Nissan owners) does/did have a semi-floating axle and all the Toyota "big trucks" as far as I know, have semi-floating axles.

Coming back from North Carolina last week, there was a F150 towing a large boat in West Virginia, parked in a rest area with one rear wheel "extending well beyond the fender well.... So, it does happen.

Looking "objectively" at "heavy towing with a semi-floating rear axle, the "persistent sway loading on the rear axle" would increase the horizontal forces pulling/pushing against that "C clip" and increasing the risk of it coming apart.

I agree, a single "tiny bearing" is also much more vulnerable to failure, so the semi-floating rear axles in most half ton trucks is at greater risk of "coming apart for a variety of causes" than is the full floating rear axle on HD trucks.

All that said, someone with an F150 may tow hundreds of thousands of miles without an axle failure, but the risk of failure (probability of failure) is greater with a semi-floating rear axle than with a full floating axle. When you add the trailer tongue "swaying with the trailer" and applying greater side forces to the tires, you increase the forces on that C clip and increase the risk of the C clip eventually failing. All of which likely would never happen without the trailer sway "pushing on that "itty bitty C clip"... (which is why you see it in dirt racers and other vehicles with "increased horizontal forces on the rear axle C clips.

[NMRandy]

Toyota is more of a full float design. It has an outer bearing that is retained by a locking ring, and a retaining clip next to the outer bearing, (I know because I have changed quite a few of them due to differential oil leaks at the axle seal, and the bearing has to be removed to change the seal). I have a friend with a 2001 GMC HD2500, Ext cab, short box, 6.0L, auto, that has semi float rear axles in it. I have another friend that has a 2001 Dodge 2500, Cummins, 2wd, Ext cab, long box that has semi float rear axles. Both are 8600 - 8800 GVW trucks. I had a 1992 Chevrolet G20 van that had 5 bolt wheels on it, and a very small differential, 8.5" I think, that I pulled a lot of trailer with, and the rear end started making noise at about 80k. I sold it before I had to fix it. I don't think the big 3 build anything with "semi-float" axles any more, other than the half ton pickups.