RV Park Power Issues

[hlh1]

I shut everything down in the RV and reset the EMS. When the EMS came back up it showed 126 VAC and 0 amps. I turned on the AC and it dropped to 115 VAC at 15 amps. Added the hot water heater, fridge, and the EMS showed 108 at 27 amps.



My volt ohm meter is supposed to measure AC and DC amps through the loop/clamp, but does not seem to work when I camp the feed wire to the RV. I'm thinking it would like to see just the hot lead and not the 3 wires running together in the sheath. The VAC reading on the meter agrees within 1 volt of the EMS.

[flybouy]

The Amp clamp will only work when clamped around the line wire only. You may be able to get around the black wire in the panel that feeds the main brealer.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I shut everything down in the RV and reset the EMS. When the EMS came back up it showed 126 VAC and 0 amps. I turned on the AC and it dropped to 115 VAC at 15 amps. Added the hot water heater, fridge, and the EMS showed 108 at 27 amps.



My volt ohm meter is supposed to measure AC and DC amps through the loop/clamp, but does not seem to work when I camp the feed wire to the RV. I'm thinking it would like to see just the hot lead and not the 3 wires running together in the sheath. The VAC reading on the meter agrees within 1 volt of the EMS.

Well on a 30 amp pedestal either run the HW or refer on gas, your will be a lot happier, and so will your AC.

This is why having a 50 amp panel in the RV is so much better.

Likely not a power company issue, most likely park wiring that just meets code when the park was built.
getting 108 volts at a 27 amp draw is not ideal, you can just drop the reffer or HW and be fine.

We park host, and on a 300 amp I will run the refer and HW on gas. We also cook on gas, and will only go through a 30# tank in 3 to 4 weeks.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well on a 30 amp pedestal either run the HW or refer on gas, your will be a lot happier, and so will your AC.

This is why having a 50 amp panel in the RV is so much better.

Likely not a power company issue, most likely park wiring that just meets code when the park was built.
getting 108 volts at a 27 amp draw is not ideal, you can just drop the reffer or HW and be fine.

We park host, and on a 300 amp I will run the refer and HW on gas. We also cook on gas, and will only go through a 30# tank in 3 to 4 weeks.

I've only had the TT since last December and I am learning much from this board. I posted this thread to understand if this kind of power is "normal" and it sounds like this is normal. I realize I can't run everything all at once, as it totals more than 30 amps, but it sounds like I should be able to get 120 VAC, or close, with 30 amps. I can see that the infrastructure here at this park is old and should be upgraded.



Yes, we've been running LP for the HW and Fridge occasionally and probably should do this more often.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I've only had the TT since last December and I am learning much from this board. I posted this thread to understand if this kind of power is "normal" and it sounds like this normal. I realize I can't run everything all at once, as it totals more than 30 amps, but it sounds like I should be able to get 120 VAC, or close, with 30 amps. I can see that the infrastructure here at this park is old and should be upgraded.



Yes, we've been running LP for the HW and Fridge occasionally and probably should do this more often.

I think you're at that crossroad we all encounter when traveling with the RV; like the place but it's just not "perfect" in every respect. You have a park power issue I'm relatively sure - it's not built out for the load it's getting. You like it there and would like to stay. I would guess they aren't going to upgrade the park power so you're left with that crossroad. IF you can power things off something else like the water heater and fridge on gas you can cut your demand/load. You have 30A to work with so that limits you right off the bat. Put the fridge and water heater on gas and leave it. Limit your use of high draw items. Don't run 2 heavy draw items at once; microwave, hairdryer, coffee maker, curling iron, A/C etc. Remember your converter is always in the background pulling amps as well so you have to be judicious in what you use and when. Your EMS is taking care of you when the voltage is too low but that's not cool (to me) if I'm wanting my a/c for cold air. And yes, you should be able to get 120vac pulling 30A...IF the park power can support it and apparently it can't.

[LHaven]

I have a slot with this problem. It's a 30A outlet on a 60A branch circuit that's 200' from the main box. I've determined that the resistance of the neutral over that distance is enough to raise its voltage a few volts when an RV is pulling a lot of current on the circuit. i know this because the voltage on the other leg of the 240v feed actually increases due to the neutral drift in the other direction. I need to either superclean the connections to both breaker boxes or (if that doesn't do it) replace the 200' cable with a larger gauge (which is going to involve a bigger conduit, and I'm not up for that). So I went for the third solution which is not to rent that spot during air conditioning season.

I mentioned all this because your campground may have the same issue.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I think you're at that crossroad we all encounter when traveling with the RV; like the place but it's just not "perfect" in every respect. You have a park power issue I'm relatively sure - it's not built out for the load it's getting. You like it there and would like to stay. I would guess they aren't going to upgrade the park power so you're left with that crossroad. IF you can power things off something else like the water heater and fridge on gas you can cut your demand/load. You have 30A to work with so that limits you right off the bat. Put the fridge and water heater on gas and leave it. Limit your use of high draw items. Don't run 2 heavy draw items at once; microwave, hairdryer, coffee maker, curling iron, A/C etc. Remember your converter is always in the background pulling amps as well so you have to be judicious in what you use and when. Your EMS is taking care of you when the voltage is too low but that's not cool (to me) if I'm wanting my a/c for cold air. And yes, you should be able to get 120vac pulling 30A...IF the park power can support it and apparently it can't.

Danny, you've really hit this on the head with an excellent synopsis of the whole situation, and a good solution. The HW and Fridge are on LP this morning.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by LHaven

I have a slot with this problem. It's a 30A outlet on a 60A branch circuit that's 200' from the main box. I've determined that the resistance of the neutral over that distance is enough to raise its voltage a few volts when an RV is pulling a lot of current on the circuit. i know this because the voltage on the other leg of the 240v feed actually increases due to the neutral drift in the other direction. I need to either superclean the connections to both breaker boxes or (if that doesn't do it) replace the 200' cable with a larger gauge (which is going to involve a bigger conduit, and I'm not up for that). So I went for the third solution which is not to rent that spot during air conditioning season.

I mentioned all this because your campground may have the same issue.

I can see that I'm over 200 feet from the pole transformer, and I bet the underground plant is old and needs replacing. Next year I have reservation at this same park but at a newer location. If I remember I'll report on what I find.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I can see that I'm over 200 feet from the pole transformer, and I bet the underground plant is old and needs replacing. Next year I have reservation at this same park but at a newer location. If I remember I'll report on what I find.

Just be prepared if you find the same conditions. You haven't given a real clues on the park so even though the section may be newer doesn't mean guarantee the issue won't be there as well. My previous posts on causes can still be evident. In more remote areas, i.e. areas of low population, the utility company may not find it's economical to upgrade their service grid to support a short duration spike in usage. Those electric grids are built with a certain amount of expected growth. In remote areas it may have been as long as 50+ years ago when folks didn't use nearly as much electricity.

Today's home owners and campers are power hogs in comparison to the "average" 50+ years ago. Often it's in those more remote areas where the cg may have their maintenance man ( or the owner) adding 50 Amp pedestals or "extending" service over to a couple of new sites that they added on their own. So bottom line, the issue could follow the "new section" if it was improperly installed. Certainly worth a try but don't be devastated if that doesn't solve the problem. Hope it works out for you.

[JRTJH]

Let's look at it in a bit of a different perspective.....

The park "management" has already expressed that they are not interested in "your power problems"... They, apparently have said that they won't investigate to see if there's a problem and have no interest in troubleshooting to determine if there's a park problem....

Let's "extrapolate that a bit"....

What happens if there's a sewer backup? Or a comtaminated fresh water issue where that sewer contaminates the fresh water supply ??

It looks like this park has transitioned from a "we'll take care of you" to a "pay us and just be quiet" kind of park....

I'd spend my money elsewhere... Same with any other business where I spend money. If they're not interested in making sure I'm safe when using their facility, I ain't going to darken their door.... I wouldn't eat at a restaurant with roaches crawling around on the floor, I wouldn't park in a hardware store parking lot with potholes and disrepaired parking spots and I sure wouldn't plug my trailer into a low voltage condition or "endure 15 amp service" when I'm paying for (and expected to get) adequate power to run my 30 amp trailer....

As for using the water heater and refrigerator on gas to "conserve the electricity for the air conditioner".... If I'm paying for electric power, why should I also pay for propane because the campground isn't providing what they advertised to provide and what they're charging me for ??? I agree with power management to conserve the 30 amps for MY benefit, but to be "forced to use my propane because the park power is not providing the expected 30 amps??? That's an entirely different issue.

YMMV

[hlh1]

We are staying at the frisco woods campground in Frisco North Carolina. I'll reply more later. Currently we're at the beach.

[wiredgeorge]

Well, checked out reviews on campgroundreviews.com and there were no other mentions of power issues. The park's upkeep was kind of questionable but no mentions of power problems. Curious. At the prices they charge, wouldn't expect power issues.

https://campgrounds.rvlife.com/regio...ampground-6792

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Let's look at it in a bit of a different perspective.....

The park "management" has already expressed that they are not interested in "your power problems"... They, apparently have said that they won't investigate to see if there's a problem and have no interest in troubleshooting to determine if there's a park problem....

Let's "extrapolate that a bit"....

What happens if there's a sewer backup? Or a comtaminated fresh water issue where that sewer contaminates the fresh water supply ??

It looks like this park has transitioned from a "we'll take care of you" to a "pay us and just be quiet" kind of park....

I'd spend my money elsewhere... Same with any other business where I spend money. If they're not interested in making sure I'm safe when using their facility, I ain't going to darken their door.... I wouldn't eat at a restaurant with roaches crawling around on the floor, I wouldn't park in a hardware store parking lot with potholes and disrepaired parking spots and I sure wouldn't plug my trailer into a low voltage condition or "endure 15 amp service" when I'm paying for (and expected to get) adequate power to run my 30 amp trailer....

As for using the water heater and refrigerator on gas to "conserve the electricity for the air conditioner".... If I'm paying for electric power, why should I also pay for propane because the campground isn't providing what they advertised to provide and what they're charging me for ??? I agree with power management to conserve the 30 amps for MY benefit, but to be "forced to use my propane because the park power is not providing the expected 30 amps??? That's an entirely different issue.

YMMV

John,

Overall I agree completely. That's one of the reasons I posted this thread is because I'm paying for 30 amps and don't want to pay extra with LP.


The second reason I posted this I have a lot to learn about RV's and campgrounds and you and other thread contributors have helped me greatly.


But, we like this location and there's really not much else in the area to stay at. Rodanthe has KOA and some other RV campgrounds but they're too expensive, more than here, and they're a sea of concrete. The Outer Banks has become quite expensive.


In early October we're going to try dry camping at the Frisco campground run by the National Park system, or the NC park system. It's only around $29 per night and I'll have a small generator. It will be a new experience not to have any connections.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Well, checked out reviews on campgroundreviews.com and there were no other mentions of power issues. The park's upkeep was kind of questionable but no mentions of power problems. Curious. At the prices they charge, wouldn't expect power issues.

https://campgrounds.rvlife.com/regio...ampground-6792

I guess I need to provide my review and include the power issue and the wifi is impossible when the park is full.


I added my review.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by hlh1

I guess I need to provide my review and include the power issue and the wifi is impossible when the park is full.


I added my review.

A lot of campers don't bother because the good and bad relative to a park fades as soon as they are out the gate. I find reviews very helpful especially if they are fairly current. Old reviews where someone complains about the manager being grumpy and are 6 years old probably do not reflect the manager's current disposition (etc).

[hlh1]

For Giggles I tested the line again at 27 amps and received 108 volts ac.

[LHaven]

Do you have a 50A outlet on the same box? It would be instructive to read volts on both legs when your rig is pulling 27A. On one, you'll see 108V of course. If you see 128V on the other, your problem is a high-resistance neutral. This isn't necessarily a "distance from the transformer" thing, it is often a "wiring between the central breaker box and your site" thing.

[JRTJH]

Thinking outloud here, but where are you testing the voltage when your EMS is reading 27 amps????? If you're testing at an outlet inside the trailer, you're not testing your "input power source" but are testing the trailer system. I'm not suggesting that you do or don't have a trailer power problem or that you do or don't have a park power problem.. What I'm saying is that if you're using a volt meter INSIDE the trailer, you are measuring everything, park power, shore power cord, shore power plug/outlet, EMS "through power", main circuit breaker and branch circuit breaker in the trailer power center AND the wiring to that outlet. If it's not reading correct voltage, the question is "where is the problem?".... It could be any of the above.....

For "grins and giggles", when your EMS is reading 27 amps and the trailer outlet or the EMS voltage monitor is reading 108 VAC, walk outside with the volt meter and read the voltage on the 15 amp utility outlet in the campground power pedestal. I'd suspect that if it is also reading 108 VAC, then the issue is with the campground.... But, if that outlet (which is not connected to your trailer) is reading 120-125 VAC, then you just might have a problem with your shore power cord or with any of the connections INSIDE your trailer, from the shore power cord connector, EMS connections, lug connections in the trailer power center or even a bad circuit breaker.....

If, on the other hand, both the trailer outlet AND the power pedestal 120 utility outlet have the same 108 VAC present, then the problem is the campground power.

It would be unfortunate for you to "burn bridges with the campground" when the problem isn't theirs, but is something within your trailer.....

Here's a couple of photos of a 50/30 amp pedestal and a 30/20 amp pedestal. On both, you can see the 110 VAC utility outlet. That's the outlet where I'd check for voltage. If it's normal when the trailer outlets are reading low, then the issue likely isn't the park power.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Do you have a 50A outlet on the same box? It would be instructive to read volts on both legs when your rig is pulling 27A. On one, you'll see 108V of course. If you see 128V on the other, your problem is a high-resistance neutral. This isn't necessarily a "distance from the transformer" thing, it is often a "wiring between the central breaker box and your site" thing.

No, I do not have a 50A in the same box.

[hlh1]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Thinking outloud here, but where are you testing the voltage when your EMS is reading 27 amps????? If you're testing at an outlet inside the trailer, you're not testing your "input power source" but are testing the trailer system. I'm not suggesting that you do or don't have a trailer power problem or that you do or don't have a park power problem.. What I'm saying is that if you're using a volt meter INSIDE the trailer, you are measuring everything, park power, shore power cord, shore power plug/outlet, EMS "through power", main circuit breaker and branch circuit breaker in the trailer power center AND the wiring to that outlet. If it's not reading correct voltage, the question is "where is the problem?".... It could be any of the above.....

For "grins and giggles", when your EMS is reading 27 amps and the trailer outlet or the EMS voltage monitor is reading 108 VAC, walk outside with the volt meter and read the voltage on the 15 amp utility outlet in the campground power pedestal. I'd suspect that if it is also reading 108 VAC, then the issue is with the campground.... But, if that outlet (which is not connected to your trailer) is reading 120-125 VAC, then you just might have a problem with your shore power cord or with any of the connections INSIDE your trailer, from the shore power cord connector, EMS connections, lug connections in the trailer power center or even a bad circuit breaker.....

If, on the other hand, both the trailer outlet AND the power pedestal 120 utility outlet have the same 108 VAC present, then the problem is the campground power.

It would be unfortunate for you to "burn bridges with the campground" when the problem isn't theirs, but is something within your trailer.....

Here's a couple of photos of a 50/30 amp pedestal and a 30/20 amp pedestal. On both, you can see the 110 VAC utility outlet. That's the outlet where I'd check for voltage. If it's normal when the trailer outlets are reading low, then the issue likely isn't the park power.

Hi John, Unless I've stated otherwise in this thread I'm reading the VAC and Amps off of the EMS. I'll do as you suggest and measure the 120 VAC outlet at the pedestal when I get a chance and let you know.


Well darn, there is no 120 VAC outlet on this pedestal. Only the 30 amp outlet.