Water through light above bed @ 1:30 AM

[KevinRC]

Clear formula is CARB compliant for use in California. Developed specifically for RV use, ProFlex Flexible RV Sealant is more elastic than silicone sealants, and has superior adhesion as well. Tripolymer formula displaces water that might be hiding in seams and joints, and ensures a watertight seal. Bonds to virtually every RV material, even when damp, oily or frozen. Long lasting, durable and paintable. Excellent adhesion, even when damp! Superior UV resistance. Mfr. 5 year warranty.

Features:CARB compliant
Will not crack
Exceptional flexibility
No dirt pickup
Mildew resistant

[KevinRC]

Clear formula is CARB compliant for use in California. Developed specifically for RV use, ProFlex Flexible RV Sealant is more elastic than silicone sealants, and has superior adhesion as well. Tripolymer formula displaces water that might be hiding in seams and joints, and ensures a watertight seal. Bonds to virtually every RV material, even when damp, oily or frozen. Long lasting, durable and paintable. Excellent adhesion, even when damp! Superior UV resistance. Mfr. 5 year warranty.

Features:CARB compliant
Will not crack
Exceptional flexibility
No dirt pickup
Mildew resistant

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

After cleaning up the trim I used some alcohol on the interface between the front body and roof.
Opinions are welcome, but it is not looking good...

Actually, this looks like good news to me, as far as the upcoming job goes. You clearly found a problem, the old caulk looks clean and bondable, and now all you have to do is cover it all again (center all the way out to overlap the edges) with self-leveling Dicor or Alpha and you should have a very watertight joint for all next year (when it's time to check again).

As far as what old damage you may be harboring in your ceiling, it's already there, and it is what it is. Caulk today, worry about that at your leisure.

[KevinRC]

After doing a couple hours worth of research and watching videos, I have determined that Dicor is the product that I need in order to reseal OVER the existing product.



I will be using the 501 to address what I found yesterday. The crack was in the middle (not the edge) of whatever product was used before.



I figure if I address the valleys (see picture), that this will hopefully prevent what I had found from happening again, well at least THIS year.



Thank you all for your input.

[KevinRC]

Started cleaning off the old caulking. Came out better than I expected and where, in some spots are much whiter than others, I figure it is where is has been "touched up" over time.



I have a question:


For the bead between the metal trim and roof I should use the 505 NON-leveling product. Correct? I think I saw that in a post before but not sure how to go back and look while composing this message.



No matter as as a previous reply said they keep a tube of 3 different types.



Here are some before and after pictures. I am only 1/3 of the way done but at least the Camping Store will be open.



Anybody "Lichen" the picture of the TV Antenna?

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

Hello All,



While in CT, we needed the rain, it came down in buckets last night with a strong wind.



Needless to say, I am in need of some advice.



I have attached pictures and it would appear to me that the heavier "caulk" was kinda made for an RV (where the aluminum front meets the actual roof. I see some regular clear caulk (on the side edges) which I assume that the previous owner had put on.



I have read about EternaBond Tape, similar to FlexSeal tape as well as one person used the liquid FlexSeal to do the whole roof.


Warm and dry weather forecast for the next 4 days (Thank the Lord) and I want to get this addressed.





All suggestions and comments are most welcomed.

I started seeing these kind splits on the self leveling sealant after 3 years. I perform an annual detailed inspection of the roof sealant and have almost covered all the places with at least one overlap. I'm sure a couple years from now I will have to remove the 2 layers of sealant and start fresh. The roof inspections should be never ending.

Good luck and leave no stone unturned when it comes to water leaks.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

For the bead between the metal trim and roof I should use the 505 NON-leveling product. Correct?

Self-leveling is for horizontal roof expanses. The non-self-leveling is for vertical sidewalls where it has to stay put. Think of it as honey on bread: use the self-leveling except in areas where it would slide down and ooze off.

[KevinRC]

I appreciate your information and sentiments.



As I a a first time owner, I need ALL the help I can get.



@65 years of age, I am certainly, NOT wet behind the ears in regards to mechanics, electrical, home remodeling.I do NOT do plumbing because when water goes where it should not, I do NOT want to be responsible. Some have asked, well you do electrical and it can burn down your house..Ah, I say, in that respect, I know what I am doing!


I have my own opinions..Oh wow, go figure...


I just wanted to show you appreciation.



There have been responses that have been, how shall we say, not so much so. But such is life..


Take care and all the best to you and yours.

Kevin

[KevinRC]

I did the "self-leveling" Dicor 501. Despite what I have read, IMO, "self leveling" is just that, level it your self.



Before and after pics.

[KevinRC]

Here they are

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

I did the "self-leveling" Dicor 501. Despite what I have read, IMO, "self leveling" is just that, level it your self.

It's self leveling over days and weeks. If you stay up to watch for Santa Claus, he'll never boil.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

I did the "self-leveling" Dicor 501. Despite what I have read, IMO, "self leveling" is just that, level it your self.



Before and after pics.

You'll probably want to go back and review that dicor after it has cured. Spread too thin and you may have voids, cracks or pinholes. You are in Milford, FL right? Put it on thickly covering the seams then let it spread. It doesn't do it immediately but in your type of weather it will thin down and spread out pretty quickly. I'm posting a link to a quick video (there are many) of applying it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...id:DiykgIQrodc

[KevinRC]

I am in Milford, CT where today it was near 70, right now 51 and I was trying to beat the forecast of rain coming in around 5PM.



I guess patience is a virtue.



In previous pictures there were peaks and valleys and looked terrible so I did fill those in as well as some placed some near the trim that had not been filled at all. Maybe they did not use self-leveling?



Anyway, You make good points all the way around.



I just did not want to leave some of the old and new showing which was a stark contrast, so yes I did put a thin coat in places over the top of the top of the old in places that had what appeared to be a good foundation just dicolored. It just looked terrible.



Since checking the roof is a yearly item, I will have to see how it ALL held up next year.



Thank you so much for your input.



I am learning slow but sure, there are just so many things to have to do.


Tomorrow is mount the backup camera day. I did not purchase Furrion as they did not have a license plate option which I would like to have when backing under the tongue.



I will be looking through the forums on advice on mounting etc. etc.



Thanks again!
Kevin

[KJJ]

Had (I hope) a roof leak in my new Passport 238ML a few years back. In retrospect the poor seal from the factory, where the front bead actually veered away from the seam, should have been addressed by a warranty claim instead of me, ignorant of how bad a leak can be, just pushing the warm goo back the couple mm into the seam. A little water in my light but the main leak appeared in the front right overhead and side cabinets, with a little separation of the ceiling wallpaper.
Too late for me, but I took it back to the dealer and said do whatever it takes to seal it up tight, which they did by removing and resealing all the top seams.
No leaks now, but later the effects of the leak showed themselves in a puckered looked to to front upper aluminum skin and a spongy floor from the entry to near the opposite cabinet, covered with a thick piece.of plywood.
Again, she's 100% functional and got well used this weekend. So i recommend getting a pro to fix it, FWIW.

[tallen]

Looks good, and good luck with he camera install.

[KevinRC]

I have some water bubbles on the ceiling, Have left the light hanging down to do the best I can to dry out what water got in.



I figure the best route is to slit the bubbles, let it dry and the re-paint. Can ANYONE tell that I am just so so much looking forward to this? NOT!