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Old 02-15-2023, 08:39 PM   #1
Dacheedah
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Bumpy Walls - water damage and mold

Following a small leak on the slideout roof that left me with bumpy walls. The bumps are mold, so now I have stripped out the inside of my slideout and gathering materials for a rebuild.
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Old 02-16-2023, 04:20 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by dacheedah View Post
following a small leak on the slideout roof that left me with bumpy walls. The bumps are mold, so now i have stripped out the inside of my slideout and gathering materials for a rebuild.

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Old 02-16-2023, 07:13 AM   #3
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Yikes! this will be a great learning post for others. Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2023, 08:53 AM   #4
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So far I have the interior paneling removed and sprayed fungicide on remaining surfaces. I do have a friend that does mold remediation on houses and his advice is to dry the sides and scrub any sign of mold and spray with a fungicide and threw in mold fogging with the furnace blower running. I have worked in construction as a framer and finish carpenter and have a lathe mill, surface grinder and a couple welders so the tooling is not an issue. I will say it looks like an erector set from the inside with simple construction.

Inside, I started with removing the furniture, the worst water damage was on the outside paneling hidden by the couch. As they were removed they were cleaned outside and then stocked in the garage. Some screws in the outside wall had rust on them and again each piece had the fasteners labeled and stocked with them.

I have removed the molding and frame and as pieces were removed each piece and position was labeled and marked on the piece it covered. The trim is finish nailed with a thin double sided tape along the edges and pried off easily, I am using a plastic automotive pry tool.

Now with everything out of the way I have the slideout all the way in and pulled the carpet up. The carpet has a white powder underneath in it that my friend said appeared to be baking soda. The deck has some water staining and is a solid piece 12' long. This is cleaned and will be sealed before reassembly.

I took a trip to Elkart to pick up some paneling and other supplys for the rebuild. With supplys stocked I need to plan and work around the weather, work, family . . .

Construction of the slideout:

The floor is made from one 12' piece of 3/4" plywood with the inside of the slideout being tapered.

Sidewalls are 1" x 1 1/2" aluminum tube set with the wall thickness being 1". These are hung walls with thin fiberglass insulation that was glued to the paneling. It mostly was wet and sagged to the bottom of the wall cavity. The paneling was nailed with finish nails. The paneling came right off these in one piece with little effort. There was 3/8" plywood backer screwed inside to where the cabinet secured to the wall.

Back wall is a sips wall and has 1X1 aluminum frame, the frame is 12' wide and has one 1 x 1 stud at 6' The foam is 1" polystyrene foam glued. Each piece of paneling was carefully scraped off and the paneling that had water damage was by far the most difficult to remove. I did around the window last and when the frame was removed I will remark that the windows actually add a lot of structure to this wall so they were replaced until I am ready to start gluing in paneling. This wall also had 3" wide 24 ga l galvanized strips glued and sandwiched to the foam and paneling as a backer where anything was screwed on the wall, reason for the rust. I have inspected the sidewall and see no outside delamination at this point.

The roof is 17ga aluminum tube framing with the header being a double 1 1/2X 1 1/2 tube , the outside header tube has a wood filler inside. The rafters 1" x 1 1/2" tube set on edge so the roof is 1 1/2" deep with 1/4" plywood on top and 1/8" paneling underneath. There is a 3/8" plywood backer for the lights on the paneling and it was fastened with 3/4" long 16 ga trim nails.
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Old 02-18-2023, 06:55 PM   #5
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Wow, you are really getting after it.
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Old 03-02-2023, 04:23 PM   #6
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Just an update that I have scraped all the remaining insulation from the back wall filon / fiberglass. It is a time consuming task and I am on a total strip down and rebuild of the slideout. My tool has mostly been a oscillating tool with a scraper blade followed up by lite sanding.

I did order some 3m 1357 for the outside lamination. I have the materials for the inside portion and will start on that first. Once completed I will let it sit for fourty-eight hours before the install.

In the mean time I have the side walls to work on and frames, the frames have tons of fasteners in the form of 3/4" nails and staples. Once removed I am running a floppy disc over the frame to remove any remaining adhesive or wood.

Work, family, weather and the old supply chain issues are slowing progress down
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Old 03-05-2023, 10:41 AM   #7
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cleaning up the filon siding

When the outside wall was removed it basically fell apart. The filon had no sign of delam from the outside and this is where I should have gone aroung tapping on it. I decided I would scrape the damaged luaun from the fiberglass / filon siding so it could be reused. I did make measurements , pictures and drawings to rebuild the wall. I will say while scraping it down mold was also on the surface of the siding and into the layer of wood. I am not sure a proper relamination could take place in a delamination if the lauan was compromised and that is just my opinion. Oddly the wood was easier to scrape from the few areas where there was no damage than where there was damage. My tool of choice was an oscillating tool with a scraper blade followed by a ro sander.
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Old 03-05-2023, 11:16 AM   #8
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Bumpy Walls - water damage and mold

Here are some pictures Attachment 1Click image for larger version

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Old 03-05-2023, 02:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
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here are some pictures Attachment 1Attachment 43209





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Old 03-06-2023, 12:39 PM   #10
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Youíre doing good! Keep posting pics as the project proceeds.
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Old 03-06-2023, 07:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dacheedah View Post
So far I have the interior paneling removed and sprayed fungicide on remaining surfaces. I do have a friend that does mold remediation on houses and his advice is to dry the sides and scrub any sign of mold and spray with a fungicide and threw in mold fogging with the furnace blower running. I have worked in construction as a framer and finish carpenter and have a lathe mill, surface grinder and a couple welders so the tooling is not an issue. I will say it looks like an erector set from the inside with simple construction.

Inside, I started with removing the furniture, the worst water damage was on the outside paneling hidden by the couch. As they were removed they were cleaned outside and then stocked in the garage. Some screws in the outside wall had rust on them and again each piece had the fasteners labeled and stocked with them.

I have removed the molding and frame and as pieces were removed each piece and position was labeled and marked on the piece it covered. The trim is finish nailed with a thin double sided tape along the edges and pried off easily, I am using a plastic automotive pry tool.

Now with everything out of the way I have the slideout all the way in and pulled the carpet up. The carpet has a white powder underneath in it that my friend said appeared to be baking soda. The deck has some water staining and is a solid piece 12' long. This is cleaned and will be sealed before reassembly.

I took a trip to Elkart to pick up some paneling and other supplys for the rebuild. With supplys stocked I need to plan and work around the weather, work, family . . .

Construction of the slideout:

The floor is made from one 12' piece of 3/4" plywood with the inside of the slideout being tapered.

Sidewalls are 1" x 1 1/2" aluminum tube set with the wall thickness being 1". These are hung walls with thin fiberglass insulation that was glued to the paneling. It mostly was wet and sagged to the bottom of the wall cavity. The paneling was nailed with finish nails. The paneling came right off these in one piece with little effort. There was 3/8" plywood backer screwed inside to where the cabinet secured to the wall.

Back wall is a sips wall and has 1X1 aluminum frame, the frame is 12' wide and has one 1 x 1 stud at 6' The foam is 1" polystyrene foam glued. Each piece of paneling was carefully scraped off and the paneling that had water damage was by far the most difficult to remove. I did around the window last and when the frame was removed I will remark that the windows actually add a lot of structure to this wall so they were replaced until I am ready to start gluing in paneling. This wall also had 3" wide 24 ga l galvanized strips glued and sandwiched to the foam and paneling as a backer where anything was screwed on the wall, reason for the rust. I have inspected the sidewall and see no outside delamination at this point.

The roof is 17ga aluminum tube framing with the header being a double 1 1/2X 1 1/2 tube , the outside header tube has a wood filler inside. The rafters 1" x 1 1/2" tube set on edge so the roof is 1 1/2" deep with 1/4" plywood on top and 1/8" paneling underneath. There is a 3/8" plywood backer for the lights on the paneling and it was fastened with 3/4" long 16 ga trim nails.
Did you get RV specific paneling, with the wall paper on the one side? Or just standard paneling. And if so where in Elkhart for further reference. I live in the town next door.
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Old 03-06-2023, 08:18 PM   #12
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Wow! About 30 years ago I had to replace the floor in an old 5th wheel we bought cheap, nothing near as involved as your project & I'm fairly certain I wouldn't do it again, especially not at my age.
Good job!
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Old 03-08-2023, 08:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Did you get RV specific paneling, with the wall paper on the one side? Or just standard paneling. And if so where in Elkhart for further reference. I live in the town next door.

I made the drive to Elkhart and itís just a little over two hours for us but shipping is the killer. The last camper I owned was a Forest River stick n tin that was in an accident on transit to deliver. The parts to fix it were not crazy expensive but shipping was insane. Ordered parts from the supplier and went with a guy that had a contract with a shipper to do body work / repair on campers. Cost me gas and lunch.
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Old 03-08-2023, 08:44 AM   #14
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Wow! About 30 years ago I had to replace the floor in an old 5th wheel we bought cheap, nothing near as involved as your project & I'm fairly certain I wouldn't do it again, especially not at my age.
Good job!

Iídone that to an old Terry travel trailer and then ended up rebuilding the roof. I have learned never to say any job simple and they tend to grow.
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Old 03-08-2023, 01:30 PM   #15
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Professionals like myself are able to accurately gauge how much time a job will take. A half hour job generally takes four hours unless you don't have the correct parts/material and have to make a parts/material run. A two hour job takes two weekends. ETC.
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Old 03-08-2023, 05:15 PM   #16
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Everything is taking much longer and I'm used to that. I have seen people use systems and epoxies to make repairs and eventually did a tear down and rebuild. The parts are not expensive but yeah, it is time consuming and labor intensive. I give props to the technicians out there.
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Old 04-01-2023, 01:47 PM   #17
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Life interrupted and still working on this project. I have the back wall rebuilt, it laid flat in the house two weeks and was moved in the garage. I have ordered new fastners and supplys to refresh everything, ceiling is done and I added another 12v that will run to some usb plugs in addition running 110v to the cabinet over the couch. The ceiling is 1 1/2" thick and I have a piece of plastic flex conduit that is coming out of the ceiling and will exit the roof near the 12v connection. Getting the wire across the roof from the closest plug required a big magnet in a sock and a string with a nut on it. I slipped the nut up in the ceiling and pulled the magnet across.

I have spent free time cleaning up all the metal and removing a combination of butyl, silicone that falls off, some black tacky tar like sealant, old window seals. This slideout has three windows. Two had rubber seals and one window had enough putty tape to seal an entire roof. Looking at the top slideout trim I can see that the eternabond failed in a few places with no butyl anywhere near that trim, this is the same places the wood was mostly gone and screws were badly rusted. I am confident someone has addressed this before me, sort of. The corners had gorilla tape on them and had a tone of clear silicone caulk that came off with little effort.

Because we are this far into it my wife decided to replace the old carpet. I did my best to encourage vinyl flooring and that said she has the new slideout carpet bound and ready to go in. I pulled up carpet inside that would be under the slideout and installed new. Since in back between the recliners there was a cabinet where the wire went . . . I have removed the cabinet and replacing the mouse entry with a plug and we will make a small cover for that.

We had huge storms roll through last night and my helper went on vacation so I am doing little fix it things and organizing for assembly day. .
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Old 04-01-2023, 02:54 PM   #18
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Thanks for the update. Looking forward to you sharing your progress.
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Old 04-21-2023, 03:39 PM   #19
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Hey, Army - Air Force here - thank you for YOUR service.
We all appreciate what you are doing. I have a catastrophic leak and have inside damage as well as mold. Of course the insurance company says it is "normal wear and usage" and won't pay a cent. Mold is the biggest problem. Think I will try the "mold fogging" that you suggested.
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