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Old 03-29-2024, 08:58 PM   #21
wiredgeorge
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In one of my previous campers, I had water overflowing into the refrigerator. Soon found out that mud daubers seemed to like the plastic drain hose. Water condensing off the coil dropped into the tray but had no egress. I found it easier to replace the hose than try and clean it as they are kind of brittle plastic. I used hose similar to the hose that feeds a water pump.
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Old 03-29-2024, 10:56 PM   #22
JRTJH
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There is a "plug with several holes" specifically designed to prevent that sort of thing from happening. In fact, the plug has two functions. First, it slows the escape of cold air from inside the refrigerator by holding water in the tube, which prevents hot air from migrating to the drain pan inside the refrigerator and second, the holes are small enough that even an ant is too large to crawl up the hose.

Here's a link for the plugs: https://www.amazon.com/Aussio-Refrig...zcF9hdGY&psc=1
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Old 03-30-2024, 01:10 PM   #23
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I'll probably stuff insulation around the fridge but definitely want the coils to breath and the hot air from them to be able to escape.
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Old 03-30-2024, 01:37 PM   #24
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Look at the way a residential refrigerator is "vented"... The majority of them vent around the sides and out the bottom (blowing into the room). Very few modern refrigerators even have coils behind the refrigerator that are exposed to the room air. With that design, there's no requirement for ventilation behind the refrigerator. But, it's your trailer so the ultimate "design changes" are up to you.
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Old 03-30-2024, 07:20 PM   #25
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Hope these pictures post'
Here is how I sealed off and insulated the cabinet. The condenser coils on the Magic Chef 10.1 cu/ft fridge are in the sides of the fridge, so the sides get warm and need to have air flow around them. That is why I sealed in back of the fridge so the air has to go up the sides.
Bear in mind the old Dometic fridge has outside air flowing around it also. But you can't block air flow around the sides of the fridge.
I sealed off the inside of the trailer from the cabinet with a combination of foam strip insulation and strips of black Gorilla tap. It has worked very well for me in both cold weather and hot weather...no issues.
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Old 03-30-2024, 07:51 PM   #26
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So you put plywood with insulation against the wall that the side vents are in and then a fan with the top vent open?
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Old 03-30-2024, 07:56 PM   #27
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Hooked water up today previous owner didn't winterize cracked water pump back bathroom water valve shower head and both kitchen sink valves. Ordered some to be sent ahead. Trying to decide if I should tackle fridge here or do it when I get to NC running out of time
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Old 03-31-2024, 06:55 AM   #28
fjr vfr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanS View Post
So you put plywood with insulation against the wall that the side vents are in and then a fan with the top vent open?
I did not add plywood The thick particle board you see on the outer wall was there to begin with I expect they all have similar
There are three fans one big one and two smaller
The duct insulation sticks to the walls and I also stapled it in place
You need the air flow along the sides of the fridge I have no problem with condensation or hot/cold walls The walls were just as exposed with the old fridge
Good luck with it and your water issue
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Old 03-31-2024, 07:58 AM   #29
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Ok thank you. Yeah I have cabinets all around mine but will add something going to pick up a 10.1 criterion from manards today we will see it 26 d 60 tall 24 w
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