First Time Travel Trailer & Truck Owner

[annmarie]

After lots and lots and lots of research (phew!) we finally pulled the trigger on our very first truck and trailer! 2019 RAM 1500 and a 2015 Keystone Springdale 270LE.

We're hoping to move-in full time once we get a remote job lined up and until then we'll be taking trips and possibly living in it this summer/fall (we're from Minnesota), if the weather is decent. We are doing our first road trip for a week next Friday.

We're super excited to be a part of the rv family!

[LHaven]

Welcome! I predict great fun ahead for you, hopefully with a very small number of those mandatory "learning experiences".

[annmarie]

Hah! I feel like we're already well on our way... a stinky hot water heater and a slide out that's tipping too far out!

[Chris P]

Congratulations and Welcome to the forum from New Jersey, Not to bash the 1500 but had and a 2013 and really wasn't up to the task on a2020qb Definitely geared wrong though, Good luck keep us posted ,it's a really nice set up., Upgraded to the 2500 6.4 l

[annmarie]

What's a 2020qb?? Tow capacity for our 1500 is just over 11k and our dry weight for the rig is 7k. So I'm assuming we'll be okay...?!

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by annmarie

What's a 2020qb?? Tow capacity for our 1500 is just over 11k and our dry weight for the rig is 7k. So I'm assuming we'll be okay...?!

Hi annmarie;

I figured this would come up. Recognize the "dry" weight of your trailer is meaningless, as is the "tow" rating for the truck. Neither has ever been seen by your truck I imagine.

Your trailer has a gvw of 9560lbs - much more than your 1500 wants; I can assure you from experience. Tongue weight loaded would approach 1200 lbs.

What do you need to know? The numbers on the door stickers inside your driver door. What is the payload of the truck? You need to deduct 1200 lbs. from that. What is the gvw? The gawr of the front and rear axles?

What kind of WDH/sway control do you have? If it's not one of the best you will not have a fun time. What is the axle ratio on your truck? If it is 3.55, trade it off with that trailer (btdt).

Not to be a downer but there is so much more to pulling an RV than picking that "big ole trailer" that looks so nice then finding a "pickup" that the manufacturer says will "pull" it....so much more.

Post those numbers and lets see where you are. I pulled a 10k gvw trailer with a Ram 1500 (in fact 2) and found they were marginally adequate although over payload. The 2500 fixed that...totally. You might be right on the edge or a bit over - just depends on how you load and what you carry. Let us help.

[annmarie]

Our RAM has a 3.92 rear axle ratio - we didn't consider any less than 3.92 because of how significantly it impacted towing capacity.

We have an Andersen weight distribution hitch.

Our tongue weight is 797lbs + 10-15% of our total cargo. We certainly don't anticipate putting an additional 2000lbs - not even scratching the 2550lbs it can take. So we won't ever tow at 9560lbs.

Tow capacity on the truck is 11,340lbs.
GVWR is 7100lbs.
GAWR front is 3900lbs.
GAWR rear is 4100lbs.

We wouldn't have purchased this truck/trailer combo if we anticipated towing at almost 10,000lbs. We wanted to give ourselves at least a 15% buffer. If we tow it at 8500lbs, a 20% buffer is only 10,200 which we are still well below.

We did a ton of homework prior to our purchase and I'll be damned if this is a bad truck/trailer combo. Because if our research wasn't enough, then no truck/trailer owners could possibly get it right the first time!!

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by annmarie

Our RAM has a 3.92 rear axle ratio - we didn't consider any less than 3.92 because of how significantly it impacted towing capacity.

We have an Andersen weight distribution hitch.

Our tongue weight is 797lbs + 10-15% of our total cargo. We certainly don't anticipate putting an additional 2000lbs - not even scratching the 2550lbs it can take. So we won't ever tow at 9560lbs.

Tow capacity on the truck is 11,340lbs.
GVWR is 7100lbs.
GAWR front is 3900lbs.
GAWR rear is 4100lbs.

We wouldn't have purchased this truck/trailer combo if we anticipated towing at almost 10,000lbs. We wanted to give ourselves at least a 15% buffer. If we tow it at 8500lbs, a 20% buffer is only 10,200 which we are still well below.

We did a ton of homework prior to our purchase and I'll be damned if this is a bad truck/trailer combo. Because if our research wasn't enough, then no truck/trailer owners could possibly get it right the first time!!

If I can point out one thing, and I am not trying to sow discontent, the max tow number you are using is for an empty truck. The max tow number of 11330 they list in the towing guide is the empty weight of the truck subtracted from the gross combined weight rating or GCWR, which is 17000 lbs.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/content/da..._2018-1-31.pdf

When you are towing you are far more likely to be near the loaded weight of your truck, or the gross vehicle weight rating GVWR, than the empty weight. There will be passengers, cargo, firewood, ice chest, generator, tools etc, loaded in the truck.

So in reality the maximum weight you can tow is the GCWR minus the trucks GVWR.

17000-7100=9900 lbs.

The loaded weight of your trailer is somewhere around 9600 lbs if I am remembering correctly. So I don’t think you have the amount of weight cushion that you think you have.

The other number you need to look at is the payload capacity. It’s listed on a sticker inside the drivers door. It says “all occupants and cargo shall not exceed xxxx pounds”. Included in your cargo is the loaded hitch weight of your trailer plus all other cargo and occupants.

For your hitch weight, again you want to use the loaded number or the trailers GVWR of 9600 pounds. The hitch weight is approximately 12 percent of the trailer’s weight or

9600x.12=1152 pounds trailer tongue weight.

I think your payload capacity is somewhere around 1800 pounds and if that is the case, you may be ok.

I guess my main point is it is better to use the loaded numbers when you are figuring out how much you can tow.

You are definitely near the limit of what your truck can handle (if your not over) and the towing performance will probably suffer. My intent with this post was not to tell you that you are wrong, it was just to provide information so you can make the best decision possible. YMMV.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by annmarie

Our RAM has a 3.92 rear axle ratio - we didn't consider any less than 3.92 because of how significantly it impacted towing capacity.

We have an Andersen weight distribution hitch.

Our tongue weight is 797lbs + 10-15% of our total cargo. We certainly don't anticipate putting an additional 2000lbs - not even scratching the 2550lbs it can take. So we won't ever tow at 9560lbs.

Tow capacity on the truck is 11,340lbs.
GVWR is 7100lbs.
GAWR front is 3900lbs.
GAWR rear is 4100lbs.

We wouldn't have purchased this truck/trailer combo if we anticipated towing at almost 10,000lbs. We wanted to give ourselves at least a 15% buffer. If we tow it at 8500lbs, a 20% buffer is only 10,200 which we are still well below.

We did a ton of homework prior to our purchase and I'll be damned if this is a bad truck/trailer combo. Because if our research wasn't enough, then no truck/trailer owners could possibly get it right the first time!!

Well then, congrats on your new rig. I'm absolutely positive we'll never hear any question, at all, about towing, sway or other issues because you got it "right" and no one else can - even though the numbers you quote are the typical novice mistakes. Got it. Happy camping.

[travelin texans]

It's been advised numerous times on this forum & any other rv forum you may want to read that the dry weight of YOUR rv & every rv ever built only applied til the delivery driver added a battery to tow it to the dealers lot & will NEVER EVER weigh that again, so using that number will give you worthless numbers every time.
Once it arrives at the dealership propane bottles, either full or empty, battery/batteries are installed adding at minimum 100 lbs to that "dry weight", then they may add water which fill the water heater that adds 8+ lbs per gallon.
DRY WEIGHT MEANS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!!
The max tow weight of your truck is also meaningless as you'll most likely exceed the payload long before you ever tow the max.
Here's another worthless figure, "half ton towable", most of those rvs in that category are pushing weights for 3/4 ton trucks.
Yes, your truck will tow your rv although probably at or over it's weight limits, but as others have stated if your happy we're tickled pink! As you said you've done your homework, just be VERY careful cause some of your homework was using the wrong numbers.

[FlyingAroundRV]

Just one other consideration on your numbers. As others have pointed out you may be very close or over your truck's limits. If you are over those limits and something bad happens, what will your insurance company do? I'll bet London to a brick that they'll jump on that as their way out of paying. And even though you're no doubt sick of hearing it already, if you are near or over your truck's capacity, the probability of something bad happening rises.
I feel your pain at finding out that your truck may not be sufficient for your trailer. When I first visited these forums, I had my sights set on a 150/1500 sized truck for our 272UFL which is about the same size as your trailer. I too, got jumped on from a great height here and (grudgingly) went instead for a 250 sized HD truck. That cost me an extra $10K and it was a hard sell to my wife. After 3 months touring with our rig, we both recognize that it was good advice.
Sorry to be a downer. Your new truck looks beautiful and no doubt you're just rarin' to get on the road with that beaut new travel trailer. Good luck with it and please keep us posted on how it goes. The people here really do have your best interests at heart with their advice.

[notanlines]

AnnMarie, you've gotten very good advice on this forum, not so when it comes to some of your other sources. We have nothing to gain and you have everything to lose, so to speak. I won't go into the vast number of numbers available to you, that has been covered. I'll bet the commenting members so far are pushing a million miles of towing various trailers. There are probably OTR drivers on this forum with a million all by themselves.
Keep a good attitude, enjoy what you've purchased, look forward to bigger and better. But in your travels realize every day that you are at or over the absolute limit of that Ram. And avoid all brochures, both Dodge AND Keystone!

[Ksupaul]

😂 Read Annemarie’s OP a few days ago and said to myself, can’t wait to see how this one goes in a few days!!

Try replacing your anode rod in your hot water heater if you have one. Also flush it out several times as there could be a lot of sediment in the bottom of it causing some of this smell. Happened and worked for my smelly hot water anyway. Good luck!

[Northofu1]

from Toronto

[ken56]

Please try not to take offense to some comments. They are just being truthful and going by years of experience. Take your truck and trailer NOW to the scale before you pile anything into it. Get the 3 readings you need, truck and trailer WITH the weight distribution hooked up, then WITHOUT the spring bars hooked up, keep the tongue on the ball though, and then the truck alone without the trailer attached at all and all passengers and a full tank of gas and trailer off the scale. That gives you exactly what your combo is as it sits new. Then when you finally get loaded up with all your best stuff and everything you will be taking with you in the bed of the truck go weigh again the same procedure. Then you will know the difference and how much you actually have loaded into the trailer and truck. Note your rear axle weight rating. That will tell the tale.


While you may well be at the upper limits of the truck it will pull it. How it will do on some steep grades who knows. You invested in a good hitch that should be adequate for the tongue weight. Hook up and go and see how it does. That is all you can do. Live and learn.

[annmarie]

Thanks everyone. Appreciate the warm welcome and the feedback.

We plan to do an official weigh-in for our peace of mind and to make sure we’re towing safely for ourselves and everyone on the road.

[newemptynester]

annmarie - welcome to the forum, I am really glad you are here. Enjoy making memories in your new TT. Have a safe and fun summer. Keep us posted on your travels.

[GlampingHippie]

We tow with I think the same truck. Never had any issues HOWEVER the truck honestly NEVER carries more than 2 adults and a tank of gas on board. We never carry water in the trailer tanks and really don't have much stuff in the trailer. (Ya we are probably the only trailer owners you will see with empty cupboards!) It was a decision we made to be able to not have to move to a bigger truck.


Go through the scales with an honest load (everything you think you need/want) in both your trailer & truck. That will tell you the truth. Then make the hard decisions about what you can keep and what has to go.


Make it work & enjoy your ride.
Welcome!!

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by annmarie

We did a ton of homework prior to our purchase and I'll be damned if this is a bad truck/trailer combo. Because if our research wasn't enough, then no truck/trailer owners could possibly get it right the first time!!

Boy, do I hear your pain. I recently decided to run through all the actual numbers to satisfy myself that we are not overtowing. I had to gather numbers from the doorframe, the door edge, and the truck user manual (why aren't they all in one place?) as well as the trailer decal, and that was only half the numbers I needed. I purchased a tongue scale to get that weght, and I'm going to have to visit a truck scale (some 50 miles away) to gather the rest. Only then will I know whether I have good news or bad news. My wife has been insisting that we are well within specs given a single number on the truck brochure, and she's going to be furious if we turn out to be overweight.

It does appear that the manufacturer's single-value tow figure is absolutely useless, and I'm sure there are a lot of people out there who never get it "right."

We don't really carry anything in the truck other than its own fluids, two of us, and two dogs, so at least we aren't preloading ourselves that way.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by ken56

Get the 3 readings you need, truck and trailer WITH the weight distribution hooked up, then WITHOUT the spring bars hooked up, keep the tongue on the ball though, and then the truck alone without the trailer attached at all and all passengers and a full tank of gas and trailer off the scale. That gives you exactly what your combo is as it sits new. Then when you finally get loaded up with all your best stuff and everything you will be taking with you in the bed of the truck go weigh again the same procedure.

And this brings up another question.

The DW hates her TV for other reasons (among them, the rear suicide doors which make it impossible to load groceries in a parking lot) and is talking about upgrading to a new truck anyway. Now, we understand that the tow value on the manufacturer brochure for our current truck is total BS, and the number for any new vehicle will be equally worthless. How do we choose a proper new vehicle when the dealer is certainly not going to let us tow our rig out to the scales to perform all this rigamarole before we buy it?