I currently have a keystone hideout 38 FKDS and I am looking for a way to shutoff/bypass my trailers converter/charger.
I am off the grid and I’m finding this model difficult with solar. I want to be able to use all my plugins, when I plug my trailer direct to my solar inverter I’m stuck having the trailers built in one kick on and eat up my batteries as it’s trying to charge the front one.
I have 2 265w panels, 60 amp charge controller, 6 Trojan T-105 batteries (12volt system) and 2000 pure sine wave inverter.
Currently I have the 110 trailer plug disconnected and am only running lights on my solar batteries, aside from running extension cables and power bars which isn’t ideal for me how can I set it up so I have every plug in on my solar system and and have the trailers inverter disabled without loosing any features.
So, your “plugging” your Trailer into your solar? I don’t follow I guess. Why do you have 2 inverters? Sorry I’m trying to learn all this for myself as week.
I’ve looked at lots of diagrams on sub panels to get just the essentials of 110 on the batteries (no ac)
I’ll keep following. Thanks
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There should be a disconnect between inverter and battery that you don't want charged, I would try that since your solar is actually acting like shore power the way I understand your post. The transformer for charging will still be active and slightly parasitic, but if it isn't connected to a battery, it should be minimal. Is it correct that your solar is a completely different system that you plug into your 30amp shore power?
The best option might be to connect another breaker for just the converter. Another option is to just use the GFI outlets. I believe I have one breaker for GFI and one for converter/non-GFI.
There should be a disconnect between inverter and battery that you don't want charged, I would try that since your solar is actually acting like shore power the way I understand your post. The transformer for charging will still be active and slightly parasitic, but if it isn't connected to a battery, it should be minimal. Is it correct that your solar is a completely different system that you plug into your 30amp shore power?
Yep solar system is separate from trailer ( controller 60amp Tristar, inverter 2000w samlex) in a separate building.
I have front connected to my solar batteries so my dc lights to work.
And yes trailers charging system takes tons of power from my solar batteries.
I’ll double check for a disconnect, i was focused on the breakers and never thought of a disconnect. I’m guessing near the front where original trailer battery was.
The best option might be to connect another breaker for just the converter. Another option is to just use the GFI outlets. I believe I have one breaker for GFI and one for converter/non-GFI.
It’s an option, was hoping to have all plugs functional as kids have tv in their bedroom for the rainy days and for general charging of electronics.
So, your “plugging” your Trailer into your solar? I don’t follow I guess. Why do you have 2 inverters? Sorry I’m trying to learn all this for myself as week.
I’ve looked at lots of diagrams on sub panels to get just the essentials of 110 on the batteries (no ac)
I’ll keep following. Thanks
Yes, plugging my trailer directly to my samlex inverter. Well trying too. It works but the charging system kicks in the more lights I turn on and burns tons of amps from battery banks. Trying to shut this off at the moment.
I think that some of the suggestions the OP is getting are based on confusion about what he has installed vs what posters think he has installed. He initially asked about his "inverter/charger" which I "THINK" he meant to ask about his installed OEM "converter/charger". Through responses, it's become even more unclear whether posters are referring to an "add-on inverter/charger", an add-on inverter to supplement the OEM converter/charger, a add-on charger or if the OP is trying to disconnect his OEM converter/charger so his add-on inverter/charger can replace it while on solar power, but so he can use the OEM converter/charger when connected to shore power.....
So, OP, maybe a clearer explanation of what you have and what you are trying to do (with correct nomenclature for the parts) would benefit those who are trying to understand your current equipment and your end goals.....
I think that some of the suggestions the OP is getting are based on confusion about what he has installed vs what posters think he has installed. He initially asked about his "inverter/charger" which I "THINK" he meant to ask about his installed OEM "converter/charger". Through responses, it's become even more unclear whether posters are referring to an "add-on inverter/charger", an add-on inverter to supplement the OEM converter/charger, a add-on charger or if the OP is trying to disconnect his OEM converter/charger so his add-on inverter/charger can replace it while on solar power, but so he can use the OEM converter/charger when connected to shore power.....
So, OP, maybe a clearer explanation of what you have and what you are trying to do (with correct nomenclature for the parts) would benefit those who are trying to understand your current equipment and your end goals.....
You are correct, rv is oem so converter ( I guess I was saying inverter ).
What would like is to run the complete trailer off my batteries. I would like to plug into my aftermarket solar inverter while shutting off the trailers oem inverter/charging system.
Sorry for the confusion.
And thanks again for all the help, I will edit the original post to the correct term.
I did something similar to what you are doing. The breaker for the converter also powered the non-GFCI plug ins. I pulled the breaker out of the electrical box (they are in pairs) and took it down to my local big box hardware store's electrical section and bought another pair of breakers, as I recall I bought a 15a/15a breaker. My electrical box had a empty spot to put the new breaker in. I split the 2 wires coming off the original breaker (1 for converter and 1 for plug ins) and connected plug ins to the new breaker and left the converter on the original breaker. I did all this with the RV not plugged in and battery disconnected because electricity hurts.
Prior to plugging the RV into my inverter, I put my fridge in "manual" so it does not automatically shift to AC because I don't want it to run on my batteries via the inverter. Additionally, I installed a switch in my little fridge in the outdoor kitchen so I can turn it off instead of unplugging it otherwise it would be running off the battery as well.
Not sure where your converter is located, but aren’t some of them under a bunk/seat, and is plugged into an outlet that you could simply unplug? Sure you’d probably have to remove some screws and a panel...might not be a bad idea to peek in there from time to time anyway...
Or is adding a battery disconnect switch up front an option?
WFCO converters are standard equipment on most Keystone RV's. There are a few trailers that come with a different brand converter, but essentially all of them are "wired the same" as WFCO.
There are two types of wiring options. One has a plug on the end of the 120VAC power input, the other has no plug. Those with plugs simply plug into an outlet adjacent to the power center and those that don't have plugs are simply wired to a circuit breaker in the power center.
It "could be" as simply as wiring an outlet adjacent to the power center with a switched plug. Plug in the converter and when you want it on, turn on the switch, when you want it off, turn off the switch. In the event that your converter doesn't have a plug, simply replace the plug with a "junction box" and wire the converter to the switched power leads (in the junction box, for safety reasons). You could, if you want, use an illuminated switch, so that you know when the converter is powered on or off. It's as simple as that. No need to flip circuit breakers, no need to determine what else is on that same breaker and no need to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
As for the refrigerator, when on "inverter power" switch the refrigerator to LP operation and all the power it will use is some 12 VDC power to operate the control board/interior lights and fans.
When on shore power, turn the converter power switch to ON and switch the refrigerator to AUTO.
Not sure where your converter is located, but aren’t some of them under a bunk/seat, and is plugged into an outlet that you could simply unplug? Sure you’d probably have to remove some screws and a panel...might not be a bad idea to peek in there from time to time anyway...
Or is adding a battery disconnect switch up front an option?
Mine is under the kids desk in their room but it looks hard wired
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