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Old 08-09-2020, 08:14 AM   #21
Mr Mojo
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Originally Posted by bill-e View Post

And, are you sure that the rear toilet flush isn't constantly leaking? It's easy for the toilet flapper to get out of whack and not seal and that might let a leaking flush put clean water into the tank.
This happened to me on an old Class C I had. I parked for an overnight stop, didn't level from side to side and I noticed the toilet running ever so slowly, so slow you couldn't hear it. Apparently it had been doing this even on level ground, but on unlevel ground it became more noticeable.
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Old 08-09-2020, 08:20 AM   #22
Icantdrive55
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Originally Posted by bill-e View Post
I think the last two valve position drawings are both for winterizing. Notice how the other drawings are centered on Power Fill, Dry Camping and City Water then the next two are both opposite Winterizing. I don't understand why two for winterizing unless you have to winterize the two water paths, from the FW Tank and from the hose (which I would think would be the City Water line)

And, are you sure that the rear toilet flush isn't constantly leaking? It's easy for the toilet flapper to get out of whack and not seal and that might let a leaking flush put clean water into the tank.
Absolutely 100% sure. The toilet has not been used in months, matter of fact I have to go add water once in awhile otherwise it evaporates and the seal gets dry.
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Old 08-09-2020, 08:45 AM   #23
sonofcy
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Originally Posted by Icantdrive55 View Post
No worries, from top down it's winterized, freshwater, tank flush. Water is connected correctly.
Aren't there 4 hose connections?
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Old 08-09-2020, 08:48 AM   #24
Icantdrive55
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Originally Posted by sonofcy View Post
Aren't there 4 hose connections?

No. Top is winterize, middle is city water/fresh tank fill, and bottom is black tank flush
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:26 AM   #25
beeje
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I've had several campers and one when the bathroom sink was Plumbed into the black tank. I would bet that's what's happening to yours. Turn all sources of water off and have someone dump a bucket of water down a sink or shower while you hold the toilet valve open and listen see if you can hear water coming in to determine which fixture is plugged into it
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:34 AM   #26
Icantdrive55
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I've had several campers and one when the bathroom sink was Plumbed into the black tank. I would bet that's what's happening to yours. Turn all sources of water off and have someone dump a bucket of water down a sink or shower while you hold the toilet valve open and listen see if you can hear water coming in to determine which fixture is plugged into it


Not the case. The rear bathroom sink is plumbed into the grey tank it shares with the kitchen. The toilet and washer drain at the only things plumbed to the rear black tank, and I don't have a washer/dryer
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:49 AM   #27
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I think you may be misinterpreting the instructions in the photo - those pictorial instructions are only for the "Fresh Water" system - so the "tank flush" referenced at the bottom of the list is for flushing the fresh water tank (like when it gets stale) and has nothing to do with the sewer system tanks.

John is right about the second bath. Our Raptor second bathroom sink drains into Black Tank #2. You should check this - shut off the city water, turn on your pump, and run the sink until you see the levels rise in your sewer tanks. If it goes into the black tank, drain the black tank until completely dry (doesn't drip). Leave the drain open where you can watch it. Turn the water back on. Your leak is likely in either the sink valves or the toilet valve in the second bathroom (as pointed out by others).

I doubt that there would be any potential for a "cross connect" between the fresh water system and the sewer system in the plumbing other than through the drain systems. Cross connections on the supply side would be such a significant legal issue for Keystone that I can't imagine it would ever happen.

Good luck!
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:42 AM   #28
bobbecky
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Even though the label says to turn the WH bypass valve, it will not have anything to do with flushing the black tank. There will be a dedicated line connected to the flush inlet port that goes directly to the flush nozzle via a backflow/air gap valve. There can be NO connection to any fresh water system plumbing to the black tank flush system. This is a one line diagram of our system, looking from the rear of the convenience center, and even though some of the items may be in a different position, the plumbing should be exactly the same. I'm also attaching a photo of the front of our convenience center just so you can see that all the valves and inlets do the same things. The tank flush inlet has a green hose with the spring around it connected on ours, just makes connecting a hose easier. It doesn't even matter if you have city water connected to the rig when flushing the black tank, just like if you were at a dump station that had a hose available that you connected to the tank flush inlet when draining the black tank, so valve positions wouldn't make any difference.
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Old 08-09-2020, 12:16 PM   #29
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you need some hands on help. I'd get to the dealer and have them go over what is what. hopefully they are knowledgeable.
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:28 AM   #30
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Just wondering if those instructions are for flushing the water heater rather than the black tank.

When flushing the black tank, what ever configurations are made in the valve positions would have absolutely no impact on that flush as that is a direct hose connection to the black tank flusher.

By opening the by pass while flushing the water heater, that would stop the heater from trying to fill if city water is hooked up.

Though a possible explanation for the valve instructions, this does not explain the original concern, why the black tank is filling when not in use.

Just curious, does the second black have a separate tank flush or does one connection flush both black tanks?
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