Sprinter 26BHS rear stabilizers

firsttt · 03-15-2015, 03:01 PM

Hi,
Just returned from our 1st trip in our new (to us) 2008 Sprinter 26BHS. A great trip all in all, with just enough adventure and many great interactions with our fellow campers.

A couple of questions I'm hoping some more experienced folks here can help me with:
1) The unit has no rear stabilizers (DOES have front stabilizers), and it really seems to need them (shakes like a carnival ride when someone is in the shower -whee ! ). As far as I can tell, it never had rear stabilizers. It does not have a lot of exposed frame structure,
only obvious points are where the bumper connector is attached (see picture). Is there any problem with jacking at these points? The unit is 4 season, so the bottom is completely sealed. I'm thinking it's ok as long as the jacks don't induce any upwards load on the frame - am I thinking about this correctly? I don't even think I'd weld them on, but just place them there when we park.
2) Are slideout stabilizers a good idea? It seems like the slideout is something that would benefit from some amount of "help" with load bearing.

Picture:

Thanks!
--Brendan

Festus2 · 03-15-2015, 03:24 PM

Brendan -
Slide out supports or stabilizers are not necessary. RVs are designed and constructed so that, when extended, they are properly supported and will bear the weight of people who are "in the slide". Unless everyone is jumping around in the slide area, you shouldn't feel any movement.
Adding supports or stabilizers will actually prevent any "flex" from happening and end up producing unnecessary stress on the slide out mechanism and supports.

Not a good idea.

Seems strange that your unit does not have rear stabilizers ?????

GaryWT · 03-15-2015, 03:39 PM

Stabilizers use to be an option but by 2008 I would have thought they would have them. The area just in front of the area shown would be good to attach to. If you are going to place stabilizers there each trip then the low or high area should work out ok.

Slide stabilizers are generally not a good idea, if and part of the trailer moves while the stabilizer is under the slide, the slide could be damaged and you could have trouble closing it.

firsttt · 03-21-2015, 06:58 PM

Sorry, I'm late on the reply, had to return to the "real world" for a couple of weeks to pay for it all

Thanks for clearing up the confusion on the slideout, sounds like it could be a real mess of I went with those, thanks!

For the rear jacks - is it safe to use them without attaching them to the trailer (bolt on or welding), by simply placing them and then jacking to where they place some force on the trailer? Since they are not really bearing weight (assuming I don't do anything stupid, of course

) - should be ok?

**JRTJH** · 03-21-2015, 07:18 PM

What kind of "jacks" are you talking about? Scissors jacks, tripod jack stands, screwpost jacks??? Remember that if you're using a jack that isn't attached to the trailer frame and the trailer or the jack "wobbles" and gets twisted, it could slip out from under the frame and as the trailer settles, the jack could puncture the coroplast. If there is a holding tank or a fresh water tank immediately under the coroplast, you could damage your tank.

That said, if you're talking about scissors jacks, the ones with the big screw rod to pull them up and down, you can attach them to the frame of your trailer, actually even better, to the two bumper standoffs with bolts and self locking nuts. That way they are permanently attached, no need to worry about them slipping or twisting and no requirement to find a place to store them during travel.

Total project time, from gathering tools to cleaning up the mess and opening the adult beverage shouldn't be more than an hour or so.

Good Luck.

**chuckster57** · 03-21-2015, 07:25 PM

If you look close at the stand off in the picture, it sure looks like two old welds. I've seen many rear stab jacks ripped off by curbs etc.

firsttt · 03-21-2015, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you look close at the stand off in the picture, it sure looks like two old welds. I've seen many rear stab jacks ripped off by curbs etc.

Wow, I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out. Based on some other things I've noticed, I think the PO modified the trailer to hold a dirt bike or two, so maybe they removed the jacks to support the mods. Based on what you've pointed out, would the standoffs be a bad place for the scissor jacks? Would the frame (between the coroplast and the standoff), be a better place assuming I can get it to clear?

firsttt · 03-21-2015, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

What kind of "jacks" are you talking about? Scissors jacks, tripod jack stands, screwpost jacks??? Remember that if you're using a jack that isn't attached to the trailer frame and the trailer or the jack "wobbles" and gets twisted, it could slip out from under the frame and as the trailer settles, the jack could puncture the coroplast. If there is a holding tank or a fresh water tank immediately under the coroplast, you could damage your tank.

That said, if you're talking about scissors jacks, the ones with the big screw rod to pull them up and down, you can attach them to the frame of your trailer, actually even better, to the two bumper standoffs with bolts and self locking nuts. That way they are permanently attached, no need to worry about them slipping or twisting and no requirement to find a place to store them during travel.

Total project time, from gathering tools to cleaning up the mess and opening the adult beverage shouldn't be more than an hour or so.

Good Luck.

I purchased a pair of 7500 lb EAZ Lift scissor jacks.

That's a REALLY good point about potential instability causing some horrible
puncture, thanks!

**chuckster57** · 03-21-2015, 07:56 PM

I've seen many stab jacks attached to the frame right on top of the coroplast with self tapping screws.

firsttt · 03-21-2015, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I've seen many stab jacks attached to the frame right on top of the coroplast with self tapping screws.

Also good to know, thanks! Sounds like I have plenty of options

hankaye · 03-22-2015, 06:54 AM

firsttt, Howdy;

If you look under the TT you will see where there are 2 Larger
frame members (look like I beams, because that's what they are),
that run the length of the TT. Those are where the stabilizers
are attached by the factory. They are the strongest parts of the
frame itself. That's where I'd put them, ... just a suggestion.

hankaye

firsttt · 03-28-2015, 02:43 PM

Just wanted to close this out in the hopes that another n00b might someday benefit from this thread...
I ended up going with Camco EAZ Lift Scissor jacks, which seem sturdy, smooth and well made. I actually took a different turn from my usual MO (just ask my wife) and read the directions that were included - this lead me to mount the jacks in front of the aforementioned standoffs - putting them on the standoffs would have created a situation where the jacks could have been damaged/sheared off in a driveway or something,because they would have been the (new) lowest point.

Right was easy, left took some finagling as the sewage drain was very close, but it fit well. The screws on the left do look a little "jacked up" (and they are), but it is solid.

The install took about an hour. I consider myself moderately mechanical. The hardest part was rolling my aching 43 year old back around in the gravel.

**chuckster57** · 03-28-2015, 03:18 PM

You done good!

hankaye · 03-28-2015, 05:40 PM

firsttt, Howdy;

Quote:

Originally Posted by firsttt

Just wanted to close this out in the hopes that another n00b might someday benefit from this thread... The hardest part was rolling my aching 43 year old back around in the gravel.

Congratulations!

Try some cardboard between you and the gravel next time ... helps these
soon to be 66 year old bones... double layers are very nice ...

hankaye

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