water heater anode removal

[jcarpendrum]

I just purchased a new keystone cougar-lite 5th wheel.I am not going to be using it for the winter months and need to remove anode to drain.It appears
to be welded on.Is there a secret to unthreading for the 1st time,liquid wrench;etc

[Outbackmel]

Those rods are tough and need to be considering their job. Key is to get the right size socket and heavy ratchet or non ratchet breaker bar. Get that socket on the head and tug that thing loose. BEFORE you do, water inside rv off, faucets open to ensure no back pressure. Outside on the heater itself pull that pressure release lever. You will need a good socket every time.
The thread system for the plug is heavy duty. No problem once you get the hang of it.

[SLIMSHADIE]

I keep that socket in my toolbox, for the road now, just in case. Dont remember the size but its a big one. I also wrote the size with a marker inside the water heater panel. Once its broke loose and new teflon tape is replaced, its not that bad anymore.

[Little Guy]

I think that socket is a 1 1/16th inch

[Bushman512000]

Get some teflon paste or plumer teflon paste.Better than the tape I have used it for years.I keep it inside the w.heater it comes like tooth paste and stays on the rod better than tape and no seased or rusty rods..Bushman

[Bushman512000]

Originally Posted by Little Guy

I think that socket is a 1 1/16th inch

Thats what We call the Golden Kool Aid of beers state lol smooth like Our Crown Royal shine...Bushman said that and You live in a Great State also

[pedalsteelpicker]

I just pulled mine yesterday,it took 1 1/16" socket

[cathcartww]

If you run the water heater a bit BEFORE you drain it, it usually makes the plug a little easier to loosen. DO NOT let it get too hot, and watch out for hot water draining out when the plug is removed. Safest way is to turn the heater on for a bit (either electric or propane) and let it heat up, shut it off, then use a good socket (as mentioned above) to break it loose - you don't have to let it drain all the way out until it cools back down. You can turn the by-pass valve and do your other winterization chores until it cools down.

[twstdpear]

Originally Posted by Outbackmel

... BEFORE you do, water inside rv off, faucets open to ensure no back pressure. Outside on the heater itself pull that pressure release lever. ...

Ditto. It's an easy step to forget, but very important.

I knew about it, but managed to accidentally skip that step the first time I winterized. The anode rod shot about 20' towards the (glass) porch door, fortunately stopping short of doing any damage to anything (or anyone).

Suburban water heaters seem to use 1-1/16". I think Atwoods may use a different size.

[jcarpendrum]

Originally Posted by Outbackmel

Those rods are tough and need to be considering their job. Key is to get the right size socket and heavy ratchet or non ratchet breaker bar. Get that socket on the head and tug that thing loose. BEFORE you do, water inside rv off, faucets open to ensure no back pressure. Outside on the heater itself pull that pressure release lever. You will need a good socket every time.
The thread system for the plug is heavy duty. No problem once you get the hang of it.

thanks,I bought an oversize 4 position tire iron and it came off with no effort.
8 months of use really ate it up.Enjoy the road.