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09-30-2012, 12:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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Scissor jack socket size?
I want to pick up an extra socket for putting the stab. jacks down with an old cordless drill. Does anyone know what size of socket a 2013 Passport 3220BH would use?
TIA!
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2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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09-30-2012, 12:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northville NY in the Adirondacks
Posts: 2,128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio1der
I want to pick up an extra socket for putting the stab. jacks down with an old cordless drill. Does anyone know what size of socket a 2013 Passport 3220BH would use?
TIA!
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Mine is 3/4". Those jacks are pretty universal so I'd suspect that yours are too.
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'11 Cougar 326MKS loaded with mods
'12 Ford F250 SuperCab 6.7 PowerStroke Diesel
Amateur Radio: KD2IAT (146.520) GMRS: WQPG808 (462.675 TPL 141.3)
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09-30-2012, 03:10 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 156
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You can also get a socket for your drill from any camping supply store. They cost about $5.00.
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10-05-2012, 05:24 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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Thanks very much, guys 3/4" was right on.
We picked it up this morning and it was quite fast to unhook & temporarily jack before we head out to winter storage on Sunday.
The help was much appreciated!
__________________
2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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10-08-2012, 06:11 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio USA
Posts: 156
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Hopfully it was one of the ones with a flat edge ground on opposite sides and not the round shank type. The round ones seem to bind up and slip after awhile. Nothing a bench grinder wont take care of.
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10-08-2012, 09:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 109
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Oh gee, and don't forget that somewhere in your manual for either the jacks or the trailer it says that if you use one of those it will void your jack warranty. It's not a problem, I was being sarchastic. I have been using mine for a year now and no issues with it being bad for the jacks. I would keep the threads a little lubricated though so they don't get bound up. I guess that's the only one small problem with using the drill. It doesn't know when to stop whereas using the crank tool they provide allows you to feel that binding and you can stop. What you are supposed to do if it binds is beyond me other than going back and forth to clear any debri I guess.
I'm not rich by any means, but I would prefer to have to buy a new set of jacks if necessary rather than use that crank tool they provide every time I camp. What a PAIN!!
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Paul
2011 Toyota Tundra, 5.7L, Double Cab, 4x4, Tow Package
2013 Keystone Premier Bullet 33BLPR
BlueOx Sway Pro WD Hitch
Husky Escort Time Ramp Brake Controller (need an upgrade)
Air Lift [Load Lifter 5000] Air Bags
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10-08-2012, 10:38 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio USA
Posts: 156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happytrails
Oh gee, and don't forget that somewhere in your manual for either the jacks or the trailer it says that if you use one of those it will void your jack warranty. It's not a problem, I was being sarchastic. I have been using mine for a year now and no issues with it being bad for the jacks. I would keep the threads a little lubricated though so they don't get bound up. I guess that's the only one small problem with using the drill. It doesn't know when to stop whereas using the crank tool they provide allows you to feel that binding and you can stop. What you are supposed to do if it binds is beyond me other than going back and forth to clear any debri I guess.
I'm not rich by any means, but I would prefer to have to buy a new set of jacks if necessary rather than use that crank tool they provide every time I camp. What a PAIN!!
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I've found that once I switched to the chuck type I described above, I've had little problem. I do occassional pit a little spray grease on them (about every other trip) and have had no binding issues, even running the drill at a pretty good speed (about half trigger pull).
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10-17-2012, 02:50 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Central Cali
Posts: 4
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I've only used mine a short time, but the cheapo Harbor Freight drill set on a low torque setting seems to ensure the drill won't force the jack if it binds. I also stop before it's fully up or fully down, and use the hand crank to dial it in.
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