To Vent or Not to Vent?

[TeamCyBo]

I saw a quick tip yesterday about making a screen cover for the dump tube from the Black/Gray tanks. This is supposed to let them air out during storage. Is this a good thing or not? Since I saw this, I have read that it is basically split in opinions. Is this a good thing to do, and if so is there a cap you can buy or just get a cap and drill it out? Also, if I do not vent, is there a procedure about leaving some sort of fluid in the tanks to keep it ready for the next camping trip. I have read that Calgon water softner is good for this. We don't have any problems other than the usual mis-reads on the level gauge, but I read that this is a common problem anyway. I'm just looking for preventative measures.

What are your thoughts and suggestions?

Thanks,
Bo

[hankpage]

Bo, I have often considered venting the tanks, but was concerned about any waste in the tank hardening and possibly jamming a valve. When I winterize I leave the dump valves open until all water is out of the fresh water system, close the dump valves and allow anti-freeze to run into all traps and leave it in the holding tanks to keep the valve seals from freezing or drying out.

If I were going to vent them I would use a dump cap (3") with a male hose fitting and just leave the hose fitting cap off. (I do this now so pressure does not build between closed valves and the dump fitting cap) .... JM2¢, Hank

[TeamCyBo]

Hi Hank. Thanks for the response. I too have he concern of waste hardening so I am sorta leaning against it. The last hing I want is to have to repair the valves that are not broken now. What's your take on Calgon?

Bo

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by TeamCyBo

Hi Hank. Thanks for the response. I too have he concern of waste hardening so I am sorta leaning against it. The last hing I want is to have to repair the valves that are not broken now. What's your take on Calgon?

Bo

Hank uses Downey.

I'm the son of a plumber and learned about some of these things at a very young age. The waste tanks themselves are already vented with 1.5" pipe up to the roof of the trailer. This allows the tanks to fill without blowing their contents back up the drain lines into your sink or whatever. It's really not enough venting to dry out the tanks.

Placing a vent downstream from the drain gates will not hurt anything as long as the vent stack is tall enough to prevent any possibility of stuff coming out through it. But I think the intended purpose of "airing out" the waste tanks is unnecessary and possibly harmful. I'd rather have any residual in the tanks stay moist so that it can be flushed out. If it dries, it may never be washed away.

Better to adopt good tank maintenance practices that keep them clean. A clean tank won't have much odor anyway.

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by TeamCyBo

Hi Hank. Thanks for the response. I too have he concern of waste hardening so I am sorta leaning against it. The last hing I want is to have to repair the valves that are not broken now. What's your take on Calgon?

Bo

I take one long trip (2500 mi round trip) each year. While traveling I carry enough fresh water for pit stops. I also put Calgon and Dawn in the holding tanks to help keep them clean. It seems to help and I get reasonably good level readings. The sloshing around on our well maintained East-coast highways seems to clean the tanks well and both products have little effect on dump stations, RV systems and the environment. Leaving Calgon and water in tank for storage will cause a freeze problem and do more harm than good. Travel safely, Hank

Steve, I'm allergic to fabric softeners and they can't get rid of my wrinkles so I don't use them.

[hankaye]

Hank, Howdy;

I think Steve had us mixed-up. Easy to do, I do use Downey.

Helps eliminate that "Fresh Dumped" aroma and helps keep the inside of the tank and seals slick ...

hankaye

PS. For long term storage I'd probably leave 10 gal of water mixed with the Downey in the tank to "keep things fresh."

[geo]

TeamCyBo -

If you look at my post from about a year ago . . .

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...light=chemical

Basically, Calgon is expensive Washing Soda (not Baking Soda!) which is Sodium Carbonate. Water softner. That's why the water is "slick".

Ron

[TeamCyBo]

Originally Posted by geo

TeamCyBo -

If you look at my post from about a year ago . . .

http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...light=chemical

Basically, Calgon is expensive Washing Soda (not Baking Soda!) which is Sodium Carbonate. Water softner. That's why the water is "slick".

Ron

Thanks Ron for the info Awesome post. I'll start looking around here for some "Washing Soda". Our water here is not hard so I'm thinking maybe 1/2 a cup will probably do the job.

Thanks again for all of the info.

Bo

[geo]

Bo -

A&H Washing Soda is packaged in a blue box. Most time WalMart does carry it. If not, check out Gulf Coast Chemicals out of Lake Charles, LA or on Amazon. They sell food grade Sodium Carbonate. If you are in West Texas or Oklahoma, put a couple of tablespoons of it in your freshwater tank for soft water (not more than that). But only Food Grade!

Oh, look at the "fabric softeners" chemical content and also all OxyClean products, usually Sodium Carbonate is number one ingredient.

I can also tell you from "first hand" examination, in at least the Alpine 3460RL, there is a vent from the top of the black water tank above the dump valve that extends up to the roof. The pressure in the black water tank should never exceed atmospheric pressure. Also, Camco manufactures a "weather vane" type vent cover that draws odors out of the black tank while traveling or as the wind blows. Keep your black tank "healthy" and you probably won't need this type vent cover.

As far as your signature, "Happy Trails" . . . When I was in high school <long story omitted> I rode "student stand-by" in first class American Airlines with Roy Rogers, Dale Evans, and Pat Brady from Dallas Love Field to LAX (before DFW Airport). Very nice people!

Ron

[TeamCyBo]

Awwww Ron, ya just had to go and make me jealous, lol. What a great opportunity. He is one of the two people I wanted to meet before I die. My Saturday morning HERO. The other was Red Skelton. Alas, I didn't get to. God rest there souls.

I will look for the blue box the next time I'm at Wally World. My OB 210RS has the vent all the to the roof. As I understand that most if not all do now. I will also look into the vent vane. I've decided to keep ours capped on the bottom end. The thought of any waste that is in there solidifying and causing trouble does not sit well. That's why I like this forum, a lot of good info and experiences to draw from.

Thanks again for the memories and the info.

Bo

[LarryL]

I am going to try the idea of leaving the hose
cap off after I dump,close the valves and next
stop will not have pressure behind cap because
of altitude changes always get ideas from this
forum.

[TeamCyBo]

Hey Larry, am I missing something? If you don't crack the valves then leaving the cap off makes no difference. Maybe I just read that wrong, lol. Need more coffee

Bo

[f6bits]

I believe that the tanks are vented, so they don’t suffer pressure changes from altitude. However, the dump tube is sealed with the cap at one end, and the valves at the other end. You wouldn’t want to leave those valves open because you’ll get a small surprise when you open the cap when it comes time to hook up the sewer line.

Originally Posted by TeamCyBo

Hey Larry, am I missing something? If you don't crack the valves then leaving the cap off makes no difference. Maybe I just read that wrong, lol. Need more coffee

Bo

[TeamCyBo]

I understand that. My thought was that Larry said that he was going to leave the cap off which would do nothing as far as venting if the valves are closed. I learned from experience that you CLOSE the valves, lol or you WILL get a surprise when you hook up the hose next time around.

Bo

[JoeofNSB]

I always use a pail and hold it by the cap when I take it off in case there is any "stuff" that leaked by or pressure that built up from temperature or altitude changes. Then I attach the hose and drain. Put the pail under so when your done nothing drips on the ground and then rinse the pail before moving on. Pail works good for holding flush hose, gloves, tyvek suit and even a junky pair of shoes - all for the necessary but never fun job!!!

[f6bits]

Bo, I need to rub my eyes, or something. Your “no cap, no crack, no difference” flip-flopped me into triple negative territory.

Regardless, I think it’s very unwise to travel with the cap off. You’re bound to win the ire of some highway patrol officer who sees that. If you’re concerned about pressure in the dump tube, open the cap very slowly at your next hookup to release pressure. Whatever drips are still in there will be there no matter what the pressure, and your tanks will still be fine because of their own venting.

[LarryL]

I close all my valves after dumping but sometimes
when moving to new campground if it's at a different
altitude the cap is hard to take off and when it comes
off you get a spray of not so good fluid,I think it is
ether kitchen or bath water but still do not want it
in my face
I always check the valves to make sure they are closed
before taking the cap off,never had that surprise yet
and if it did happen you would need more then a bucket.

[TeamCyBo]

Originally Posted by sdayman

Bo, I need to rub my eyes, or something. Your “no cap, no crack, no difference” flip-flopped me into triple negative territory.

Regardless, I think it’s very unwise to travel with the cap off. You’re bound to win the ire of some highway patrol officer who sees that. If you’re concerned about pressure in the dump tube, open the cap very slowly at your next hookup to release pressure. Whatever drips are still in there will be there no matter what the pressure, and your tanks will still be fine because of their own venting.

Sdayman, that is tooooooo funny. Recap (no pun intended, lol): I am not concerned about pressure in the tanks or dump tube, I think that is Larry (see above). My concern was simply allowing the system to air out when in storage. I have since come to the conclusion that this practice may not be such a wise thing to do, so I will continue to keep the cap on. I am sorry for the confusion And a ticket from a cop would surely put a damper on a camping trip.

Larry, while others here have said that the tank is vented through the top and is in fact so. There should not be any difference in pressure no matter where you go. I beleive that what you are experiencing is a pressure fluctuation in the dump tube. With the tube cap on and the valve closed no venting can be achived in the tube itself. My thoughts are that you get a spare cap and drill a few holes, maybe towards the top end of the facing to let the tube pressure adjust. Just make sure that the valves are closed so no "stuff" can get to the cap. I would also recommend using the bucket idea just in case. This procedure would allow pressure equalization on both sides of the valve. I hope this helps and sorry for the confusion.

Bo

[LarryL]

I will drill 1/8" hole in the hose cap that is on the main cap
and put it on with the hose cap at the top.
I always hold my sewer hose under the cap when I take it
off have been doing that for twenty years,just never
though of the hose cap and a little 1/8'' hole in it
I don 't think Charlie Horse Power would see it.

[hankaye]

Howdy All;

You could also get ahold of one of the end caps that has the hose connection for back-flushing (item # T1020-1 in the link), and then just open the hose connection to equlize any press. diff. or whatever.....

http://www.valterra.com/RV/rv-main.htm

hankaye