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Old 03-05-2020, 08:16 PM   #1
Brantlyj
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USB outlets

I’d like to change the outlets in the bedroom to include USB ports.

Are the outlets standard units I can get at Menards or are the some kind of special RV outlets? If so does anyone make any kind of dual outlet/usb?
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:27 PM   #2
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Typically the RV outlets are in a "shallow" box because the walls are thin. The USB/wall outlets I've seen will not fit into a shallow box.
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Old 03-05-2020, 09:06 PM   #3
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The simple solution is this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALHQQU4

Easy to take with you when an upgraded trailer is in your future.
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Old 03-05-2020, 09:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
The simple solution is this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALHQQU4

Easy to take with you when an upgraded trailer is in your future.

Thanks. Got that in my wishlist if I can’t find anything more streamlined.
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:07 AM   #5
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I use one of these ...https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger...sb%2Caps%2C180

It's 60 watts so it charges our 2 phones and iPad air as well as the grandchildren tablets, phones, etc.and allows us to put all that "stuff" out of the way while charging.
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:09 AM   #6
JRTJH
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Brant,

The front wall panels and the rear wall panels are typically much thicker than the sidewalls (4-6 inches vs 2 inches). If you remove one of the current outlets, you can measure the depth of the space and determine if a deeper outlet box can be installed. Typically, in RV's, they install the "same thing everywhere" rather than "pick and choose the max available". So, even though there's a shallow wall outlet, you might find that there's space for a deeper one on the front/rear wall installations.

Usually, the interior walls are not "structural supports" and are almost always 1" or 2" thick, so you won't find space there unless you can "intrude on a cupboard or cabinet dead space"....
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:40 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Brant,

The front wall panels and the rear wall panels are typically much thicker than the sidewalls (4-6 inches vs 2 inches). If you remove one of the current outlets, you can measure the depth of the space and determine if a deeper outlet box can be installed. Typically, in RV's, they install the "same thing everywhere" rather than "pick and choose the max available". So, even though there's a shallow wall outlet, you might find that there's space for a deeper one on the front/rear wall installations.

Usually, the interior walls are not "structural supports" and are almost always 1" or 2" thick, so you won't find space there unless you can "intrude on a cupboard or cabinet dead space"....
Good to know. I’ll check it out. Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2020, 10:36 AM   #8
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I installed USB outlets from Blue Sea (marine grade) on both sides of the bed. I tapped into 12v power from the overhead night light over the bed, which is not controlled by a wall switch. I was able to run the new wiring through the empty space in the cabinets. I added a switch to the USB outlets because they have a green led when they are powered. I can turn them off with the switch so that led doesn’t drain the batteries unnecessarily.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst..._dp&th=1&psc=1

This USB port will not fit in an RV wall, it is too long.
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Old 03-06-2020, 06:36 PM   #9
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RV and mobile home receptacles do not need a box. All residential and commercial receptacles require a box. You will want what is called an "old work" box.
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Old 03-09-2020, 08:59 PM   #10
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The number of 120 outlets in our camper was pretty sparse, so I added a couple more and those had dual USB ports as well.





The USB ports only work when there is shore power or the generator is running so I am thinking of adding a couple to the 12 volt system too.
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Old 02-13-2021, 01:00 PM   #11
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Bumping this old thread, hope that's ok...

All of the new travel trailers come with lots of USB ports -- does anyone know the voltage of these charging ports? Are they powered from the 12v battery system?

We're looking at a 250BHS and there are USB charging ports in each bunk. Will they have enough juice to charge a tablet, or are they the older, lower power ports with enough for a phone? If it's the latter, can they be upgraded?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-13-2021, 01:17 PM   #12
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Welcome to the forum : wlcm:

USB ports that are not part of an outlet are 12V and the output should be 5.4V if I remember right. It should be enough to charge a tablet.
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Old 02-13-2021, 01:45 PM   #13
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Terrific, thanks for the quick answer. And not the one I was expecting!
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:36 PM   #14
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We charge iPhones and iPads from the USB ports with no issues. The output is 5v. The phones charge in the typical time, but these are not the 12 watt output that the iPad likes so those will take longer to charge. Our MiFi has a higher power demand like the iPad so I get messages from the MiFi that it is not an optimum power supply and charging time will be extended.
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Old 02-13-2021, 02:55 PM   #15
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Is it possible to retrofit the 5A chargers with something more powerful?
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Old 02-13-2021, 03:15 PM   #16
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As you can see in the pic I posted (from one I removed from my camper) the input is 12 to 28 volts DC. The output is 5 volts DC at 2.4 watts of power which is what most small electronic devices require (basically what a laptop computer USB port puts out). An iPhone charger outputs 5 volts DC at 5 watts of power. An iPad charger outputs 5 volts DC at 12 watts of power.

The current ports will safely charge everything you plug into them, but may take a little longer than you are used to. Yes, you can buy replacement USB outlets at higher output wattages, but unless you label them for specific devices only, you run the risk of overheating the device battery, which can shorten the life of the device or cause a fire. If you went no higher than a 5 volt DC with 5 watt output, you should be fine, but we have never had any issues using the provided ports.
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Old 02-13-2021, 03:16 PM   #17
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If you need USB, get something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...G-37/312562259
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Old 02-13-2021, 03:31 PM   #18
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If you need USB, get something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...G-37/312562259
George, those require 110/120 v AC power to the outlet otherwise it can’t convert to the 5v DC power to run the USB ports. The factory USB ports in the camper are powered through the 12 v DC system and don’t rely on having shore power
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Old 02-13-2021, 03:39 PM   #19
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Bumping this old thread, hope that's ok...

All of the new travel trailers come with lots of USB ports -- does anyone know the voltage of these charging ports? Are they powered from the 12v battery system?

We're looking at a 250BHS and there are USB charging ports in each bunk. Will they have enough juice to charge a tablet, or are they the older, lower power ports with enough for a phone? If it's the latter, can they be upgraded?

Thanks in advance.


Rob has given you some good advice on the various USB outlets and power outputs in respect to what you are trying to use in them. IMO, not based on anything I've seen or read, is that the USB ports in the RV will be the ones that power anything, not the higher powered ports for very specific equipment. That would be a real problem for the manufacturer because no one will actually pay attention if they are about to burn up their smartphone.

My other question would be this; new RVs come with several USB ports and tons of AC outlets. Do they not make any 120vac adapters for your USB charging for whatever it is you need to charge? My trailer is a 20, has several USB ports but none where I want them. I have AC outlets everywhere; I use adapters anywhere and everywhere I want and happy as a fat tick.
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Old 02-13-2021, 04:04 PM   #20
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George, those require 110/120 v AC power to the outlet otherwise it can’t convert to the 5v DC power to run the USB ports. The factory USB ports in the camper are powered through the 12 v DC system and don’t rely on having shore power

I surely understand. I have two of the multi-outlet things in my camper; one for the phones and one for the laptop which is usually on the dining table. The OP was looking at swapping out AC switch plates wasn't he? Same thing as using the product I suggested.
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