Lights 'n' Ladders

f6bits · 03-17-2013, 03:12 PM

It was a busy week. I did that sewer hose in a fence post mod, put a small wood shelf under the bathroom sink (similar to the wire shelf someone posted recently), and finally an upper bunk ladder and patio lighting.

For the ladder, I used 1"x3" white oak and 1-9/16" foot-long dowels. Used a spade bit to drill into the oak every twelve inches for the rungs and let the spade point poke out. I drilled back through the spade point hole and screwed 2½" lag bolts with washers back into the rungs. I miter-cut the ladder ends so they'd be parallel with the floor. For the top, I used L brackets cut down to fit the lip of the bunk. For the bottom, I put on little stick-on rubber feet.

For the patio lights, I opted to stick them to the underside of the gutter. This makes wiring substantially easier, and lets me use the lights with the awning retracted. Fortunately, the lead end of the light strip is exactly where my control panel is, so I was able to drill straight through the wall and filled with silicone. The hardest part was finding suitable ground for the lights. I left the standard 12V connector on the lights because I'm lazy, and if the light strip fails, I can easily replace it with another without having to do any re-wiring. I shrink tubed the plugs to each other. Soon enough I'll find out how well it lights up the patio area.

Next on my list is blackout curtains for the bunk area. I got a black-backed panel at Bed Bath & Beyond for $30 (all their other panels were white-backed which might be noticeable through the windows. It's tall enough that I can cut it in half and tailor the halves to fit each bunk.

davidcyndi · 03-17-2013, 03:28 PM

Nice handy work! My wife is nagging me about awning lights. We have been looking at the ones that connect to the awning tube once it is fully extended. They kinda slide down the rail using the supplied plastic tube. I don't think I would have the nerve to drill into the trailer since we have only had it 2 weeks. Thanks for sharing.

f6bits · 03-17-2013, 03:43 PM

I had the awning lights that slid into the tube slot. They look nice, but it was several extra steps for setup and teardown. And if it was windy, it adds a time-consuming step to roll up the awning. Plus the rope light I was using was 110V which doesn't work for boon docking.

Someone here used the same light strip I did and stuck it to the awning roller. It's thin enough that it can be rolled up in the awning. It also uses a standard 12V connector that's used on many 12V power adaptors.
http://myworld.ebay.com/temtop06 (waterproof 5050 LED)
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-.../dp/B00452YFZU

All this is probably cheaper and more convenient than the rope light setup.

SlowPoke · 03-17-2013, 03:48 PM

Nice work... I'm looking into getting those 19.95 Disco LED strip lighting with 12v controller and remote from Amazon to mount on the tube as well... Still apprehensive about the 19.95 part though... hadn't made the decision yet.

mikell · 03-18-2013, 01:10 PM

I ordered 10 meters of the self stick led lights the other day. will use them for under cabinet ad maybe the awning with a 12 volt extension cord made up

raytronx · 03-18-2013, 01:48 PM

I like the awning light install, looks very slick.

Ray

**JRTJH** · 03-18-2013, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raytronx

I like the awning light install, looks very slick.

Ray

I do too, Ray. Last fall, I ordered all the components to install an LED strip along the awning tube in place of the string up lights. It turned to "winter" before I got them installed. Now, after looking at some of the mods here, I think it might be more functional to install them on the trailer end of the awning. It certainly would be easier to wire. My only hesitation is whether bugs will be attracted to the strip enough to make it a nusiance that close to the door. I suppose I could always install it, and if it's a problem, just install another one on the roller end. It wouldn't be that much difference to run the wire after the first one is installed.

I'm really looking forward to being able to get started on some of these mods, but so far, it's impossible to be outside without thermals, ski bibs, coat and hat with ear muffs down

michol02 · 03-18-2013, 08:43 PM

I had LED strip on the awning tube(5m 3528 RGB), but I had the non waterproof strip, which resulted in most of the LEDs going out. I replaced it with the 5m 5050 RGB waterproof model from E-bay for $18. Just in case, I covered it with 2" wide clear tape. I like it much better than the 3528. It's brighter and the colors are more vivid. I have it rigged so when I roll up the awning, it will unplug itself(wire is mounted inside the awning arm and through the outer wall to control box then to 12v plug)

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**JRTJH** · 03-18-2013, 10:00 PM

michol02,

I like your idea too. I really am not sure which way would be best to install the LED strip, on the trailer or on the roller tube. Both seem to have advantages and both also seem to have issues that make the other one seem better LOL

As for LED's a little "tech data" for you... 5050 LED's are 5.0 mm wide, 5.0 mm long and have 3 LED components inside the package. Each of the components is a 3528 LED, so the 5050 is 3 times brighter than the 3528.
Now, guess what a 3528 is: Yup, it's 3.5mm wide and 2.8mm thick and has one LED component inside the package....

Not that this trivia makes a lot of difference in what we stick on the sides of our RV, but hopefully it will help build a better understanding for most of us who look at the numbers and wonder what the heck it all means.....

Now, just about the time we figure out the "numbering system" I'm betting that they create a better system and we're all "lost again" LOL

Anyway, hope the trivia helps you understand why the 5050's are brighter than the 3528's.....

440justin · 03-19-2013, 08:58 AM

Nice job on the lights. My wife is already on my case to do this mod to our new Passport and we don't even have it home from the dealer yet (they are storing it until spring)! We have some friends who just bought a Winnebago UltraLite that has the LED lighting like that and once my wife saw that I was tasked with making that happen to ours.

Our entry door and control panel is at the end of the awining so I could wire into it into the control panel, but the idea of drilling into a brand new trailer is not going over well with me. I have been thining aout a way to tie it into the existing patio light so I don't have to drill into the trailer wall, yet the lights would still be controlled with the switch inside the trailer.

davidcyndi · 03-19-2013, 10:05 AM

what do you guys think about this led kit?
http://www.sunslighting.com/ProductD...ode=2038RGBkit

**JRTJH** · 03-19-2013, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidcyndi

what do you guys think about this led kit?
http://www.sunslighting.com/ProductD...ode=2038RGBkit

You can get pretty much the same thing from Ebay for abour $20. I'm not sure why you would need the power supply. The lights are 12 volts (make sure you ddon't buy 24 volt lights) and they will tie into your existing 12VDC wiring. If you wire them with the power supply, you may have issues trying to use them when dry camping. I'd look for a kit that is 12 VDC and that doesn't need a power supply. The ones that some people have discussed that are multicolor have a controller, but they also come in 12VDC lights so even then, no power supply would be needed.

davidcyndi · 03-19-2013, 01:40 PM

Yeah I don't want to hardwire them, I want to be able to plug them in to the outlet.

f6bits · 03-19-2013, 04:25 PM

You can buy an overpriced kit from Dometic (but ebay makes more sense). Here's the video that got me started on my quest for outdoor LED lighting:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgEfMplS5O0

michol02 · 03-19-2013, 06:19 PM

I forgot to mention that it didn't come with a power supply. I bought an adjustable DC power supply for $14 at Wally World. Previous to current set-up, I had an AC to DC adapter(bought at same store) and I just draped it over the awning arm(wasn't weather proof) and used an extension cord plugged into the outside rv plug. I'm always experimenting with different mods. Some work, some don't, and some just need a little "tweaking".
Thanks for the info JRTJH, I didn't know that.

slewis95407 · 03-21-2013, 09:40 AM

I have installed a LED light strip to the RV wall under the awning wired to the porch light. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/pic...pictureid=1765 These are the SMD 3528 and put out more light than my previous rope light. I bought my LED's from hitlight.com. They come a 16' real, in warm white, cool white, red, blue, green and RGB (multi colored). I have also installed critter lights, Blue LED's on the coroplast on the underbelly, connected to a power supply and controlled by a photcell. Most critters don't like the blue LED's.

440justin · 03-22-2013, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slewis95407

I have installed a LED light strip to the RV wall under the awning wired to the porch light. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/pic...pictureid=1765 These are the SMD 3528 and put out more light than my previous rope light. I bought my LED's from hitlight.com. They come a 16' real, in warm white, cool white, red, blue, green and RGB (multi colored). I have also installed critter lights, Blue LED's on the coroplast on the underbelly, connected to a power supply and controlled by a photcell. Most critters don't like the blue LED's.

Scott,

That looks good! Do you have a close up picture of the porch light showing how you wired up inside of it? Looks like your light still works as well. This is what I am going to do, with the only change of mounting the LED's closer to the awning.

**JRTJH** · 03-22-2013, 11:28 AM

440justin,

When you're mounting your LED's up close to the awning rail, don't get them too close or the awning roller will hit them when it's retracted. Going down the highway, the awning vibration may be enough to destroy the LED's, well to destroy the electrical connections between them..... I'd recommend you get on a ladder, look at how much space is between the awning roller and the trailer sidewall and try to mount the LED's in the space so that they won't get banged around or rubbed by the awning during travel. Remember, if you get them too high, you can only use them when the awning is out since they would be covered by the awning when it is stowed. That may not matter to you, but sometimes, we like to have a little extra light and don't want to (or can't) extend the awning.

As for electrical connections, if you route the LED wiring around the porch light to the bottom, you can drill a small hole and push the two wires into the light fixture, then it's just a matter of connecting them to the wires inside. A small dab of silicone or DICOR to the holes and you're set to turn them on. I'm considering adding a switch under the porch light so we can use just the porch light or turn on both the LED's and the porch light.

440justin · 03-22-2013, 02:38 PM

JRTJH,

Thanks for the thoughts/ideas. Hopfully it warms up a bit soon so I can get and and look into it. I am ready to go camping!

f6bits · 03-22-2013, 04:17 PM

I didn't wire it to the porch light. I drilled right through the wall and into the control panel:

(The is the pre-shrinktubing picture)

Today, I finished up the wiring, using my new best friends:
http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...07/?quantity=1
I installed a rocker switch through a ½" hole and used the above linked part to tap off existing switches for 12V and ground.

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