2008 344 J 5th wheel layout location?

[scopx]

Have searched to find layout/plan of above in attempt to determince how to pull water heater out. But either did not query properly, or ask right questions.
Can anyone point to right location?

I have managed to pull cover off without destroying same, but unit appears to be somewhat "L" shaped and considerable larger than opening. This determined after pull underlayment to find where water was coming from.
Thanks
Tom

[Festus2]

If you go online to the manufacturer of your HW heater, they probably have a manual for downloading. The Suburban HW heater in our 5th wheel has a manual which has an Installation section complete with written instructions and diagrams. I would imagine that a person could get a pretty good idea of how to remove it by looking at how it is installed.

Try going to the manufacturer's website and having a peek at the manual. Might work for you.

[scopx]

Do have the manual and it does provide general outline for installation, but not access, etc. Since posting did realize,and pulled off cover to central heat return that does, at least, provide visual access to rear of unit. Now to determine where water coming from.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Tom

[scopx]

Having gotten into the repairs, find and provide input that may hopefully may save some soul unnecessary time. My purpose for this quest was to determine source of water leak and correct.

Noticed water leak coming from several locations in area forward of wheels. As unit has a "winterized" underlayment, it was necessary to drop removing retaining screws on both sides and front rearward to axle spring hangers.

The underlayment, plastic membrane and insulation were soaked, so cut was made transverse (at spring hangers) from to remove and dry. Be careful as fresh water tank (on mine) is in this area.

After exam and again turning on water, isolated leak source near heater, which is under shower. (there is quite a maze of PEX plumbing.) After eliminating fittings and hoses, did pull the water heater out the left side. Of course it is necessary to turn off 120 electric power, turn off and plug propane line before pulling.
I was little confused, hence the query for layout as first effort to slide out was unsuccessful due to binding. I "attempted" to drain tank overnight to lighten load, but not much came out. (Later discovered a water check valve inline at exit of tank "hot" line was culprit. Surmise this installed to keep unknowing from dropping water level below heating element.) To drain, finally had to disconnect both lines and directing draining water through hole by hand as flooring OSB.
Due to cost of replacement with same size and type unit, had made decision to go with electric only. So cut off and eliminated 12v, extra off/on wiring, and 120 and placed aside for redo/elimination. The heater unit has a 2 piece clamshell styofoam insulation held by fiber banding straps. It is better to remove upper portion (access through central heat return in kitchen) prior to attempting removal as opening rather close fit.
I went with a single element type 2000Watt 120v which therefore required a 20AMP breaker, and upgrade wiring to 10 Gauge. The original wiring to unit was 14!!
As the door was fastened to heating unit, a conversion was made attaching door frame to coach with small head metal cutting screws. The door then attaches to frame. Some prefitting and adjustment to properly line up before final attachment of frame as these appear to be free cut on initial installation. It is my intention to use as alignment/spacers (black)concrete fiber joint strips as needed.
Am sure have forgotten some here. Your mileage may vary. No warranty or liability is inferred, stated or implied.
Tom

[byrdr1]

got pictures?

[hankaye]

scopx, Howdy;

I remember someone replaceing their HW Heater
about a year ago.
They had to remove their Stove and Oven to get to the
unit. Yours may or maynot be in that kind of location. The
main thing is , ..... it HAD to be done from INSIDE.
Good Luck, please keep us in the Loop.

hankaye

[scopx]

Will take some pictures this morning after daylight as still having problem. Not sure if it is circulation or faulty heater. The symptom is a short supply of "almost" hot water, then temp instantly drops to incoming as if pulling from cold rather than hot side. I have switched pex lines which made small improvement. Yesterday when messing with unit, turned heater to a more accessible location and raised temp setting..
A word of caution for those that have pex. My unit has an unusual rubber seal (unable to locate) that goes between male and female portion. This may be common with this type fitting.
Will show close-up. Did drop camera in papyrus shop in Cairo in Oct, so might be little fuzzy.
It is my intention at this time, to leave access door open during day(s) to accelerate drying of OSB flooring and watchful eye on hand tight water fittings. After such time I am satisfied all OK, will secure heater to flooring by running bead of "Great Stuff" between heater and OSB in accessible sections only.

[scopx]

A portion of pics relating to heater conversion from gas/electric to electric only,
The first is of the opening after suburban dual gas/electric removed. Rotate pic 90 to right. Note capped gas line at side of central heat unit.
The second is view across floor toward breaker box (hidden). Black ABS piping is from commode and wash sink from "upstairs". Orange cable is new 10G from breaker box.
The third view is pretty much the same, except from farther out, note vertical black pipe which is drain from shower above.
4th pic is new 6 gal electric heater which has elbow/reducers installed. Be sure and turn elbows correct orientation to make hookup easy. (Easier here than when in tight space.)
5th is almost duplicate of 2nd.

[scopx]

Some more pics.
1st is of a PEX piping fittings I am not familiar with. Uses a high grade insert between female and male brass connection to hold fitting "back" to insure good seal.
2nd is of old heater as it was oriented in 5th wheel.
3rd is of new heater installed. Note door frame (re)installed which was originally attached to heater rather than chassis.
4th is of "freedom" box used in this unit which did NOT require proprietary breakers-pleasant surprise. Note,I installed new 20A breaker on left end (was extra space there) rather than having to remove 15A. Orange wire not seen as "cut back" wiring cover to attach to individual contacts.
5th is view of kitchen wall plug. Note the quality workmanship in installation. It would appear that hole was "hogged" out with sharp object freehanded, and then glued in!

General notes: close tolerances, measure before buying heater, your opening may not allow: did work on wiring in while box hot, not recommended, elevated pucker factor, but not too bad if you do not wave screwdriver around in box; Did run wire from box and "curved" the cable while feeding as to head in correct direction, then reached across from heater return opening from inside to hand pull; ALLOW EXTRA CABLE TO MAKE HOOKUP EASY before cutting wire;

[scopx]

1st-rotate 90 to right to get good view of how "old" heater door fram was attached to alum chassis. Did this on both vertical sides after correct positioning.
2nd-old heater standing on end showing some of gray insulation,(hard) 2 piece which enclosed unit. Is much easier to remove before attempting to remove. Held by plastic "banding" straps.
3rd-underlayment out to dry. Will add as much aftermarket insulation as possible when going back. Like the ladies say, "it's better to have too much than too little," but wouldn't know about that.
Access was from both inside(central heat return) and outside(heater access door). Probably could be done from just outside, but found it easier to use both. Use gloves if you can work in them, I'm running out of scar tissue.