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03-06-2018, 02:29 PM
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#21
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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Like the re-chock after tires cool down post, never thought of that one, makes sense.
Of course we level our trailers while hitched from side to side using those plastic blocks or a variety of wooden blocks to drive up on and level...then we chock, unhitch and level front to back. Basic stuff I know but might help some.
I have a somewhat related question...I've purchased the Cougar rbs22 Half-Ton which has the electric stabilizer jacks. Both of them come down at the same time. When on unlevel ground, I'm assuming the first one will hit the ground and stop at the appropriate pressure while the other continues to the ground and again stop at the appropriate pressure?
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03-06-2018, 03:19 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dade City
Posts: 1,039
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After you Chock the wheels, unhook from the TV and run the Leveling jacks down you may find more movement inside the unit than you like. The X scissor chocks will help (we use both) along with a quality tripod pin support. Being new, it may help to develop a written procedure for hooking-up and the unhooking. Follow it and be safe. Make sure your partner helps and knows the procedure.
Make sure you get some good quality chocks, not those cheep plastic ones. They crack and brake when you need them most. If you can't run over them without braking they are no good.
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03-06-2018, 04:25 PM
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#23
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RagingRobert
Like the re-chock after tires cool down post, never thought of that one, makes sense.
Of course we level our trailers while hitched from side to side using those plastic blocks or a variety of wooden blocks to drive up on and level...then we chock, unhitch and level front to back. Basic stuff I know but might help some.
I have a somewhat related question...I've purchased the Cougar rbs22 Half-Ton which has the electric stabilizer jacks. Both of them come down at the same time. When on unlevel ground, I'm assuming the first one will hit the ground and stop at the appropriate pressure while the other continues to the ground and again stop at the appropriate pressure?
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That is correct.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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03-06-2018, 05:37 PM
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#24
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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Thanks @23 for the reassurance.
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03-06-2018, 06:53 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 26
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Thanks to everyone for all of your input. Learning invaluable information from all of you. Big Thanks
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03-08-2018, 05:42 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Midlands of South Carolina
Posts: 277
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I'll admit that there was one time that I thought that the DW had chocked the tires and I didn't verify this. The TT we had at that time only moved 2" but a 6000# TT will still knock you on your butt. And she was N O T happy about being knocked onto the butt. Now, we both circle the rig before doing anything silly like that again and that happened after we had been doing this for about 9 years.
__________________
Bill & Anne, Athena (cat), Jada (pup), and Cupcake (cat)
Retired Navy CPO, Vollie Firefighter and Industrial Maintenance Specialist
Wilson III: 2015 Ram Tradesman 2500 6.4l CC 4x4 SB
the gypsy, Belle III: 2018 Sprinter Limited 3531 FWDEN
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03-09-2018, 06:21 AM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afrnd2all
When you use auto leveling system on a 5er do you need to chuck the wheels?
Thanks in advance.
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Always chuck both sides. It maybe overkill on my part but I use 4 rubber chucks with eye bolts in the engs. A length of rope to tie them into pairs. This makes them easy to carry and to remove from the tires. The DW will place them when in position, the I put the truck in neutral and let it drift toward the negative slope tight against the chuck.. Then I kick the opposite side in tighter. As we have a TT then unhitch BEFORE removing safety chains. After it's unhitched I place the X-chocks to help prevent rocking fore and aft. Yes this process takes an extra few min. from my day but a few min may prevent a lifetime of regret.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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03-09-2018, 11:19 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rural Minnesota
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canonman
Absolutely!! Damned 5th wheels are hard to catch if they start rollin'
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Hell, the 5'er starts rolling and it's darn easy to catch. Problem comes when you try to stop it.
__________________
"Once you can accept the universe as matter expanding into nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid comes easy. " Albert Einstein
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03-09-2018, 02:12 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Kernersville
Posts: 83
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About chocking...don't forget to chock in the front AND back of the wheels. When you unhitch, the rig could come forward and then the rear chock wouldn't be tight against the tires
__________________
2003 RAM3500 SRW 5.9 Cummins with Smarty Programmer
2018 Montana High Country 362RD
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03-09-2018, 02:27 PM
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#30
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ajax
Posts: 431
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I think unhitching and my new RV moving even an inch would freak me out! This over-chocking is a smart idea....it's a serious/exciting/fun thing to be RVing...we need to do it right be safe.
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03-17-2018, 12:11 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Romeo
Posts: 142
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I always chock BOTH side of each tire ..
and on BOTH sides..
no need to twist the unit.
My opinion
__________________
2018 Cougar 359MBI
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