Sealant

[Sprinter274]

So I did a couple repairs on exterior my Sprinter and when disassembling the trim and aluminum, I found that the sealant is not your ordinary silicone....my question is what's the best product to use and if not silicon why not?

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[JRTJH]

There are a number of "non-silicone" based sealants that are available in tubes. Any of them are acceptable. Two that come to mind and are easy to use, DICOR "self leveling" (for the roof) and "no-sag" for the vertical surfaces where the EPDM rubber roof contacts the molding is a good choice.

On the fiberglass or aluminum vertical sides, many owners use BUTYL putty tape (not the clay based tape) under the molding/window flanges and then seal the edges with ProFlex Lap sealant.

You should not use a silicone based sealant because nothing (not even the same type of sealant) will adhere to it once it's cured. Silicone is an extremely slick "non-stick" compound. It is extremely difficult to work with once it's cured. To remove it and then reseal the surface where it was applied requires complete removal of the old product. In RV use, that's usually impractical to do.

Use a "non-silicone" product that will allow a "second application" to bond with the original, cleaned and prepared" coating.

[Sprinter274]

Interesting, thanks for the info. Was planning on stopping at my local RV store but was afraid they were going to tell me no with silicon just so I would HAVE to buy their product

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[therink]

Dicor or Proflex non leveling rv sealant. No silicone as stated.

[Sulphur1]

Silicon is unfortunately used for almost everything in Australia. Hard to get off, cannot paint or disassemble things and has a dirty finish from dust, etc.
I had difficulty obtaining the butyl tape you guys use when installing windows, etc.
I watched a US Utube demo on resealing windows and decided to use this method. After the window was installed the excess butyl sealant was cleaned off and a small bead of silicon applied on the outside edge. Keystone has done my 2011 299RK this way.
I intend to do the same tomorrow when installing a smaller window and door in the LHS as required for Aussie compliance. The thin bead of silicon is a good insurance against movement cracking in the butyl seal and prevents deterioration due to sun effects. It is easily removed with a plastic junk food knife or finger nail if required.
Have used Sikaflex 11FC urethane sealant/adhesive for any permanent bonding.
Cheers
Jon

[Sprinter274]

Hey Sulphur funny you say that. That's the same procedure the service tech at my local RV dealer recommended me to follow which I attempted on the rear quarter repairs I recently finished. However, I did also purchace some Dicor as everyone here mentioned and touched a few spots on the roof and seams (which BTW thank you to all who replied) but we recently picked this trailer up knowing it needed some tlc but with no internal leaks and roof in fair shape, im fixing the little things and plan on using it this season but will be doing a full inspection and properly resealing everything in the late winter into spring before next season.

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