Ecoflow independence kit

[Freedom Trucking]

Hello all, I have installed the independence kit into my Montana 3761fl. I still have shore or generator power capability for the heavy appliances like washer and dryerif I want to use them but now the daily use appliances and outlets including the new mini split are backed by 15kw of lithium 48 volt batteries. My next project as soon as it gets warm enough out is to remove the AC units from the roof and install 4800 watts of solar. You can follow updates and ask me questions on this thread or via a PM. I'll try to respond here as well but this doesn't notify me sometimes.

I started by opening up the areas that would house the new components, then removing all of the systems and wiring that were no longer needed. Those were the lead acid battery to be replaced with a battle born lithium. The power inverter that supplied aux power to the fridge had to be removed. The automatic junction box was removed as well. I removed the power converter and battery maintainer that we all know is garbage. I have this complete if you wish to purchase it. Super easy install BTW.

Once these were removed I identified the third AC automatic switch and removed it to be used at a later time in a different circuit.

I then took measurements and determined that the batteries would fit behind the wall of the forward pass through storage. I had to replace the ducting boot with a 90 boot to clear the batteries. Then move the water pump to make clearance. I then built a platform for the batteries to sit on above the wiring that is honestly a mess behind that wall.

I moved over to the smart distribution panel and began cutting the spot for it to fit into the false cabinet door as seen in the photos. Then I began swapping all of the 12 volt wiring and 120 circuits from the factory panel into the smart distribution panel.

I calculated the location of the smart hub inverter and began installing the batteries. I then ran the 120 input and wired it into a new qt 30 amp breaker in the factory panel. Then I ran the output 12v&120v to the smart distribution panel and mounted it up.

I mounted the smart hub to the storage pass through wall and plugged everything in. The solar cables are behind the wall and I'll run them up the chase to the roof when I install the solar. At this point I could button up the install.

I might start a new thread on my mini split install that used the AC automatic switch if this one gets enough interest and comments

[wiredgeorge]

Not much of a tech person myself... what is the purpose of thie "independence kit"? You might explain what you are doing as that would be interesting. Thanks.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Not much of a tech person myself... what is the purpose of thie "independence kit"? You might explain what you are doing as that would be interesting. Thanks.

The skeptic in me thinks this is just a sales pitch. The company has deals with social media partners including youtube and facebook,forum influencers Could be wrong but again i’m a born skeptic… i think the post originally had a link to another site,youtube or facebook as it was “easier” to follow along there

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Not much of a tech person myself... what is the purpose of thie "independence kit"? You might explain what you are doing as that would be interesting. Thanks.

Here's the link to the system: https://us.ecoflow.com/collections/p...40185531400265

Essentially, it's a $19,000 solar power system that's larger than any of the SolarFlex systems offered by Keystone (200, 400i, 600i and 1200i-L).

[RollaMo]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Essentially, it's a $19,000 solar power system....

Holy crap!

[notanlines]

“As soon as it gets warm enough I’m going to pull the AC’s from the roof”
I’m with Rolla here. I believe PT Barnum was correct…..

[chuckster57]

OP has removed “garbage” components but feel free to buy them?

[Canonman]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Here's the link to the system: https://us.ecoflow.com/collections/p...40185531400265

Essentially, it's a $19,000 solar power system that's larger than any of the SolarFlex systems offered by Keystone (200, 400i, 600i and 1200i-L).

WOAH!!!
Makes my $700 generator seem like a real bargain. And, my $200 solar kit a steal. I'll pass on a $19k solar/battery/inverter break-the-bank system and just go camping

[wiredgeorge]

Well, I for one would be very interested in how you install the mini-split system. I just put one in my living room (24000 btu) and really like it. My whole house A/C is prone to getting clogged with dog hair; I have installed a lift on the A coil so I can use fine 18x18 filters under the A coil for dust/fine stuff and use a coarse wire mesh filter below that to catch most of the dog hair. I have had to pull out the A coil on a yearly basis and clean it as spray cleaners don't quite get the job done. We now only have seven dogs but had 11 not so long ago and a couple are hair shedders.

The mini split in the living room keeps most of that area and the dining room/kitchen cool during the summer.

I am not sure I would have a place on the inside of my camper for the inside unit and am curious mostly about how you will route the wires/hoses from inside to outside. Will your unit be sized sufficiently to cool the bedroom? Where/how will you mount the outside unit?

[Freedom Trucking]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Well, I for one would be very interested in how you install the mini-split system. I just put one in my living room (24000 btu) and really like it. My whole house A/C is prone to getting clogged with dog hair; I have installed a lift on the A coil so I can use fine 18x18 filters under the A coil for dust/fine stuff and use a coarse wire mesh filter below that to catch most of the dog hair. I have had to pull out the A coil on a yearly basis and clean it as spray cleaners don't quite get the job done. We now only have seven dogs but had 11 not so long ago and a couple are hair shedders.

The mini split in the living room keeps most of that area and the dining room/kitchen cool during the summer.

I am not sure I would have a place on the inside of my camper for the inside unit and am curious mostly about how you will route the wires/hoses from inside to outside. Will your unit be sized sufficiently to cool the bedroom? Where/how will you mount the outside unit?

It's mounted already, I used 2.5x1x3/16 channel under the thin sheet metal of the forward storage box.

[wiredgeorge]

I have to ask how the slide will go over the tubing (in 3rd pic). Why not just drop the tubing straight down to the underside through the cabinet and follow along the frame. I can do this fairly easily I guess since I don't have the plastic stuff under my 5th wheel. Last, will you need to leave the compartment door to the outside unit open when operating the mimi-split? I have my mini-split on a 30A 220V single phase circuit; how is your unit powered? I know they make 110V units.

[Freedom Trucking]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

OP has removed “garbage” components but feel free to buy them?

Some people never unplug or are off of generator and this battery maintainer will make sure that the battery is both never full and never dead as long as it is plugged in. It's in like new condition as it is only 2 years old but yes it's garbage to me in design. The only reason these trailers have a battery is to run the fridge while traveling and to run the jacks once you get stopped. The power converter is weak and cannot pull those jacks even when plugged in so I replaced it with a battle born and a victron charge controller. Yes it's for sale because I'm not the type to waste anything. No it isn't my type of system but there are plenty of people out there that just go "camping" a time or two a year and these systems work fine for them.

[Freedom Trucking]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I have to ask how the slide will go over the tubing (in 3rd pic). Why not just drop the tubing straight down to the underside through the cabinet and follow along the frame. I can do this fairly easily I guess since I don't have the plastic stuff under my 5th wheel. Last, will you need to leave the compartment door to the outside unit open when operating the mimi-split? I have my mini-split on a 30A 220V single phase circuit; how is your unit powered? I know they make 110V units.

It is a 120v unit. If I went straight down it would have come out alongside the stinger and I would have had to work it through the frame after removing a bunch of the body. See the black box along the floor? That's the cover I built and the slide slips over it no problem and plenty of clearance. I do not have to have the doors open as you'll see in the pics. I separated the front into two compartments for intake and exhaust. Minimum blending of air.

[wiredgeorge]

Given you drive down some muddy/wet roads, are you concerned about stuff getting past the vent on the front? I would definitely consider some mud flaps on your truck. I would also NOT have room for my slide to slip over anything... I put LVT on my floor in the cabin and if I don't put down some slats of 1/8" plywood, the slide will scratch. I would have no problems following the frame as I said, there isn't coroplast on the underside except for under the water tank... never figured that out.

[JRTJH]

Looking at your installation, how have you found the heat buildup around the "outside unit" ??? We have a split unit to cool our sunroom on the back of our house. When installing it, the installation manual was "pretty adamant about maintaining sufficient clearances around the unit for proper operation"... That's why I abandoned the idea of adding one to our fifth wheel. I couldn't find any location (other than on the rear bumper) to install the outside unit AND maintain the required clearances.

How did you "conquer" that problem and has it affected your unit's "functional efficiency and ability" ? I'd be very disappointed to spend that kind of money for the unit and do an installation that would essentially prevent "going back to OEM" and then find out that in 1 or 2 seasons, the unit "burned itself up because of inadequate air clearances".....

Here's the required clearances on my unit:

[wiredgeorge]

Here is an article on mini-split install on an RV and it appears the most accepted place is to put a rack on the back which would require a bit of fabrication to ensure the rack is stable (weld to frame?) and you would plug into the existing A/C breaker I guess. I have seen 110V units that are supposed to use 8-9 Amps running that could probably plug into a camper's 20A breaker. On my camper, mounting the inside unit would be a bigger challenge I think I don't have much wall space. This article says 9K BTU would be adequate for most RVs (500 sq ft cooling) but I kind of doubt it. Hope the OP's install works out and hope he follows up with further posts. Quite a project.

https://www.hvachowto.com/what-is-th...rv-or-trailer/

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Here is an article on mini-split install on an RV and it appears the most accepted place is to put a rack on the back which would require a bit of fabrication to ensure the rack is stable (weld to frame?) and you would plug into the existing A/C breaker I guess. I have seen 110V units that are supposed to use 8-9 Amps running that could probably plug into a camper's 20A breaker. On my camper, mounting the inside unit would be a bigger challenge I think I don't have much wall space. This article says 9K BTU would be adequate for most RVs (500 sq ft cooling) but I kind of doubt it. Hope the OP's install works out and hope he follows up with further posts. Quite a project.

https://www.hvachowto.com/what-is-th...rv-or-trailer/

I'm as unsure about stepping down from a 15K BTU rooftop unit to a 9 or 10K BTU split unit as you are. My "Doubt buzzer goes wonkers" when I try to rationalize how stepping down 1/3 of the BTU capacity will improve cooling inside the trailer when the full 15K won't cool it, how the heck can 9K cool it better ?????

As a second unit to help the rooftop A/C, maybe it could improve overall cooling, but from a "rational perspective", so would adding a 9K rooftop unit to the bedroom, which would require a lot less "fabrication"....

That said, the split units are supposed to be more efficient, but to me, sweating while saving electricity isn't the goal... YMMV

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm as unsure about stepping down from a 15K BTU rooftop unit to a 9 or 10K BTU split unit as you are. My "Doubt buzzer goes wonkers" when I try to rationalize how stepping down 1/3 of the BTU capacity will improve cooling inside the trailer when the full 15K won't cool it, how the heck can 9K cool it better ?????

As a second unit to help the rooftop A/C, maybe it could improve overall cooling, but from a "rational perspective", so would adding a 9K rooftop unit to the bedroom, which would require a lot less "fabrication"....

That said, the split units are supposed to be more efficient, but to me, sweating while saving electricity isn't the goal... YMMV

I am pretty sure a mini-split would be much more effective than the 15K unit on my roof... how much so? Not sure and since it would not be ducted to the bedroom... well guess it would have to be used in addition to up roof unit. Adding a second unit to my bedroom roof would be just as much of a hassle as I have 30A service and the roof slants where the A/C would sit making a gasket problematic. I have a spare Dometic A/C I was going to mount but I don't think I could get a seal... on a 28' 5th wheel low-rise the edge slants too quickly. I need to get the extra A/C sold.

Not sure capacity of the OP's mini-split system but hope it is more than 8 or 9K btu. I have an additional 14.5K btu portable and I can assure you a window A/C or mini-split of 8K BTU would add more cooling; the dynamics of air conditioning are kind of magic more than science. My 14.5K BTU unit when also using the roof 15K BTU unit only drops the temp about 5 degrees on triple digit days but does allow inside temps to be 75F or so.

[chuckster57]

George:

I have seen lots of front AC units mounted on a tilt. There is a foam gasket that just needs to be compressed for an acceptable seal.

[Freedom Trucking]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Here is an article on mini-split install on an RV and it appears the most accepted place is to put a rack on the back which would require a bit of fabrication to ensure the rack is stable (weld to frame?) and you would plug into the existing A/C breaker I guess. I have seen 110V units that are supposed to use 8-9 Amps running that could probably plug into a camper's 20A breaker. On my camper, mounting the inside unit would be a bigger challenge I think I don't have much wall space. This article says 9K BTU would be adequate for most RVs (500 sq ft cooling) but I kind of doubt it. Hope the OP's install works out and hope he follows up with further posts. Quite a project.

https://www.hvachowto.com/what-is-th...rv-or-trailer/

Thank you for the reply, I installed a 12.5k. it only draws 900 watts running and 1200 peak. The roof 15k btu AC pulls almost 2000 watts running and 3500 watts on startup. The actual cooling is closer to 11k once it makes it's way through the roof system. My biggest issues are the noise followed by inefficiency. The mini split is essentially silent. I mean silent. Pm me for a link to a video of me talking in front of the running outdoor unit.

I designed this use to remove the roof AC units (there's two) so I can use the entire roof for solar and not increase the height of the RV. The vents will clear the underside and the panel rack will be shorter than the AC unit height. The solar will provide a roughly 12" shade gap on the roof which will help with cooling. Parking in the sun will allow me to run the AC and house power requirements and allow the batteries to recharge from any overnight usage.

On to the question of capacity and will it be sufficient for cooling. I am not sure yet but it doesn't matter. I'm starting with one to find out but I have plenty of battery and solar capacity to add a second one if it's not enough. The second one will be a bit more of a challenge because it'll go in the rear and have to be enclosed in the cargo area. The reason I'm not hanging mine off of the back of the trailer is I actually do go off paved roads and if you've seen the back of a trailer that's been on dirt you'll understand why I wouldn't want to expose it to that environment. Is it more work? Yes but the payoff is longevity.