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Old 03-19-2023, 06:07 AM   #1421
MarkEHansen
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Yes, it's the blue wires. Shorting them together is equivalent to the thermostat asking for heat. You can access the wires in the outside area near the back of the fridge.
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Old 03-19-2023, 09:12 AM   #1422
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Originally Posted by bigdave_185 View Post
I wrote in more detail on my thread but just for giggles ...

Next up is the ramp door with a hole from the Rzr flag holder. Note to self always double check wife n boys tie down job. ...

I have a 4x8’ sheet of diamond plate for The outside and silicone plus self taping screws on the outside. Just not sure for the inside
Possibly fill the hole with JB Weld, let it set up, then paint the entire inside of the ramp with brush-on "liquid liner" truck bed anti-skid. A gallon ought to do the entire ramp.
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Old 03-19-2023, 09:40 AM   #1423
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Possibly fill the hole with JB Weld, let it set up, then paint the entire inside of the ramp with brush-on "liquid liner" truck bed anti-skid. A gallon ought to do the entire ramp.

I hadn’t thought of the bed liner stuff. I considered bondo body filler
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Old 03-19-2023, 09:53 AM   #1424
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can’t remember if you said you have in·command? sure sounds like a relay on the furnace board clicking but if you have a standard thermostat,could it be the thermostat clicking that you hear?
The clicking is quite distinctly coming from the heater bay itself, under the fridge. I guess my next job is to check whether the tech missed a crimp, or maybe now it's the interior wire nuts loosening.
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Old 03-30-2023, 06:50 AM   #1425
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Out of storage

Went to the storage area a couple of times last week to use a "car broom" to get the snow on the roof down to a reasonable (melting) depth.


Installed batteries (on trickle charge over winter), removed cover, removed damp-rid containers in the trailer and checked for any rodent occupancy (none this year)...used Mouse Magic packets this year.



Everything looks good for the initial move to get it prepped for the season!
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Old 04-03-2023, 09:48 AM   #1426
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Phone bracket for cellular hotspot

I just sold my Winegard Gateway on Ebay that I've used over the past 2 years. I have a WifiRanger Osprey (now Winegard) which among other things allows tethering of a hotspot device.

When going to install, of course, the bracket hole patterns are different so I decided to make an adapter. This was just a quick attempt with what I had on hand will probably improve on it in the future. But I created a "pocket" in the adapter to place/hold the cell phone in the ceiling so it is neatly out of the way.

Next will be a temporary setup of the WeBoost to get a great better interior signal, although without the antenna this extra phone (service is Visible) seems to work fine streaming Direct TV streaming.
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Old 04-11-2023, 10:45 AM   #1427
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I'm camping in my parent's drive way if that counts lol. I'm also working from the camper this week. Since spending time in here I've noticed Keystone's build quality. My favorite part was noticing the blind tension screws were not properly attached to the wall. Noticed that right after one ripped out of the wall. Had to get some wall anchors to fix. Also got to dewinterize a second time since I did it too early lol.
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Old 04-11-2023, 07:44 PM   #1428
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Got to the first campground on this week's trip, and the damn furnace does nothing but click again. I'm about ready to shoot it...
So I had the tech out again yesterday. In the week since making the appointment, the furnace had started working and then stopped again, and (luckily) was still misbehaving when he showed up. We had a nice long chat about what it could and couldn't be. (I also wanted to stick around to see him extract the unit so I could do it myself from now on if I had to -- it was a lot easier than I had expected.)

He was buffaloed, just like I was. He decided to take it in to the shop and put it on the bench and give it a good going over. He mentioned one of the thermostat wires was at 0V and his experience was that it shouldn't be. Since the outdoor temps shot from a steady 69° straight to 80-90° just two days ago, it's not like I'll be missing a furnace for a while anyway.

Also flushed out my water heater, got some sediment like long paint flakes and the aluminum anode barely has corrosion salts on its surface after well over a year installed, so I'm just going to wire-brush it lightly and reinstall it.

My furnace tech has a supply of check-valves that fit the intake port of my heater, and is used to installing them in vivo (he says he never installs water heaters without adding them), so I think I'm going to have him do this for me when he comes back to reinstall my furnace, so I can go back to the magnesium anode rods for better protection.

(For background on my weird sediment migration problem, see here and here.)
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Old 04-12-2023, 03:15 AM   #1429
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The two blue wires (thermostat) will have 12V on one and nothing on the other, until the thermostat calls for heat. The 12V comes from the furnace on one of the wires and goes to the thermostat. When the thermostat calls for heat, it will basically connect the outgoing wire to the incoming one, sending 12V back to the furnace on the second wire.
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Old 04-12-2023, 07:26 AM   #1430
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The clicking is quite distinctly coming from the heater bay itself, under the fridge. I guess my next job is to check whether the tech missed a crimp, or maybe now it's the interior wire nuts loosening.
FWIW, just went through this on a buddies 5er. Turned out he needed a new furnace gas valve. His furnace is very similar to mine and they share many of the same parts. I carry all of the parts necessary to field repair my furnace (after a few experiences of non-functioning furnace while camping).

His was also just clicking but no ignition. After checking all of the other components and tracing current through the system to see if we could find the problem we decided to pull and check the gas valve. Not very scientific, but we put 12v power to the valve to open it and put a small air inflator on the gas inlet to check what kind of flow we were getting. Then we did the same thing to the new one I had with me. Much more flow on the new one. We installed the new one and his has been working just fine ever since.
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Old 04-12-2023, 08:31 AM   #1431
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The two blue wires (thermostat) will have 12V on one and nothing on the other, until the thermostat calls for heat. The 12V comes from the furnace on one of the wires and goes to the thermostat. When the thermostat calls for heat, it will basically connect the outgoing wire to the incoming one, sending 12V back to the furnace on the second wire.
Ya... the thermostat was calling for heat, you could hear a single relay click from the furnace compartment when the heat was 'turned on," and another when it was "turned off." We had it "turned on" while he was testing voltages.

I doubt the problem is the furnace gas valve. That failure shouldn't even show up until after the fan starts and the sail switch affirms, and the fan never even tries to start. (Hm... maybe the problem is a bad fan or bad fan wiring.)
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Old 04-12-2023, 12:39 PM   #1432
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Are you able to observe the main board when setting the TStat for heat? Just curious what the red light is doing.
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Old 04-12-2023, 01:01 PM   #1433
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Are you able to observe the main board when setting the TStat for heat? Just curious what the red light is doing.
No. The furnace is buried under the fridge, there is no external hatch, the board is up against the outside wall, and you have to detach the propane line to get the furnace out where you can see it.

The factory board was replaced with a Dinosaur board in February, made absolutely no difference.
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Old 04-12-2023, 01:04 PM   #1434
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No. The furnace is buried under the fridge, there is no external hatch, the board is up against the outside wall, and you have to detach the propane line to get the furnace out where you can see it.

The factory board was replaced with a Dinosaur board in February, made absolutely no difference.
just a shot in the dark but there was a post the other day with a furnace and refrigerator wired on the same 12 volt circuit…what if yours is as well and when the refrigerator is starting or running you get a voltage drop at the furnace intermittently
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Old 04-12-2023, 01:31 PM   #1435
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If so, then one symptom I should see is that occasionally the furnace runs, but shuts off before it reaches temp because the fridge comes on. It's possible I've seen this behavior. Unfortunately, I can't test for it now because the furnace is at the shop. The tech tested the voltage on his last visit and seemed happy with it, but the furnace wouldn't run.
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Old 04-12-2023, 02:28 PM   #1436
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No. The furnace is buried under the fridge, there is no external hatch, the board is up against the outside wall, and you have to detach the propane line to get the furnace out where you can see it.

The factory board was replaced with a Dinosaur board in February, made absolutely no difference.
My buddy’s furnace is under the fridge as well. We removed it to see what was happening. In theory you should be able to have it run up to attempting to ignite. You should also hear the propane valve open when it does. What we discover is that the 12v line supplying the furnace was actually running under voltage so the blower wouldn’t even start. Connecting it to a solid power source (13.5v or higher) spun it right up.
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Old 04-25-2023, 10:12 AM   #1437
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The furnace saga continues.

Tech arrived with my unit. He said the Dometic housing is shaped such that the sail switch isn't always free to swing completely, causing unpredictable voltage to the furnace. He reshaped it, a job he does often. He also tightened a couple of the board lead connectors, and said the unit worked 100% perfectly on the bench.

While reinstalling it, he found he had lost his photo of my wiring (the dealer extended the furnace cable with 4-way trailer wire, so all the wrong colors). He had to rederive which leads were which. He couldn't find voltage. After checking the inCommand cabling at the interface box in the A/C (perfect) and seeing great DC in but no furnace voltage out of it, he's now confident that the interface box itself is plotz. (This is not the gateway box, which I've already had replaced.) This is the third possibility so far that perfectly explains all the symptoms. He says they're "not that expensive." I guess I'll find out what that means.

When he reconnected the ductwork, I saw the far end of the skinny duct (the one that warms the tank cavity) flip up out of the floor cutout. I asked him if it had got ripped. He looked at the loose end and said it was obviously never connected to anything. He felt down inside and said, "There's a sheet metal duct in yours. I guess they just stuck the round duct inside it and let it rip. There's a cap made for that, I don't know why they didn't put it in."

I didn't even get my check valve installed in the water heater -- he said he was out of them and was having a hard time getting them from his supplier. So basically a tech visit today with no tangible improvements whatsoever.

On the other hand, I successfully installed a new toilet valve (cracked the mounting clip off the factory one tapping it to get sediment out of the screen), so that's my sole success story today. Looking forward to getting this check valve installed so I can go back to a magnesium anode, as this aluminum one barely grew surface crystals over 18 months.
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Old 04-27-2023, 10:58 AM   #1438
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Honey do

My wife seen one of these and ask me to get us one. Pretty slick and easy install.
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Old 04-27-2023, 11:35 AM   #1439
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Installed a Haloview rear observation camera yesterday.
Had Goodyear Endurance tires mounted today.
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Old 04-27-2023, 11:40 AM   #1440
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My wife seen one of these and ask me to get us one. Pretty slick and easy install.
IF that is from rvlock.com they can get you locks for your compartments that match that key. You have to call / order them from their site and not through amazon or some other distributor but seems to be worth the money (to us)
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