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Old 03-02-2023, 08:12 AM   #1
wayno
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No outside outlets. want to add one.

Cougar 25RES has no outside receptacles.
there is one inside the front storage bay door for a TV.
I would like to add an outside receptacle probably just behind the front bay door and come off the inside receptacle.
can or should this be done?
any thoughts?
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Old 03-02-2023, 08:34 AM   #2
jsb5717
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Just about anything can be done with the right know-how and the right tools. It feels a little weird cutting a hole in the exterior fiberglass but can certainly be done. Measure twice, cut once. Buy a good electrical box designed to sit outdoors that can be sealed to the exterior. Then run your wires. It doesn't sound difficult...just take your time.

Also, welcome aboard! Stick around and jump in to the conversations.

A cover like this might be the ticket
https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Weath...y_p_34886.html
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Old 03-02-2023, 08:44 AM   #3
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I don't see why it couldn't be done. It would be just like adding an extra outdoor receptacle on your home.
Others may see some reason you shouldn't do it. It's up to you to agree or disagree with them.

You will need to cut a hole in your TT wall. If you have the correct tools to do a clean cut (I would use an oscillating saw) and know how to wire a duplex plug I would say to go for it.

You will need a weatherproof cover like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Exterior-Powe...58639145&psc=1

Since it is outside, I would use a GFCI duplex like this 20 amp one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...09857-23-12140

I would also use 12/3 wire. I tend to overbuild most everything.




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Old 03-02-2023, 09:57 AM   #4
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Your plan is very do-able. I've added plugs in my previous campers (inside) and added outside plugs (at home) and outside light switches for 2-way operation (inside and outside switch porch lights). A camper is no different. You can do it.

I do have one suggestion, if at all possible, you might consider adding outside USB plugs too. There are all sorts of outlets available these days that have both standard 120 volt (3 pronged) plugs and have a USB plug in them also. When I remodeled our front living room (about 2 years ago), I replaced all the wiring and added many more plugs. In each corner of the room, I added a normal 120v, 3 pronged outlet that had 2 built in USB ports. Never in a hundred years would there ever be something plugged into every outlet. If so, it would probably blow the breaker in a heatbeat. BUT, the ability to use any spot in the room without extension cords is NOW wonderful!

And amazing, almost every USB outlet in that room now has something plugged into it charging something.

Anyway, it's just something you might consider. USB powered devices are become the standard these days, so it seems.

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Old 03-02-2023, 11:12 AM   #5
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As long as you know what you are doing, it can certainly be done. There are of course warranty concerns if something shorted out, or if there was water intrusion, or if there was an issue with the fiberglass exterior. It really all depends on how badly you want that outlet.

The one I installed has 2 integrated USB ports. Keep in mind that unlike the factory interior USB ports that feed off the 12v DC system, these are powered from the 110v AC system so unless that outlet has power (either shore power, generator power or inverter), the USB ports on that outlet won’t work.
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Old 03-02-2023, 07:24 PM   #6
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If the circuit to the outlet in the storage compartment is a 15 amp circuit, use a 15 amp outlet. The circuit should also already be a GFCI protected circuit, so DO NOT install another GFCI outlet on the outside box, as daisy chaining GFCI outlets will not work. Be sure you check everything before you cut any holes.
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Old 03-03-2023, 09:18 AM   #7
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I would take the "advice and how to steps" provided by the guy in the red shirt in that second video with a great deal of scepticism. Simply wrapping a "live outlet with black electrical tape and stuffing it into a hole in the exterior skin of an RV, IMO, goes against all logical safety requirements for installing an outlet in a "wet location, or exterior location"....

I'd highly recommend NOT installing any live electrical outlet using that video as a guide for "safe installs"....
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Old 03-03-2023, 09:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I would take the "advice and how to steps" provided by the guy in the red shirt in that second video with a great deal of scepticism. Simply wrapping a "live outlet with black electrical tape and stuffing it into a hole in the exterior skin of an RV, IMO, goes against all logical safety requirements for installing an outlet in a "wet location, or exterior location"....

I'd highly recommend NOT installing any live electrical outlet using that video as a guide for "safe installs"....
Totally agree! Sure, you can absolutely add an outlet to the exterior of your RV. But still follow the best practices, or better...general residential code requirements, for the install. You'll need a larger hole to utilize a properly rated electrical box.
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Old 03-06-2023, 10:24 AM   #9
wayno
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thanks for all the great input.
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Old 03-06-2023, 10:44 AM   #10
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My Cougar has a 110 volt outlet in front compartment also. I simply use a short extension cord for other outside use locations.
If you do decide to cut a hole in your wall for another outlet just remember that RV walls are not as deep as house walls when selecting a cutting method.
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Old 03-07-2023, 05:53 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I would take the "advice and how to steps" provided by the guy in the red shirt in that second video with a great deal of scepticism. Simply wrapping a "live outlet with black electrical tape and stuffing it into a hole in the exterior skin of an RV, IMO, goes against all logical safety requirements for installing an outlet in a "wet location, or exterior location"....

I'd highly recommend NOT installing any live electrical outlet using that video as a guide for "safe installs"....
This is the scary thing about "Expert YouTube videos", the experts are NOT experts!! I agree the guy in the second video gives very bad information!!
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Old 03-10-2023, 08:10 AM   #12
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Don't forget other opportunities

When you have the opportunity, don't discount using the power available on most power poles in most RV parks. You don't necessarily need to run your power through your rig if you don't have to, even having to use an extension cord off of the outside power pole is better, IMHO.
I use the power pole to not only do outside things like woodworking on occasion, but I've also put in a pass through to be able to plug in my portable electric heater. I am not an electrical expert.
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Old 03-10-2023, 09:41 AM   #13
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When you have the opportunity, don't discount using the power available on most power poles in most RV parks. You don't necessarily need to run your power through your rig if you don't have to, even having to use an extension cord off of the outside power pole is better, IMHO.
I use the power pole to not only do outside things like woodworking on occasion, but I've also put in a pass through to be able to plug in my portable electric heater. I am not an electrical expert.
I agree.
I use the 20 amp pedestal power as much as possible using a HD extension cord with a 3 plug-in end. I often bring a mini fridge for my adult beverages on my long weekend trips, so I don't have to go inside when the weather is nice, and I don't want that plugged into my rig.
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Old 03-10-2023, 01:05 PM   #14
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Agree with above ^^^. Our unit is only 30 Amp so I use a 25' #12 wire extension cord and throw it under the trailer. It comes out the curb side under the Thule shelf that clips onto the side of the camper. That's where we use the toaster, electric skillet and portable ice maker. In cold weather I plug into the side of the camper where I installed a 20 Amp flush mount male connector that feeds recepticals inside that we use for ceramic heaters.
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Old 03-10-2023, 05:57 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I would take the "advice and how to steps" provided by the guy in the red shirt in that second video with a great deal of scepticism. Simply wrapping a "live outlet with black electrical tape and stuffing it into a hole in the exterior skin of an RV, IMO, goes against all logical safety requirements for installing an outlet in a "wet location, or exterior location"....

I'd highly recommend NOT installing any live electrical outlet using that video as a guide for "safe installs"....
The scariest part is that he honestly doesn’t know what’s wrong with his install, if you read the comments on the video. 2 people said not to do it and he asked them what was wrong with it.
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Old 03-11-2023, 08:17 AM   #16
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The scariest part is that he honestly doesn’t know what’s wrong with his install, if you read the comments on the video. 2 people said not to do it and he asked them what was wrong with it.
No, I didn't watch the complete video or read any of the comments. When I got to the part where he started wrapping black electrical tape around the exposed 12- VAC connections on the outlet, I concluded that this is "some idiot showing us how to do a hack job"... I stopped at that point and put his "instructions" on complete disregard .....

Life's too damn short as it is without becoming one of those who "tempts the life cycle with BAD advice".....

Maybe I should go back and watch it again.... Nah, I'd rather go sit in the pole barn and "contemplate the snow melting so I can take the Slingshot out for a ride".....
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Old 03-12-2023, 04:45 AM   #17
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My two cents is a ground fault plug outside. I would also suggest a plastic shallow old work box cut in snug with some butyl tape and then sealed with non sag sealant or proflex. If you decide not to use a box I would suggest slipping in some 1" wide x 1 1/2" pieces of 20 ga ish galvanized backing metal between the wood and foam just as a screw backer so the cover stays tight to the siding. You just have to know whats behind it but if you look inside at your speakers you can see how they are mounted. The wall is 1" rigid foam covered by 1/8" paneling inside and 1/8" luaun and filon outside. Look on the paneling inside to see if you can see any putty where the paneling is nailed to framing, seam tape may not fall on framing.
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