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11-17-2019, 09:18 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,138
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Solder Connectors
I’ve seen these advertised in Instagram and they popped up when I bought some plugs to wire some lights in the truck. I ordered some and was curious if anyone has tried them?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ9VXZF..._gcy0DbG6N2FP5
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11-17-2019, 09:22 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,349
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Another tech ordered a bunch. He used them to replace the front cap lights on a trailer. 2 months later I had to redo his work and found they failed. Another tech has had good luck with them. Im not a big fan.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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11-17-2019, 09:33 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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We tried that "technology" in the Air Force 20 years ago. The problem we had then (and I'd suspect now) is the inability to determine whether you have a cold solder joint, if there's proper seating of the two wires in the solder bed and whether the solder fully engulfed the wire at the solder joint.
We eventually went back and replaced every one of them with "tried and true" tinning, soldering and shrink tubing installation.
Like chuckster said, some work, some don't... I'd suspect it's as much a "technician technique" as it is a "materials deficiency"...
I prefer the old "tin, solder, insulate" process.... Honestly, for as little as most of us make wire connections, using a "shortcut that might not work" is really not much of a "time saver" as it is a "novelty approach"....
Now, if I was making 1000 connections a day, I'd look for every process that might save a few seconds. That said, chances are very good that by installing that many on a daily basis, I'd develop a "never fail technique"... But, installing 2 this week and 2 more next year ??? I'd be concerned with "technician issues".....
JMHO, but I wouldn't use them.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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11-17-2019, 09:43 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
Another tech ordered a bunch. He used them to replace the front cap lights on a trailer. 2 months later I had to redo his work and found they failed. Another tech has had good luck with them. Im not a big fan.
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That just makes me think that maybe it was "operator error". When I was young my friends would ask me to install their aftermarket radios and amps. This was when the new fangled "solderless terminals" were hitting the market.
A lot of guys would try to crimp the connectors with a pair of pliers, some would by those cheap "made in Japan" (really dating myself) crimpers that would bend if you just looked at them. Those folks deemed them "useless" but I never had an issue. Of course I was using a set of Klines wire strippers, and Klein's terminal crimpers and used either heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape to seal it all up. Also I would use good quality terminals and not the stuff from the "dime store".
Never had an issue and I had followed a lot of work where the incorrect wire stripper was used and there was one or strands of wire remaining in the terminal, terminals that were crimped on the insulation and not the conductor,and on and on. So I've not tried the new connectors yet but after seeing them the my first thought was "I wonder how long the learning curve for the Saturday afternoon tinkerer would be".
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-17-2019, 09:47 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,349
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The ones they had used a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the ends. It seemed like it took just as long as it would to do it the old fashioned way.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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11-17-2019, 10:01 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
The ones they had used a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the ends. It seemed like it took just as long as it would to do it the old fashioned way.
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Same issues, if the person doesn't know how to properly strip and connect the wires (especially while making a butt connection, and know where and how much heat to apply with the soldering gun then they will end up with a mess as well.
I've cleaned up a bunch of those messes as well. The "tell tale" sign often was the burn marks on the carpet/mats where they dropped the molten solder.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-17-2019, 11:31 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 382
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I would be concerned that a heat gun is not hot enough to get a proper solder joint. it may melt the "low temp" solder but is it hot enough for a proper bond or are you getting just a bunch of cold solder joints which in essence is a week crimp joint....
Steve
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11-17-2019, 03:29 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stircrazy
I would be concerned that a heat gun is not hot enough to get a proper solder joint. it may melt the "low temp" solder but is it hot enough for a proper bond or are you getting just a bunch of cold solder joints which in essence is a week crimp joint....
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Same here. If this solder flows under just a heat gun, I wouldn't dare use it here in desert Arizona, where 120° is not an uncommon occurrence, and that's out where the air is circulating freely, not inside a metal box, where it is worse.
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2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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11-17-2019, 03:47 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,757
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As I previously stated I haven't used these but 2 questions come to mind.
1. What is the melting temp of the "low melting temp solder"? Heat Guns I've used get hot enough to blister paint and set paper on fire so I'm guessing they get much hotter than the desert air.
2. If it was applied properly and the heat shrink tubing provided a waterproof seal wouldn't the solder still stay in place?
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-17-2019, 03:54 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,314
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I've use the crimp style butt connectors that have waterproof heat shrink on them. My experience has been that if you heat them up overly with the heat gun, the heat shrink plastic splits and fizzles. I agree that the heat gun is capable of putting out a lot of heat, but plastic heat shrink connectors typically aren't prepared to accept everything that the gun can throw at them. This solder is inside the plastic, so it can only get as hot as the plastic can handle. Even if you make a good seal on both sides, I would worry about the thing ending up like a mercury switch -- all run down to one end, and the wires exposed. I haven't used them, but I would want to have a lot of experience with them in exposed and accessible areas before using them anywhere else.
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2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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11-17-2019, 03:59 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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Interesting questions and thoughts. I've never used them but have done thousands the "old" way. On the other hand, I did buy a large box of the assorted connectors because they "looked neat" but haven't used a single one....but I will at some point. One of those couple this year....and a couple next year guys these days. Guess I'll find out when I use them then test them. I too have the same questions you guys do.
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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11-17-2019, 04:23 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,757
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Will be interesting to hear your experiences when you get to try them out. I'm not a "newer or different is better" kinda guy. Neither am I "we've always done it this way" person either. My theory is if we do it because we always did it then we would all still be wearing diapers (I know, I know we most likely will END UP in them again) LOL.
I'm sure the shipbuilders never thought anything but wood would be used, or when steel came about it would always be fastened with rivets. And who would have thought in the 1960's that engine manifolds and radiator tanks would be plastic? I never imagined that a "glued on fender" would hold up but her we are a couple of decades later and they aren't falling off.
While I love advancements in technology it's been my experience that "gimmickries'" are often advertised as "new technology" and to jump on that bandwagon can be costly either because your part of the experiment and paying for the R&D or it's a gimmick and you get "ripped off". I guess time will bear witness on the worthiness.
JMHO
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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11-20-2019, 04:13 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,138
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I’m going to give them a go. They are going on bumper light, so they are easy to get to if I need to replace them. It will be a good experiment now to see if they are ok. I’ll post pics as I start putting it all together. Waiting on some ends to that I’m going to use to make connections. I was going to put shrink tube over them as well, so hoping to keep them together and water proof due to location. Thanks for input.
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2017 Alpine 3661FL: For Sale
2021 Vilano
2020 F350 Crew DRW 6.7, 4x4, 10 sod auto, 4:10 gears
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11-20-2019, 05:20 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Dover, Delaware
Posts: 60
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I've used them a few times in the past. I found them to be extremely fussy to get right. Not enough heat and you don't get a good connection, too much heat and every thing overmelts and burns. It was a very fine line between the two. As others have said, as few connections as I do these days, it's quicker and easier for me to do it the old fashioned way with strippers and crimpers and then shrink tube.
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Frank & E.B.
2011 3540RL alpine
2009 F-250 Lariat CC 6.4L
U.S.A.F. (ret.) 1976-1996
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11-20-2019, 07:51 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 3,015
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It’s a nice concept... I have worked in aircraft for over 35 years and also in semi conductor machine manufacturing equipment.
I would not ever use this connector. Either a properly prepared wire and good mechanical butt splice or two wires twisted together to make mechanical connection then solder.
Low temp solder is just a cold solder joint waiting to happen ... especially if on an RV where road vibration plays havoc on connections
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2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
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11-20-2019, 09:23 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS
It’s a nice concept... I have worked in aircraft for over 35 years and also in semi conductor machine manufacturing equipment.
I would not ever use this connector. Either a properly prepared wire and good mechanical butt splice or two wires twisted together to make mechanical connection then solder.
Low temp solder is just a cold solder joint waiting to happen ... especially if on an RV where road vibration plays havoc on connections
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Maybe I’ll do a side by side by side. One of these, a regular butt connector and a hand solder/wrap.
They are going in the bumper of wife’s truck. She’s not an off-roader by any means but it will give me a chance to see.
I’ve never soldered wire together. I’ve always used butt connectors and really have never liked them. I always don’t crush enough and the wire comes out as I’m working down the line, or I crush too much and the connector is cracked and I’m worried about sparking.
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11-20-2019, 03:30 PM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishsizzle
Maybe I’ll do a side by side by side. One of these, a regular butt connector and a hand solder/wrap.
They are going in the bumper of wife’s truck. She’s not an off-roader by any means but it will give me a chance to see.
I’ve never soldered wire together. I’ve always used butt connectors and really have never liked them. I always don’t crush enough and the wire comes out as I’m working down the line, or I crush too much and the connector is cracked and I’m worried about sparking.
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Just run a length of heat shrink up one of the wires and after you crimp slide the heat shrink over the connection. If one of the connectors cracked the heat shrink will go right over it.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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11-20-2019, 04:43 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 503
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__________________
2018 Cougar 26RBS
2016 Chevrolet 3500DRW D/A
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11-21-2019, 05:54 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Northern Idaho
Posts: 62
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I think people often forget that you also want a good mechanical connection, as well as the electrical. If those reflow the solder using a heat gun, I would be concerned about how much contact is actually being made with the wire... how much has flowed around each strand. Nope not a good idea in my opinion. (30+ yrs in electronics/electrical/mechanical mfg after USAF)
Not much beats twisting your wires together, soldering with a good flux core solder, and finishing off with adhesive lined heat-shrink. You won't have any problems.
The handlebars on my Harley are testament to that process. I had to add extensions to the wires, when I ran them internally. No issues.. after 8 years and 70,000 miles... and it's not a touring model
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Rich
'09 Keystone Fuzion FZ403, Touring Edition, 244 of 300.
'08 Chevy Duramax
Full-time in my Fuzion since 2011
USAF Vet. B-52G Crewchief.
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11-21-2019, 06:01 AM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archergodwin
I think people often forget that you also want a good mechanical connection, as well as the electrical. If those reflow the solder using a heat gun, I would be concerned about how much contact is actually being made with the wire... how much has flowed around each strand. Nope not a good idea in my opinion. (30+ yrs in electronics/electrical/mechanical mfg after USAF)
Not much beats twisting your wires together, soldering with a good flux core solder, and finishing off with adhesive lined heat-shrink. You won't have any problems.
The handlebars on my Harley are testament to that process. I had to add extensions to the wires, when I ran them internally. No issues.. after 8 years and 70,000 miles... and it's not a touring model
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I agree. When I was in the Air Force, we tried using a similar type connector ON TEST EQUIPMENT as they were/are "outlawed on aircraft"... We wound up going back and replacing all of them as they started failing with use. We went back to tinning, soldering and wrapping/heat shrinking all connections. Lesson learned was "cold solder creates cold solder joints"...
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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