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Old 07-13-2013, 03:48 PM   #1
epic44
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Suburban SF30 Furnace Need Advise

The furnace is out of the trailer. I was going to take it to the dealer as I am not sure which component is bad. It is also summer and have time to fix it. It tries to start but doesn't. I can hear a faint click until it locks out. Electrode, module board ?? The trailer is nine years old. Could keep replacing parts till it works.

How do you get into the outlet line from the valve to remove it? No room to get leverage to loosen this fitting. Need to do that to get at the electrode. Playing the odds which is likely to fail first?u
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:30 AM   #2
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Clean the carbon off the electrode, if it fails to spark after that, check the wire leading to the electrode, if it is intact (not shorted to ground) and you don't hear any "arcing" it's probably the control board. They have a couple of "failure prone" components and to have one working after 9 years is pretty remarkable. I'd look at replacing the control board if you don't hear any "arcing" and there's no "sparking"

You could also have a number of other problems preventing ignition such as gas valves, sail switches, etc. But the most probable, I think, is the ignitor carboned up or the control board (especially after 9 years).

Dinosaur makes an excellent aftermarket board that is actually cheaper (depending on where you buy it) than OEM and my experience is they are more reliable than OEM.

Good luck
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:29 PM   #3
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What is the tool to remove the gas outlet nut buried in the components. Basin wrench.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
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What is the tool to remove the gas outlet nut buried in the components. Basin wrench.
It should be a common 3/4" open end wrench. That's what fits most of the standard gas outlet nuts. Take your tool box with you and keep trying open end wrenches until you find the one that fits....

Oh, and if you decide to use a "fitzall" (Crescent wrench) Make sure you use the SAE version, the metric one won't fit "American furnaces" <wink>
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:29 AM   #5
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Oh, and if you decide to use a "fitzall" (Crescent wrench) Make sure you use the SAE version, the metric one won't fit "American furnaces" <wink>
I told someone that the other day and they said, "I don't think we have a metric crescent wrench, but let me go look." I then told them to put the tools down because I did not think they should be working on ANYTHING!!
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:11 AM   #6
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I told someone that the other day and they said, "I don't think we have a metric crescent wrench, but let me go look." I then told them to put the tools down because I did not think they should be working on ANYTHING!!
It is frightening at times, isn't it???? But really, there are "metric crescent wrenches"... I have a couple I bought in Germany while we were stationed there. They are 203MM (8") and 254MM (10") wrenches... So, when I get a real "expert" working around the shop, I ask for my "metric crescent" and after the arguments, I pull one out, there it is, clearly marked on the handle where 8" or 10" would be on an "American Crescent" is the metric equivalent. It makes for some interesting "crawfishing" from the experts at times
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #7
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BUT YOU LEFT OUT The left hand monkey wrench For the aircraft mechanics. tell the line boy you need 5 gallons of propwash and a 100 yards of flightline!
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:00 PM   #8
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My SF 30 had the same problem, it tried to start and wouldn't and after the second time it quit I pulled the furnace out and checked the metering jet and it was plugged.

I cleaned it out and the furnace worked for about 3 weeks and it quit again so this time I used a rust compound to seal the inside of the pipe and it hasn't quit since.

Lorne M.
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