Main Door Threshold Loose

Baldy · 06-11-2021, 11:10 AM

I have the gas strut stop on both my travel trailer doors. The aluminum threshold on the main door (the one in the front) is loose from the painted vertical hinge stile on the door frame. When the door is in the full open position the threshold deflects maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Hopefully you can see this in the pictures.

On the bathroom door (the rear one) the threshold is fastened securely to the door frame so I don't have an issue here.

Can I just add a flat head screw through the threshold into the floor material like they did with the transition plate (it's kind of loose)? What is that floor made of and will it hold a screw under this kind of stress? If there are any best practices to resolve this problem I'd love to hear about them.

Thanks in advance.

Weldon · 06-14-2021, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baldy

I have the gas strut stop on both my travel trailer doors. The aluminum threshold on the main door (the one in the front) is loose from the painted vertical hinge stile on the door frame. When the door is in the full open position the threshold deflects maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Hopefully you can see this in the pictures.

On the bathroom door (the rear one) the threshold is fastened securely to the door frame so I don't have an issue here.

Can I just add a flat head screw through the threshold into the floor material like they did with the transition plate (it's kind of loose)? What is that floor made of and will it hold a screw under this kind of stress? If there are any best practices to resolve this problem I'd love to hear about them.

Thanks in advance.

I will let Chuckster or John answer, since they know way more than me. Personally, I would take off the strut , remove the plate, and see what is under, what came loose, and go from there. Then either use an adhesive or screw.

**chuckster57** · 06-14-2021, 04:56 PM

That plate with the screws should be on top of the threshold. If you take it off you’ll see the lip. I would be looking at the screws on both sides of the door, underneath the screw cover. Make sure they are tight and if they are loose/stripped then move the screw or add another. Once you have the door “sucked back in” then re install the curved piece.

**JRTJH** · 06-14-2021, 05:22 PM

To add to Chuck's post, there is no access under the actual door threshold (the flat part where the gas piston is attached to the ball). That threshold is flat ton top and has a 90 degree bend that goes completely to the trailer floor. The only way under it is to remove the entire door assembly from the trailer. You DO NOT want to do that !!!!! Just inside the door threshold you'll find a curved transition. That "curved transition" snaps over the threshold lip. Look at the curved part and you'll see how it "fits over the threshold" to lock the threshold in place. There are usually 3 screws holding the curved transition in place. In the "5/8" solid decking floors" those three screws stay secure and tight. On the "sandwich floors" there's only 1/4" or 3/8" OSB to hold the screws. They WILL (not might, they WILL) pull out of the thin floor decking. This is caused by the "gas piston pulling against the transition, pulling the screws, causing it to loosen and once the curved transition is loose, the door threshold will pull away, allowing the gas piston to "cause the transition to wobble when the door is opened"...

As Chuck suggested, make sure the door is pushed tightly against the trailer sidewall and the threshold is in position. Make sure the curved transition is "clipped over the flange on the threshold" and make sure the curved transition is in the correct position to lock the threshold in place. Once this is done, install the three screws and tighten the screws in the curved transition. If those screws are stripped or will not tighten, drill three new holes (centered along the curved transition) and install them. That will be a total of 6 screws. If they also will not pull tight, you may have water damage under the vinyl. In that case, you'll need to do further investigation to determine the extent of damage. If the screws do pull tight, you should have solved the "wobbling threshold" problem.....

skids · 06-15-2021, 07:18 AM

No way to drill through the floor and use washers and lock nuts on long screws? It is probably not possible due to the steps assembly in the way.

**chuckster57** · 06-15-2021, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skids

No way to drill through the floor and use washers and lock nuts on long screws? It is probably not possible due to the steps assembly in the way.

If you drilled through the threshold and floor, the heads of the bolts would stick up and may prevent the door from closing.

Baldy · 06-15-2021, 09:58 AM

Thanks to all that took the time to reply. I appreciate it.

You guys nailed it. The curved transition strip screws are loose, and that strip is not locked onto the door threshold lip. I guess that transition strip will have to be securely fastened to eliminate the wobble I was hoping the threshold would fasten to the door frame). Maybe I'll get lucky and can just tighten those screws (don't know why I didn't try that yet).

Thanks for describing the "sandwich floor" composition. I can see that it will be tough to get a screw into 1/4 in. OSB to hold the transition strip against the force of the door opening after camping last weekend with the grand kids. Adding three more screws as suggested will really help.

Anyone ever try a plastic expansion anchor (like we use in drywall) into the sandwich floor and see if that provides some extra anchoring force?

Thanks again. I'll report back and let you know how the repair works out. I don't want to think about water damage....

**chuckster57** · 06-15-2021, 10:14 AM

Try bamboo skewers first. Fill the hole and then put the screw back in.

Baldy · 06-15-2021, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Try bamboo skewers first. Fill the hole and then put the screw back in.

Great idea. Thanks!

Baldy · 06-17-2021, 12:10 PM

Made the trip to the storage yard today. Adjusted the threshold, hooked the curved transition to the lip on the threshold, and tightened the screws.

While I was working on this I looked at the inside of the door frame. I found a screw that went through the frame and into the threshold had come out. I could barely get my phillips screw driver on it, but did tighten it up.

Everything is solid now. Thanks for all the advice.

bobbecky · 06-17-2021, 08:53 PM

You will find that a #2 Robertson (square drive) screwdriver or bit fits those RV screws much better than a #2 Phillips screwdriver. If you don't already have an assortment of those type screwdrivers and bit, it will be an excellent investment and will make maintenance on your rig much easier.

**JRTJH** · 06-18-2021, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baldy

Made the trip to the storage yard today. Adjusted the threshold, hooked the curved transition to the lip on the threshold, and tightened the screws.

While I was working on this I looked at the inside of the door frame. I found a screw that went through the frame and into the threshold had come out. I could barely get my phillips screw driver on it, but did tighten it up.

Everything is solid now. Thanks for all the advice.

In an "awkward situation" like that, I think I'd use a screwdriver bit in a 1/4" socket on a small ratchet. That way you're working at a 90 degree angle and can get a much better "bite on the screw head"...

As mentioned, almost all of the screws in your trailer are #2 Robertson square drive. I think I've got 15 or 20 screwdrivers, bits, Apex holders and fittings stashed around the trailer in nearly every drawer and cupboard... They are almost a mandatory tool for any RV owner.

Baldy · 06-18-2021, 02:33 PM

Although I have dozens of screw driver bits in my traveling tool case, I could not find a #2 Robertson. So I spent a little time hunting in my basement workshop and found two of them which are now in my tool kit.

Thanks for taking the time to make that recommendation. I have a feeling it will save me on the road sometime.

Weldon · 06-20-2021, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbecky

You will find that a #2 Robertson (square drive) screwdriver or bit fits those RV screws much better than a #2 Phillips screwdriver. If you don't already have an assortment of those type screwdrivers and bit, it will be an excellent investment and will make maintenance on your rig much easier.

I camp with the Mrs. and my 8 yr old son and 10 yr old daughter. I hear "Dad, the ______ broke! Wasn't my fault!" all the time. Last trip my son leaned on the end of the dining table and pulled the screws out of the floor. Having these bits handy saves a lot of hassle. I have them for my drill, ratchet, and screwdriver. On a side note, my son is required to help me fix everything whether he wants to or not, unless the roof is involved. I don't understand how someone so agile on the football field can run into a stationary door frame or wall, but I don't trust him on the roof.

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