Can I use my Keystone trailer without 30a supply but with normal 115v supply

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by markcee

It's a 15K Dometic Brisk Air II. Looking it up it appears to draw 13 amps. Electrical dumba** here (obviously), but I'm assuming more when it kicks on? I do not try to run the bedroom 13.5 at the same time....although I did when I installed it...lol. They both ran for about 2 minutes and the house breaker tripped.

I must be (have been) really lucky. When we get ready for a trip that thing is on the entire period - sometimes a couple of days - that the trailer is sitting in front of the house. Obviously it is not running non stop, but this time of year we are already topping 100, so it's on a good majority of the time. I also do run the fridge on electric at the same time, as it takes a good couple days to get cold. At the very least I will switch that to propane.

I had an electrician I've used before come out for an estimate to install a 50 amp RV outlet about 6 months ago. I have a labor intensive wire run they will need to make and they quoted $1500. We thought about it and said 'hey, it's working fine on the garage outlet for what we need', so cheaped out and didn't do it. I always just figured worst case, the breaker would trip. I may have to rethink that now and at least get a 30 amp put in.

At least I am not using any home extension cords, hopefully that helps the cause. I have a 30 amp RV extension cord retained from our Class C and the 50 amp that came with the trailer. It's about a 50' run from the outlet to the RV.

As noted previously repeated heat damage can go unoticed until it's too late. Thw reak danger is when it happens inside a wall to the wireing or in an outlet where the electrician used the "push in" wire connections instead of the screws. You do what you want but I'd suggest you check your fire insurance policy.

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by markcee

...I had an electrician I've used before come out for an estimate to install a 50 amp RV outlet about 6 months ago. I have a labor intensive wire run they will need to make and they quoted $1500...

We were in the same boat with our new Raptor back in 2019. We wanted to run 3 AC units in Tucson, so we had to install a new 50A service (conduit & wires) and RV pedestal. BEST $1500 we have ever spent!

Seems to me like you are going to spend your $1500 in one of two ways: 1) cheap it out and burn up your AC compressor, only discovering it while preparing for or on a trip, then getting to deal with the repair at the worst possible moment, or 2) install a 50A service at the house and be able to run anything you want at any time (within the limits of a 50A service, or course).

I'd go for the new service if it was me!

[WDPatterson]

Originally Posted by markcee

Interesting....now that I'm looking, I see other articles stating it's ok. Definitely curious to dig into this more.

I have a 15amp circuit in the garage with little else on it. When getting ready for a trip, I've run the AC for hours on end connected to this circuit.

I run my 50 amp cord from TT, dogbone it to 30 amp RV extension cord and then step down again with a 15 amp dogbone to plug into the garage outlet.

When running any devices inside your trailer off of a outside electrical connection, always consider wattage. Amperage means nothing. Wattage means everything. How many watts does your air conditioner use?? If it's a 15000 BTU, it probably runs at 1300 to 1500 w. It's start up, though is going to have a spike. So, you have to have slow Breakers. Your fridge is probably going to pull around 600 W. If it's on propane, it's going to get its spark off of the 12-volt system.
I recommend the use of a meter which can be plugged into Outlets, and plug your Appliance into that meter. You'll find out what your wattage consumption is for each device, simply write them down, add them up, and you'll see what you consume at any given time. By the way, your water heater is going to use up about 1100 to 1500 watts, itself.
I highly recommend an adapter and extension cord that you can plug into a clothes dryer receptacle.
You'll be much less likely to trip a breaker, and much more likely to have everything run without burning up.

[JDDilly]

I have always plugged in to a 15amp circuit when at home. This has been with both 30 and 50 amp rigs. I only need to keep the battery charged and run the refrigerator. Never had an issue in 20+ years.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by WDPatterson

When running any devices inside your trailer off of a outside electrical connection, always consider wattage. Amperage means nothing. Wattage means everything. How many watts does your air conditioner use?? If it's a 15000 BTU, it probably runs at 1300 to 1500 w. It's start up, though is going to have a spike. So, you have to have slow Breakers. Your fridge is probably going to pull around 600 W. If it's on propane, it's going to get its spark off of the 12-volt system.
I recommend the use of a meter which can be plugged into Outlets, and plug your Appliance into that meter. You'll find out what your wattage consumption is for each device, simply write them down, add them up, and you'll see what you consume at any given time. By the way, your water heater is going to use up about 1100 to 1500 watts, itself.
I highly recommend an adapter and extension cord that you can plug into a clothes dryer receptacle.
You'll be much less likely to trip a breaker, and much more likely to have everything run without burning up.

Two issues with this. One, DO NOT PLUG INTO A DRYER OUTLET! Some old 30 amp dryer outlets are identical to a 30 amp RV outlet EXCEPT they are wired for 240 volts with a separate ground wire. You will burn up all electrical appliances if you do that.

Secondly, Amps and Watts are the same thing according to Ohm's Law, just 2 different ways of expressing it by using simple math. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

[Roper46]

So are there any negative effects from leaving the RV plugged into the house outlet all the time? Not talking about using the A/C, fridge or anything, just keeping the battery charged.

And if the battery disconnect switch is turned off to disconnect the battery, does the battery need to be kept charging in between trips? I understand some things will still be drawing 12v, but is it enough that the battery should remain on a constant charge?

[KJJ]

Watts = Volts times Amps. Amps are NOT the same thing as Watts: that thinking gets newbies into trouble when they try to compare 12V power to 115V power (never mind the AC vs DC part).

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Roper46

So are there any negative effects from leaving the RV plugged into the house outlet all the time? Not talking about using the A/C, fridge or anything, just keeping the battery charged.

And if the battery disconnect switch is turned off to disconnect the battery, does the battery need to be kept charging in between trips? I understand some things will still be drawing 12v, but is it enough that the battery should remain on a constant charge?

There should be no problems leaving the trailer plugged into a 15 amp outlet, PROVIDED that you do not attempt to turn on the air conditioner or the electric water heater. You'll have sufficient power to keep the converter/charger operational (maintain battery charge) and to operate the refrigerator.

As for the battery cutoff switch, leaving it OFF (battery disconnected) will stop all battery charging and the "phantom drains" will discharge the battery in as soon as 4 days. You can be sure that your battery will be "in the danger zone" (below 70% charge) within a week.

The only issue (not a problem) with leaving the battery cutoff switch connected is that there's a possibility, depending on the temperature, humidity and battery condition, that you could evaporate the electrolyte and wind up with a damaged battery, so I'd suggest a weekly check of the electrolyte level. Once you "learn how your rig responds to storage with power" then you can adjust your electrolyte level checks based on experience. Some people need to add water weekly, some monthly, some don't need to add water all summer long. When YOUR rig will require topping off the batteries is something that is very "rig specific".... So, check the batteries weekly, and adjust based on how your rig functions.

[Roper46]

Thanks John.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by KJJ

Watts = Volts times Amps. Amps are NOT the same thing as Watts: that thinking gets newbies into trouble when they try to compare 12V power to 115V power (never mind the AC vs DC part).

Apparently you didn't read, or understand the rest of my statement "just 2 different ways of expressing it by using simple math" or bothered to look at the link I posted.

[WDPatterson]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Two issues with this. One, DO NOT PLUG INTO A DRYER OUTLET! Some old 30 amp dryer outlets are identical to a 30 amp RV outlet EXCEPT they are wired for 240 volts with a separate ground wire. You will burn up all electrical appliances if you do that.

Secondly, Amps and Watts are the same thing according to Ohm's Law, just 2 different ways of expressing it by using simple math. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

Amps is flow, Watts is consumption... Voltage x Amps = Watts

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by WDPatterson

Amps is flow, Watts is consumption... Voltage x Amps = Watts

I'm getting tired. You cannot have a flow of electrons without it being consumed. 1 amp at 120 volts (1 X120) = 120 watts. 120 watts at 120 volts 120/120) = 1 amp. Therefore, the MATHEMATICAL EXPRESSIONS are equal. I never said 1 watt equals 1 amp.

Ohm's law can be expressed in a mathematical form:

V=IR
Where:
V = voltage expressed in Volts
I = current expressed in Amps
R = resistance expressed in Ohms
The formula can be manipulated so that if any two quantities are known the third can be calculated.

I=VR
R=VI

The two measurements are interchangable

[JRTJH]

Marshall is right, that said, why argue about watts vs amps vs volts????

BOTTOM LINE: If you plug a 30 amp RV 120 volt RV shore power cord into a "240 volt dryer outlet" you're going to smoke the whole damn trailer....

DO NOT DO THAT !!!!! (regardless of how "diversionary the watts vs amps argument" takes you away from the "critical mass") or the critical mass will become your CRITICAL MESS !!!!!!!!!

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Marshall is right, that said, why argue about watts vs amps vs volts????

BOTTOM LINE: If you plug a 30 amp RV 120 volt RV shore power cord into a "240 volt dryer outlet" you're going to smoke the whole damn trailer....

DO NOT DO THAT !!!!! (regardless of how "diversionary the watts vs amps argument" takes you away from the "critical mass") or the critical mass will become your CRITICAL MESS !!!!!!!!!

Very very true. Do not ever plug into a dryer receptacle no matter if you camper is 30 amp or 50 amp. A huge error!

Regarding the watt vs amp calculations it is usually less confusing for most people to speak in terms of amperage.