I would like to change the pull-out a/c power cord with the detachable power cord. Is there any placed to fine how to wire the receptacle for the detachable cord. Has anyone had this done. The trailer is a 2018 Springdale Summerland addition. The local dealer wants 350.00 plus parts.
It is pretty simple. The wiring instructions are included. You just have to know whether you have a 30A or 50A service (guessing 30A).
You just pull the cord out all the way, and cut the cord about a foot or so from the opening. Remove the "mouse hole door", install a Furrion or Marinco power inlet with hole adapter to make sure the mouse hole opening is covered ($35-$50). With a corrugated aluminum siding trailer, you will want to use a good quality Butyl Putty tapebetween the plate and the side of the camper. Then either buy a pre-made detachable cord ($85-$120) or an add-on end ($30-$45) to your cut existing cord and you are good to go.
This is kind of a crappy picture, but this is what it looked like when I did it on my Passport. My Cougar came with a detachable cord so I didn't have to do it this time around, but I would have if it hadn't.
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Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
On my trailer the area that the cord goes is in really small, is under a end type area between the recliners. Hard to get the cord back into the trailer.
I'm curious what is gained by doing this mod? Are you wanting to used the space the cord coiled into for other storage?
LOTS of beneficial gains with only a couple of not so beneficial costs....
First, if you've ever pushed that cord into the trailer during a rainstorm while parked on a dirt or muddy site, you know how much "stuff" gets pushed into your trailer cord storage bin. Once it starts smelling musty, you'll think back to that "soaking wet camp breakdown when everything was wet and muddy....
Second, if you've ever pushed the cord into that bin when it's cold and inflexible...
Third, if you've ever tried to pull the cord out of that bin and a "knot or kink" stops the cord from coming out after a couple of feet.....
Fourth, If you've ever had a wasp nest appear in that "always partly open mousehole" when the cap won't stay closed.....
Now, for the "disdavantages"...
First, You'll need to find another place to store the coiled up cord.
Second, you can't leave part of the cord inside the bin, it's all going to be "coiled up under the trailer connector or coiled up beside the campground pedestal...
I can't come up with any more "disadvantages right now, but for me, the plusses are significantly greater than the minuses.....
I would also add that when it is made detachable, the cord doesn't get yanked all the way out of the hole and cut off while sitting unattended in a storage lot.
Lastly, I have a 50A camper and that cord is a BEAST, so unless I know I am going to be under a heavy electrical load, I leave the 50A cord at home and simply use an adapter and a lighter 30A cord which can be coiled neatly into a milk crate. In fact, I can easily get a 30 ft and a 15 ft cord in a milk crate with room to spare in the center for other small odds and ends.
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Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
I would also add that when it is made detachable, the cord doesn't get yanked all the way out of the hole and cut off while sitting unattended in a storage lot.
Lastly, I have a 50A camper and that cord is a BEAST, so unless I know I am going to be under a heavy electrical load, I leave the 50A cord at home and simply use an adapter and a lighter 30A cord which can be coiled neatly into a milk crate. In fact, I can easily get a 30 ft and a 15 ft cord in a milk crate with room to spare in the center for other small odds and ends.
Well that beast can easily be tamed! I replaced my 25' PVC insulated 50 amp power cord with a 40' 6/4 SOOW power cord. the 6/4 rubber insulated cord is used in the construction industry for temporary power, and in building for large draw drop cords. It is lighter and far more flexible than PVC insulated cord. I store our in a 3 gallon bucket, along with a 50 to 30 amp dog bone. In addition this cord remains flexible in temperatures below freezing.
The last picture my hand is for scale, not holding the cord in the bucket.
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Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360 Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
Russell, thank you for that! The 50A cord really is such a PITA and your idea is a game changer for me. My 30A cords are all SOOW so I am not sure why I hadn't thought of changing out the 50A cord. Makes perfect sense though!
Did you find one pre-made, or did you buy the cord and add the ends?
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Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
Russell, thank you for that! The 50A cord really is such a PITA and your idea is a game changer for me. My 30A cords are all SOOW so I am not sure why I hadn't thought of changing out the 50A cord. Makes perfect sense though!
Did you find one pre-made, or did you buy the cord and add the ends?
Bought the cable and ends, and made my own. I also made a 23’ extension for when”camping” at my daughters.
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Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360 Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
I just ordered a 40’ cord from Windy Nation. New customers get $15 off and orders $30+ get free shipping. I went with 6/4 for my 50A service but they have other sizes if you want/need a 30A cord. Stick with the SOOW not the SJOOW.
I made a ~60 ft cord for mine to reach my shop panel when I have it parked in the driveway. I just used a 6/6 SO cord I bought at Lowes. Stuff is very expensive now. I carry it with me in case my 35' isn't long enough somewhere.
I would also add that when it is made detachable, the cord doesn't get yanked all the way out of the hole and cut off while sitting unattended in a storage lot.
NH_Bulldog is 100% correct. Arrived in the spring to find "mouse hole door" open and just a nub of my cord left. Fortunately the thief left enough for me to attach the port and effect repairs.
I think the $350 + parts your dealer wants to charge just means he doesn't want to do it. Pretty simple fix.
consider going with a Smart Plug. You can buy the complete kit that has the female part that replaces the original plug housing on the camper, as well as the new plug end for your cord. Easy to plug in and has 2 secure locking tabs. I've installed on our last 2 campers with 30 amp service.
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