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10-30-2024, 04:57 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Millsboro
Posts: 21
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Thanks, Rob and Amy!
Ordered the correct one.
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10-30-2024, 02:16 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Henniker
Posts: 3,339
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Now, the next step is to be sure to get the proper size cables, in-line fuse and disconnect switch.
__________________
Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
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10-30-2024, 03:00 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Millsboro
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog
Now, the next step is to be sure to get the proper size cables, in-line fuse and disconnect switch.
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1/0 awg with a 200-250 mega fuse?
This type is disconnect?
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Water...s%2C103&sr=8-8
We have one for the battery
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10-30-2024, 04:16 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Henniker
Posts: 3,339
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I would use the 275A disconnect and a 250A ANL fuse. 1/0 cable is good as long as your run is under 3 ft inclusive of the cables between the batteries all the way through the disconnect, fuse and to the inverter. Otherwise, if over 3 ft you would need to bump up to 2/0 to be safe.
__________________
Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
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10-30-2024, 04:31 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog
That one (RNG-INVT-2000-12V-P2-US) doesn’t have passthrough capability or a transfer switch, so installation and operation is going to be more expensive and complicated than other models. As long as you don’t mind spending the extra money for everything else that is needed, have the required electrical knowledge to wire it all correctly and understand the limitations with both the operation of that unit and where/how you can/cannot mount it, you should be ok.
If I were to pick a Renogy inverter for plug and play capability, I would choose the Renogy RIV1220PU-126-US model (it is only $80 more) and comes with an built in automatic transfer switch and has AC passthrough.
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I'll have to look that one up for my self.. I see they make the exact same thing and put a CDN on the end instead of a US, but still cheaper than the one I am looking at, Just trying to figure out if I want the the converter/charger for the camper or if I cne get away with just a transfer switch and inverter combo.
this is what I am planing on getting right now
https://ca.renogy.com/2000w-12v-pure...w-lcd-display/
__________________
2014 F350 Platinum
2016 Cougar RBK330
1991 Slumber queen 100WS
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10-30-2024, 04:56 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Henniker
Posts: 3,339
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The converter/charger is not for everyone. For example, my converter is almost to the back of the RV while the batteries are at the front, with that distance, the size and length of the wires/cables needed plus figuring out how/where to run them would be cost prohibitive at best.
__________________
Rob & Amy
2024 Cougar 29BHL
2022 Ford F250 7.3L Godzilla Crew Cab FX4
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10-31-2024, 05:57 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Hartsville
Posts: 292
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Your two 200HA batteries will not run your AC. Do you have any solar?
__________________
2023 Cougar 23MLE
2022 Ford F-250 with 6.2 L
Hartsville, Tenn.
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11-01-2024, 05:04 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog
The converter/charger is not for everyone. For example, my converter is almost to the back of the RV while the batteries are at the front, with that distance, the size and length of the wires/cables needed plus figuring out how/where to run them would be cost prohibitive at best.
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ya My 5th is going to be the same, but this is for my truck camper, until I realy got into putting the LifePO4 battery in their I didn't realize my converter was Li capable so I was able to switch that over with a jumper.. but now I want to add 120V power to the camper so we need an inverter. I liked the charger/converter I linked to because of how it is able to be set up in a custom Li mode where it will charge to what ever voltge you say to so you can say 100% (14.6V) then it shuts off all charge untill the battery reaches the lower limit that you set so maybe 12.1V (just picking numbers) so there is no float volatage going to the batery at all, charges and shuts off then your camper runs off 12V. this would let me leave it plugged in all year to keep the fridge running and such with out having to float the battery. when I am camping I can set the output on my solar and use that for actual camping and have 120V available as a side bonus.
__________________
2014 F350 Platinum
2016 Cougar RBK330
1991 Slumber queen 100WS
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11-03-2024, 03:11 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 636
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You’re not going to run much AC with that setup of batteries. Plus the AC isn’t wired into the inverter ready plugs and circuit.
What you’re wanting will require more than just a Multiplus 2 and 200AH or 400AH of batteries to run an AC.
Running other stuff could work. You need to gather power Watts & Amps of everything you plan to use Boondocking and you’ll get an idea of how many amp hours you’ll need.
How do you plan to recharge the batteries? If no solar then you’ll carefully plan and manage power usage.
__________________
2020 Cougar Half Ton 29RKS Fifth Wheel
2019 F350 4WD Lariat SRW 6.7 Diesel SD
Anderson Ultimate 5th Hitch - JT Strongarm TST509 TPMS- 2200W(8)Solar Panels - 800AH BattleBorn Batteries. 3000W Victron MultiPlus II Inv. SoftStartRV on 2 AC’s - Predator 3500 generator Airlift 5000 bags
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11-04-2024, 05:49 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Millsboro
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cougar23
Your two 200HA batteries will not run your AC. Do you have any solar?
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Only 220 in solar.
We will be hooking up everything this week for a trip next week. We've given up the idea of running the ac in the summer. We do have a generator and some fans.
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11-04-2024, 07:09 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: jackson
Posts: 1,317
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Since you are going on a trip you'll learn a lot 'based on inconvenience'. Meaning although you have a generator I'd recommend trying to live without it (coffee pots, cooking, fans, tv/gismos, etc) and just take note of the things you "can't do" unless you start it up. Additionally what outlets you would "like to use" but can not, etc. At the same time keeping track of you battery reserves.
In our case, we have it that we can basically have a great/complete camping trip indefinitely with AGM batteries and no generator as long as we don't need the AC.
However, for us, 220W on the roof wouldn't be enough to sustain this (and we increased that). So we take the generator and only use it when the AC needs to run...and we are not on shore power.
__________________
JXNBBL (Jay)
Jackson, NH
2021 Keystone 330BHS
2023 Ram 3500 6.7L diesel, 3.73 ratio
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11-04-2024, 07:21 AM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Millsboro
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jxnbbl
Since you are going on a trip you'll learn a lot 'based on inconvenience'. Meaning although you have a generator I'd recommend trying to live without it (coffee pots, cooking, fans, tv/gismos, etc) and just take note of the things you "can't do" unless you start it up. Additionally what outlets you would "like to use" but can not, etc. At the same time keeping track of you battery reserves.
In our case, we have it that we can basically have a great/complete camping trip indefinitely with AGM batteries and no generator as long as we don't need the AC.
However, for us, 220W on the roof wouldn't be enough to sustain this (and we increased that). So we take the generator and only use it when the AC needs to run...and we are not on shore power.
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We like how there are so many available camping spots when we don't need shore power.
I like your idea of stepping out down to see what we can do without.
After doing research, we would need a lot more battery and solar power to run the ac. The video I posted in my initial post, shows how to run these things without an elaborate setup. Any thoughts on his method?
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11-04-2024, 08:02 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: jackson
Posts: 1,317
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Yes, I did look at that video but if I remember correctly....how that was hooked up was with an inverter/charger which was basically replaced the converter in the power system. Its a little more elaborate than we need. Basically with out initial use/calculations with mix of good/bad weather/partial shade sites here and there, etc we calculated out we need about 340W or so on the roof and 2 batteries (lithium would be better but we just opted for agm at first and and have not had problems. We expanded out roof to 510W after the initial 340W "just in case"...and redid a little electrical side so we don't need extension cords between a "solar outlet" and a device. The only thing we have NOT done on the wish list is to rewire the outlets so that the beverage fridge could be solar or not.
The one item that was brought up is that you can supplement the "use of power" with the solar. For instance, if we have to use the AC, and there is only 15-20A of service available or our small 2500 generator...I plug it in to run the AC but turn off the breaker to the Solar circuit and then everything as the generator does not drive the stuff off the inverter.
__________________
JXNBBL (Jay)
Jackson, NH
2021 Keystone 330BHS
2023 Ram 3500 6.7L diesel, 3.73 ratio
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