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Old 02-28-2021, 02:43 PM   #1
Cbrez
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PEX Pipe

I need to replace the angle stop valves for my low point drains. The hot water side won’t open and they’re both pretty crummy.

I can remove the crimped fittings without much trouble. My question is how to get the existing valves out without damaging the PEX. Most videos show using a heat gun or torch to heat up the PEX, but in every video I’ve watched the are not reusing the PEX, just the fitting.

If I use a heat gun to remove the angle stops, can I reuse the existing PEX or will I need to install new?
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Old 03-01-2021, 03:04 AM   #2
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Steve, what you have at best is a crap shoot. You 'might' find that once the bands are cut that the valves will come out. At least give it a try. Personally I would not like to reuse the same little section of Pex line. "You pays your money, you takes your chances."
I would trim the least amount possible, replace the valves with a quality product and then use a best quality hose clamp rather than another band.
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:14 AM   #3
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I would not attempt to heat the pipe and then reuse it. if you are replacing the valve, then simply cut the PEX and fit the new valve. If you are having problems with the existing valve, then definitely get a different kind.

About crimpling? When I installed my Bidet on the toilet, I had to deal with the crimping issues. Talking to my dealership parts department, they gave me the compression fittings, that simply screw on. You insert the PEX pipe, and screw the outer ring. I had my reservations, but it was easy, quick, and has held up, and not a drop of leak.

Anyway, this is an alternative. But I would not reuse a heated plastic pipe.

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Old 03-01-2021, 07:24 AM   #4
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I would not reuse a heated PEX pipe, nor would I use a worm gear hose clamp on a PEX line. Most worm gear hose clamps will strip out the openings on the clamp before tightening the PEX line enough to effectively not leak (especially over time). I would use compression fitting like "Shark Bite" or other brands that are designed for use on PEX.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
Steve, what you have at best is a crap shoot. You 'might' find that once the bands are cut that the valves will come out. At least give it a try. Personally I would not like to reuse the same little section of Pex line. "You pays your money, you takes your chances."
I would trim the least amount possible, replace the valves with a quality product and then use a best quality hose clamp rather than another band.
X2 with Jim
depends on how easily they come off with how much heat. If they're distorted you will need to cut back a little.
Good luck
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:21 AM   #6
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From my experience those type of pex crimp clamps aren't easily removed without some pipe damage.
I agree with dutchman, get the compression fittings or Shark Bite fittings or have to buy the crimper & clamps.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:47 AM   #7
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Thanks very much for your responses. The new angle stops I ordered are compression fittings so even though I have aluminum crimp rings and a crimper, I won’t be needing them for the install.

I wanted to avoid cutting the existing pipe since there is not much protruding thru the wall, but you all have convinced me otherwise. Thanks again for your advice.
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:35 AM   #8
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I should have been more clear in my description of quality hose clamp. Similar to ABA mini heavy duty is better than a worm gear, but the good quality worm gear will suffice, just not the best solution.
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Old 03-01-2021, 07:19 PM   #9
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This is $22 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and the stainless steel clamps from Lowes, a ten pack are $5.50 https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182819
I plumbed an entire cabin with PEX using the crimp tool and it worked great and makes a perfect joint every time, and once you have it, the only expense will be for clamps and the various fittings.
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Old 03-11-2021, 08:16 AM   #10
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Sharkbite fittings are your best solution. HD has a good selection including valves.
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Old 03-14-2021, 09:22 AM   #11
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In my Alpine it is easy to take out a piece of the bulkhead (basement wall) to get to the other end of the PEX lines going to the drains. I would cut the clamps at the end opposite the valves you want to replace and put in new pieces of PEX with the new valves. The PEX tubing and tools aren't expensive. I am thinking about doing this myself as I don't care for the way the drain valves work.
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Old 03-14-2021, 11:54 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_T View Post
In my Alpine it is easy to take out a piece of the bulkhead (basement wall) to get to the other end of the PEX lines going to the drains. I would cut the clamps at the end opposite the valves you want to replace and put in new pieces of PEX with the new valves. The PEX tubing and tools aren't expensive. I am thinking about doing this myself as I don't care for the way the drain valves work.
I would recommend, if you're going to that length, take a look at the plastic fittings used on your PEX plumbing. IMHO, those plastic elbows and Tee's are the weakest link in the entire Keystone plumbing systems. As I get around to it, I'm replacing most of the "bent and twisted through cabinets" PEX in my trailer. My intention is to re-route the PEX so it doesn't vibrate and kink through the holes Keystone used to get it from one location to another. Already, I've had 2 or 3 plastic fittings break as I pull or push on the PEX. So, I'm replacing all of them with brass "house type" fittings as I'm working on the PEX. It's a bit more expensive than using plastic fittings, but all told, even at "retired rates of $10 an hour" I can save a bunch of money by not having to spend 2 hours digging back into a remote location to change out a broken plastic fitting.... YMMV
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Old 03-14-2021, 05:38 PM   #13
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Feb 2021

We connected the city water to the rv and water started spraying and running out of the side of the rv. We were so fortunate that we camped next to Craig who was retired from 40 years in the US Army. He was a helicopter pilot and also worked in the repairing and test flying. He came over and and ask if I took the panel off to see what was going on.

I took it off we turned the water back on and it was spraying out of the 45 degree plastic connection that was running from the pex tube. We took a picture of the connection and I went to Camping World. The person in parts went back and found the exact piece, which he said was on a shelf behind a box and gave it to me for free.

Craig told me to buy the pex tool and pex rings which I did. Getting the pex ring off he cut it off without damaging the pex tube. Getting the tube off of the fitting was done heating it up just a little with a lighter that had an extension just enough to let it slip off.

It was my idea to heat it up, we tested it on a piece of pex that he had and it and it did not ruin the pex at all. So our problem was fixed with a few trips to get the pex tool, rings and an awesome new friend.
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:38 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I would recommend, if you're going to that length, take a look at the plastic fittings used on your PEX plumbing. IMHO, those plastic elbows and Tee's are the weakest link in the entire Keystone plumbing systems. As I get around to it, I'm replacing most of the "bent and twisted through cabinets" PEX in my trailer. My intention is to re-route the PEX so it doesn't vibrate and kink through the holes Keystone used to get it from one location to another. Already, I've had 2 or 3 plastic fittings break as I pull or push on the PEX. So, I'm replacing all of them with brass "house type" fittings as I'm working on the PEX. It's a bit more expensive than using plastic fittings, but all told, even at "retired rates of $10 an hour" I can save a bunch of money by not having to spend 2 hours digging back into a remote location to change out a broken plastic fitting.... YMMV
I am thinking about doing this. The tubes and valves I want to replace terminate to a manifold of sorts made from a bunch of tees with elbows on the ends. I will need to replace at least a dozen tees and a few elbows.

Do you know if I need to be concerned with no lead fittings versus unlabeled fittings? I have been careful to buy no lead drinking water safe fittings but I wonder if all brass PEX fittings are safe?
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:52 AM   #15
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-P...301923898-_-N&

This is your best friend when working PEX
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